As the title kind of says, trying to build a base for my speakers, needs to be very low cost and heavy, was thinking of casting dyed sement/concrete, anyone have any idead or advice?
Make mold from plywood or Sonotube, and pour in concrete. Design the mold so it takes exactly half bag of 'ready mix.'
Or make base mold part of loudspeaker, so it can also hold sand as a first option, before you pour in concrete.
Or make base mold part of loudspeaker, so it can also hold sand as a first option, before you pour in concrete.
It's a tower, about 1m tall, front is about 19cm wide, rear about 7cm, curved sides.
Has three 8mm female threads inserted into the base - two at the front and one at the rear.
Bass port at the bottom - was using spikes to hold the bottom of the speaker approximately 1" of the floor, so if I make a plinth it'll maintain this gap.
Current thoughts are either to cast 100mm M8 threaded bolts into the base, giving a cement base about 7.5cm thick, which will add a lot of weight and hopefully stability.
other options I can think of are expensive...
Has three 8mm female threads inserted into the base - two at the front and one at the rear.
Bass port at the bottom - was using spikes to hold the bottom of the speaker approximately 1" of the floor, so if I make a plinth it'll maintain this gap.
Current thoughts are either to cast 100mm M8 threaded bolts into the base, giving a cement base about 7.5cm thick, which will add a lot of weight and hopefully stability.
other options I can think of are expensive...
So, it is already designed and built?
Fwiw, I'd put the concrete inside the box, unless it is already built. Assuming you
want weight, not a wide base... and fwiw, I do not like downward facing ports, they
become too dependent on the floor material, and the height above the floor. YMMV.
1m is not terribly tall at all... so unless you need a tiny footprint, a wider wood base or other material (even case concrete or gypsum) will work
Fwiw, I'd put the concrete inside the box, unless it is already built. Assuming you
want weight, not a wide base... and fwiw, I do not like downward facing ports, they
become too dependent on the floor material, and the height above the floor. YMMV.
1m is not terribly tall at all... so unless you need a tiny footprint, a wider wood base or other material (even case concrete or gypsum) will work
Go to a local metal shop. Ask to buy 2 pieces of aluminum that measure 18" ×18" × 1/4" . Take them home and slightly radius all 4 edges of one side. Then, take some metal polish and shine that side up.
After that, bolt to bottom of speaker ( long bolts and spacers)and enjoy.
After that, bolt to bottom of speaker ( long bolts and spacers)and enjoy.
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FWIW, I've made my own, but precast concrete slabs in various size are available relatively cheap nowadays: https://www.google.com/search?q=pre...&ved=0ahUKEwij0emWv7vPAhVK6yYKHcT_AlcQsAQIogE
GM
GM
Yeah they're already made. I think a large part of the problem comes from having a single spike at the back, centre of gravity is pretty high and near the front of the speaker, so they topple easily.
I was thinking casting so I could cast M8 bolts directly into the concrete, or holes so the concrete can bolt directly to the base, wider base and heavy so they cant knock over.
Putting further thought into it, I'm starting to think that maybe cutting out a more aesthetically pleasing shape from a lump of mdf may be a better idea, then I can have two "prongs" at the back to stop it toppling over... probably a better idea. and some kind of non-spike based feet would help, marking floors isn't cool
I was thinking casting so I could cast M8 bolts directly into the concrete, or holes so the concrete can bolt directly to the base, wider base and heavy so they cant knock over.
Putting further thought into it, I'm starting to think that maybe cutting out a more aesthetically pleasing shape from a lump of mdf may be a better idea, then I can have two "prongs" at the back to stop it toppling over... probably a better idea. and some kind of non-spike based feet would help, marking floors isn't cool
Agreed, however many layers of MDF it takes to ~match >50% of the speaker's weight is much easier to make, decorate with molding, etc., or just 'staircase' tapered. The finest looking 'marble' roman column/plinths I've seen were realistically painted MDF construction.
Industrial grade Velcro holds quite tenaciously BTW, so good that I've had to use a flat blade crowbar to pry them loose in some cases, so generally just use tabs of it rather than a continuous bead. Product/whatever trade show booth assembly, displays rely heavily on it.
GM
Industrial grade Velcro holds quite tenaciously BTW, so good that I've had to use a flat blade crowbar to pry them loose in some cases, so generally just use tabs of it rather than a continuous bead. Product/whatever trade show booth assembly, displays rely heavily on it.
GM
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Ok, so here are some pictures of the cab and the base.
Am I right thinking there's a general agreement that a thick MDF Base is the way to go?
Also, If I want to avoid using spikes, what other ways are there to have the cab on the floor? reall it should be off the floor, or the bass port won't work at all...
Am I right thinking there's a general agreement that a thick MDF Base is the way to go?
Also, If I want to avoid using spikes, what other ways are there to have the cab on the floor? reall it should be off the floor, or the bass port won't work at all...
Attachments
Well, the way I've done it is to either use large dowels [typically closet rod] to space up/attach the speaker to the plinth or threaded rod inside copper or alum. pipe spacers with the appropriate hardware to preload/cinch them down on taller and/or heavier speakers. The plinths of course can have spikes for carpet or anti-skid material for hard[wood], etc., floors.
GM
GM
buy a 3/8" or so thick piece of steel.
Drill holes in the proper locations, run flat head bolts of the thread size that in the spikes,
a nut between the steel plate and the screw on the bottom, one to the speaker. Done.
Or a bit of tubing as a spacer... I like the nuts...
Paint is good.
If ur worried about ringing, then coat with truck underbody stuff, or use suitable adhesive on the bottom to hold a carpet square (they come with soft rubber backs) to the bottom... or the topside or both, etc... rubber will work to.
Steel is heavy.
_-_-bear
Drill holes in the proper locations, run flat head bolts of the thread size that in the spikes,
a nut between the steel plate and the screw on the bottom, one to the speaker. Done.
Or a bit of tubing as a spacer... I like the nuts...
Paint is good.
If ur worried about ringing, then coat with truck underbody stuff, or use suitable adhesive on the bottom to hold a carpet square (they come with soft rubber backs) to the bottom... or the topside or both, etc... rubber will work to.
Steel is heavy.
_-_-bear
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Steel would be a great choice but there's some large bass inductors in the base of the speakers, whilst I doubt that putting a lump of steel next to them would effect the inductance at all, I'd rather not risk it - plus, budget contraints!
I'm planning on building a big base out of MDF, cheapest fastest solution I could find so... yeah.
I'm planning on building a big base out of MDF, cheapest fastest solution I could find so... yeah.
Steel is very cheap.
Find a metal fab shop, their dumpster is full.
MDF is not heavy... you'll have to go wider due to the low mass.
I'd go back to the lump-o-concrete... the good part is that you can do more than
one casting, if the first few aren't quite good.
Suggest straight portland cement and get a very fine aggregate - sandbox sand or finer. I used very very fine white quartz. The aggregate MUST be 'washed', no impurities, no dirt, no salt. So, buy stuff from a shop that sells it, not a big box store... most small cities have more than one supply company for this stuff. A few phone calls and web searches will do the trick.
The other source are "ceramics" supply houses, the ones that support pottery. They have neat stuff for casting!! Absolutely indestructable.
Same techniques as with portland apply.
_-_-
Find a metal fab shop, their dumpster is full.
MDF is not heavy... you'll have to go wider due to the low mass.
I'd go back to the lump-o-concrete... the good part is that you can do more than
one casting, if the first few aren't quite good.
Suggest straight portland cement and get a very fine aggregate - sandbox sand or finer. I used very very fine white quartz. The aggregate MUST be 'washed', no impurities, no dirt, no salt. So, buy stuff from a shop that sells it, not a big box store... most small cities have more than one supply company for this stuff. A few phone calls and web searches will do the trick.
The other source are "ceramics" supply houses, the ones that support pottery. They have neat stuff for casting!! Absolutely indestructable.
Same techniques as with portland apply.
_-_-
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As you have nuts installed in the bottom of the speakers, use those.
Make an plinth to be held off the floor by felt pads or similar feet. Fit T nuts or inserts into the plinth and use threaded rod to joint plinth to speaker cab. Use 2 extra nuts per rod to tighten against the inserts at both ends. Fill with whatever heavy and dense filling seems appropriate.
Make the plinth circular or with as few toe-stabbing bits as possible. Probably with a generous angle and/or round-over.
J.
Make an plinth to be held off the floor by felt pads or similar feet. Fit T nuts or inserts into the plinth and use threaded rod to joint plinth to speaker cab. Use 2 extra nuts per rod to tighten against the inserts at both ends. Fill with whatever heavy and dense filling seems appropriate.
Make the plinth circular or with as few toe-stabbing bits as possible. Probably with a generous angle and/or round-over.
J.
Get hold of a pair of the biggest brake discs you can find and spray them. Heavy and with bolt holes already drilled. Try a scrap yard.
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