i can't seem to figure out how, with any series or parallel combination i can come up with make four 16 ohm drivers produce a 1 ohm load?
please elaborate on how this is done.
please elaborate on how this is done.
we both know that, but i'm interested in how the OP plans to get a 1 ohm load with 4 16 ohm drivers?
I want a 4 ohm load not a 1 ohm load lol. Nobody seriously knows of any 3.5-4 inch full range that can take -40-60Wrms?
re: driver placement in a car audio install - simply put, I think many of the "standard conventions" in which we place so much faith when obsessing over design of a home audio system can be - much like the tuning characteristics of one of the most frequently used enclosures (front doors ) -thrown out the window - e.g. when they're rolled down
Yeah, it's an interesting and new set of challenges/compromises which is why I've kind of tried bowing out of the thread a few times in the hopes a car audio nut would chime in and clear up a few things?
well there's an alarming trend in car audio for amps that are stable at 2 ohm's for subs and many are caught up in the belief that halfing the impedance magically doubles the wattage out of the amp.
all too many times the over simplification that the load has to be rated to handle the max wattage that the amp will deliver neglects things like sensitivity (or frenquency range of interest)
i was merely trying to ensure your not guided by mis-information (which was possible given that as "stated" there seemed to be a misunderstanding of Ohm's law)
all too many times the over simplification that the load has to be rated to handle the max wattage that the amp will deliver neglects things like sensitivity (or frenquency range of interest)
i was merely trying to ensure your not guided by mis-information (which was possible given that as "stated" there seemed to be a misunderstanding of Ohm's law)
Well, there is a dedicated thread for Car Audio - although in my brief forays there they seem to be mostly concerned with the source / signal processing and power end of the equation.
In a previous lifetime, I was interested enough in attempting to achieve some measure of decent sound in several different vehicles, and benefited from some excellent advice from a very experienced car installer / home speaker repair tech. This is where I saw for more than 20 yrs a pattern of damage to both drivers and crossovers, which was often a combination of amplifier clipping and prolonged excessive SPLs, - not surprising when you consider the substantially higher noise floor when the vehicle is not stationary for demonstration purposes (I've measured road / wind noise of well over 60dB at highway speed of 90kmh in my little truck). That, the harsh physical environment - heat / humidity swings far in excess of most home environs , and UV exposure on dash and rear deck mount locations - and the concussive force of slamming the front doors in which at least the woofers and sometimes midrange drivers of multi-way speaker systems installed is where my trepidation at using full range drivers arises from.
but then as my wife reminds me, I often obsess over irrelevant minutia while remaining oblivious to the significant - maybe the psych majors here can pin a label on that for me 😉
Hmm, 5-13 kHz you're better off using a 1" 16 ohm compression driver on a small WG like I did back in '69 for my then new El Camino.
GM
GM
Dave, I'm going to design a soundbar (LCR) and have narrowed down the driver choices to be either Alpair 5.2 or 6.2 and would love to get your comments on how these two compare.
Current plan is to use a "1.5 way" per channel where I'll have 2 physical drivers with one operating full-range and the second with a low-pass filter to reduce overall excursion, distortion and improve power handling. Due to overall size limitations, it doesn't look like I could use Alpair 7.3 or Pruvia 7.
We actually built a sound bar with A6.2p. His wife disliked the bar so he ended up with individual cabinets (if anyone wants the sound bar enclosure, come pick it up 🙂)
The A5.2 doesn't go as low but would also work. With the often heavy lifting in HT the A6.2 might be a better choice (and i personally tend to prefer the paper (no paper A5.2 yet)).
dave
The A5.2 doesn't go as low but would also work. With the often heavy lifting in HT the A6.2 might be a better choice (and i personally tend to prefer the paper (no paper A5.2 yet)).
dave
Excellent, thanks for the feedback. The A6.2p was my initial thought given my space constraints and HT demands (not going into a huge room or THX SPL's), but the A5.2 1.5 config would allow an even smaller enclosure while potentially giving a better top end. Good point about the paper, I prefer them as well in a FR driver; think I'll stick with the A6.2p
I can get the A6 into 2.5 litre (what we used, 3 uMar-Ken6). The 5.2 can be squeezed into 1.5 litre
dave
dave
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