I'm new to this full-range stuff, but it seems like a great thing to try - no need for crossovers, right? So, just giving a quick look at the Fostex range of drivers, the FE Sigma jump out at me as the ones to try. I'd like to try the 8" FE208EZ - but I'm worried about the high-end response. What is the collective wisdom around here as far as pros and cons between the FE168EZ (6.5" Sigma) and the above mentioned FE208EZ? Also, for whichever full-range driver I end up using - do I still follow the same equations for box volume as if I were building a regular 2-way or 3-way? I've built two sets of 2-ways in the past, one using the now-discontinued 8" Aerogels (below right) and the other using 7" Scan-Speaks (below left). Thanks!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The FE208ESigma is a Wide Range rather than a Full Range driver and is all the better for it IMHO. Rather than trying to do everything, Fostex concentrated on getting the LF & midrange as good as they could, and left the HF for drivers intrinsically better able to deal with it, i.e. supertweeters.
Kill zone for FR drivers is the midband -there are numerous definitions; best is still Bell Labs classification as ~200Hz - 4Khz. If you can push crossovers above and below this region, they are a) less obvious, and b) can be much simpler. The 208 is best crossed over to a supertweeter at roughly 10KHz -just capped off, & dialled in with an Lpad is fine. Most people, if it's loaded right, will be happy with the LF performance; those who aren't can add subwoofers to deal with everything below 40Hz.
I wouldn't be sticking them in regular BR boxes though. You'll get better results from different types of cabinets.
Kill zone for FR drivers is the midband -there are numerous definitions; best is still Bell Labs classification as ~200Hz - 4Khz. If you can push crossovers above and below this region, they are a) less obvious, and b) can be much simpler. The 208 is best crossed over to a supertweeter at roughly 10KHz -just capped off, & dialled in with an Lpad is fine. Most people, if it's loaded right, will be happy with the LF performance; those who aren't can add subwoofers to deal with everything below 40Hz.
I wouldn't be sticking them in regular BR boxes though. You'll get better results from different types of cabinets.
moai.
there is am old japanese design using the 168EZ which adds a super tweeter (t96) AND two woofers in a separate cabinet. reputed performance is extremely good. suitable for use as a studio monitor even I think.
the 208EZ works well with a ribbon crossed in lower, around 5k or horn supertweet at 10 or thereabouts. think BIB. I am...
others in this forum have more experience with such. though. contact daniel mason. dmason.
the fostex sigma drivers are a good place to start and end the search for single driver exstacy. performance, refinement beyond their means.
Good luck!
Clark
blumenstein-ultra-fi.com
there is am old japanese design using the 168EZ which adds a super tweeter (t96) AND two woofers in a separate cabinet. reputed performance is extremely good. suitable for use as a studio monitor even I think.
the 208EZ works well with a ribbon crossed in lower, around 5k or horn supertweet at 10 or thereabouts. think BIB. I am...
others in this forum have more experience with such. though. contact daniel mason. dmason.
the fostex sigma drivers are a good place to start and end the search for single driver exstacy. performance, refinement beyond their means.
Good luck!
Clark
blumenstein-ultra-fi.com
Go for the wide range and not the full range driver - I agree with Scottmouse.
In my experience full range is difficult to achieve to a good enough standard. Wide range covering mid and lower treble and upper base is very achievable and can providen a very clear midrange.
I use a 5" wide range mid driver with no crossover. I find 5" about the best size for providing detail in the music. I find some detail is lost as the mid speaker gets bigger than 5". I augment my midrange with a 10" base unit with a single phase crossover on the base unit only and I use a high tweeter with a single phase crossover on the treble unit onky. As said earlier no crossover on ther mid unit.
I use sealed boxes of about the size you would expect. However as the mid range is now so detailed and clear I find it important to make the mid box VERY rigid.
Let us know what you buy amd I hope you enjoy them.
Don
In my experience full range is difficult to achieve to a good enough standard. Wide range covering mid and lower treble and upper base is very achievable and can providen a very clear midrange.
I use a 5" wide range mid driver with no crossover. I find 5" about the best size for providing detail in the music. I find some detail is lost as the mid speaker gets bigger than 5". I augment my midrange with a 10" base unit with a single phase crossover on the base unit only and I use a high tweeter with a single phase crossover on the treble unit onky. As said earlier no crossover on ther mid unit.
I use sealed boxes of about the size you would expect. However as the mid range is now so detailed and clear I find it important to make the mid box VERY rigid.
Let us know what you buy amd I hope you enjoy them.
Don
Thanks, for the advice guys. This won't be a project I start for several months, while I am getting ready for a move. However, I like to start thinking about these things well in advance. I may end up going with the FE168EZ, based on your comments. I just need to figure out which tweeter. I'm not sure I can still get the Focals, which I really love.
Hi
Ideally you need to match the natural role off of the tweeter with natural role of the mid range. Otherwise design a single phase filter ( check the role off on the mid range to decide the best filter angle but I think you will find it is a single phase ) to add to the tweeter to match the role of on the mid range. If the tweeter you like goes low enough use that with a filter and then add resistors to obtain the amount of treble augmentation you need - my guess is very little.
Don
Ideally you need to match the natural role off of the tweeter with natural role of the mid range. Otherwise design a single phase filter ( check the role off on the mid range to decide the best filter angle but I think you will find it is a single phase ) to add to the tweeter to match the role of on the mid range. If the tweeter you like goes low enough use that with a filter and then add resistors to obtain the amount of treble augmentation you need - my guess is very little.
Don
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