I have a very important Question,
For some Wild and Unknown reason, my DAC/Pre-Amp does NOT have a Pre-Out to clone its unamplified signal, and my Carver TFM-35 amp doesn't have pre-out to clone the signal from DAC,
How can I make my own signal splitter so that i could split the audio signal coming from my DAC to go into 2 different amps for example ??
Because when I plug-in my headphones into my DAC, then I have only 1 more output left, and I need at least 2 outputs so I can connect 2x amps for 4 speakers total
Is there a specific adapter already made that I can buy ?
For some Wild and Unknown reason, my DAC/Pre-Amp does NOT have a Pre-Out to clone its unamplified signal, and my Carver TFM-35 amp doesn't have pre-out to clone the signal from DAC,
How can I make my own signal splitter so that i could split the audio signal coming from my DAC to go into 2 different amps for example ??
Because when I plug-in my headphones into my DAC, then I have only 1 more output left, and I need at least 2 outputs so I can connect 2x amps for 4 speakers total
Is there a specific adapter already made that I can buy ?
The adaptor you need is called an active XO (only reason i can see to use 2 different amps).
dave
dave
My 2 speaker sets have different impedances and the amp is only 2 channel, an active XO is best choice ?
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Cloning (spliting) the signal is required if you are driving multiple amplifiers as in active biamping. Using an active crossover like the miniDSP 2x4 (minimum) would achieve this with the additional benefits of adjusting EQ, crossover type/point and or time delay for proper setup. A "Y" cable can achieve the same if none of the above is required (it is). Otherwise there is no need for any of this. I'm sure Dave will set you straight when you visit 🙂
So to double-check, in this miniDSP 2x4, outs 3&4 are the exact clones of input signal 1&2 ? And outs 1&2 are also exact clones of input 1&2 and outs 3&4 ?
Is there a chance of signal strength or quality degradation in this particular miniDSP model or should I look at other brands ?
And there are also settings that can be customized through PC via USB ?
Not sure exactly which settings yet though
Any differences in quality of sound using RevA and RevB jumpers ?
And I guess I better keep the signal strength coming out from DAC under 2Vrms or it will overload :S... and if it overloads, it fries ?
If UMIK-1 input is added, then my computer will recognize it as additional microphone ? 😱
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That's an audio distribution line, so belongs to >Analog Line Level
Typing for Carver 35-x "Carver Audio TFM-35x - Amplifiers - 8-ohm FTC rated power/ch 250 W4-ohm FTC rated power/ch 350 WBridged mono power 700 W4/8-ohm FTC rated THD ..."
So no real deal in adding more power 😱
Now seeking for modules up to 200 W with mini size and hi-end sound.
Don't need real low freq extension- and for real I mean played at the right volume, which might be difficult to set when playing EDM 🙄
As some subwoofers are in the number.
Don't need anything beyond 😎 above 85 dB/W 'cos 110 dB 😱 would be hit . That Solen/Volt kit might be dangerous😡
Typing for Carver 35-x "Carver Audio TFM-35x - Amplifiers - 8-ohm FTC rated power/ch 250 W4-ohm FTC rated power/ch 350 WBridged mono power 700 W4/8-ohm FTC rated THD ..."
So no real deal in adding more power 😱
Now seeking for modules up to 200 W with mini size and hi-end sound.
Don't need real low freq extension- and for real I mean played at the right volume, which might be difficult to set when playing EDM 🙄
As some subwoofers are in the number.
Don't need anything beyond 😎 above 85 dB/W 'cos 110 dB 😱 would be hit . That Solen/Volt kit might be dangerous😡
I'll only be using about 100 watts per channel max anyways for 2 speakers, or 200 watts per channel for 4 speakers
I will try to just Y split the amp output into 4 speakers first and see if their volume balance matches,
Plus I can only imagine what confusion doing that for 2 different impedance speaker sets might create
But speaking from electrical/electronic/physics perspective, - just using Y cable might cause some difficulties in the signal travel and feedback
(doesn't this amp need to continuously analyze positions of speaker drivers ?)
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The same difficulties that might arise when using a power cable longer than 3m
or paralleling speakers ( same as series), they might and obviously will happen
in live level connections and cabling 🙄😕
You need an inner sight of the equipments used, especially input stages/output ones. It's (mostly) an impedance matching problem.
or paralleling speakers ( same as series), they might and obviously will happen
in live level connections and cabling 🙄😕
You need an inner sight of the equipments used, especially input stages/output ones. It's (mostly) an impedance matching problem.
IME, a Young cable will work fine.
As for the Solen kit, matching a 1" dome to an 8" woofer looks like hell off axis without loading the dome into a waveguide.
If you're looking for a bass limited two way, check out the kits on DIYSoundGroup.com
That's nice ! I like it! Indeed we say that an amplifier drives the speaker, which itself is a driver and transduces into waves.
Impulse response would tell that the system behaves like mass and a spring
and there's some starting time and settling of the impulse.
In digital world those are based upon Dirac impulse which is a 1 preceded and followed by a 0 so there it goes...😛
Yes, I haven't looked much at their schematics yet, but I'm pretty sure that in 2-channel amps which have outputs for 2 speakers per channel, - 2x Left and 2x Right, possess the wiring that is not as simple as a "Y" split, to allow room for proper feedback to come in,
so using an active XO + 2nd amplifier seems to be a better choice, even though I have more then enough power,
unless I can find an XO that can handle 200WPC input
Can you clarify for me, how do "Vrms" translate into audio Watts exactly ?
ie. my current DAC can give up to 7 Vrms(2 channels of course, so 3.5 Vrms per speaker) via the headphone amp, but what Watt rating of a speaker is that output able drive ?
and further more, what maximum headphone impedance is that output signal strength suited for ?
what's the math behind this, so I can more easily calculate the relation ratios
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Amplifiers drive speakers, not dac's. The level is the output capability when loaded to a typical amplifiers input and that poses a 100kΩ load (typically) eg no watts. A typical amplifier is designed to have a 2Vrms input, that is for rated full power output. Overdrive the input and overdrive the output.
You speak the truth, both of my XLR and RCA outs from DAC are 2Vrms each maximum,
I gotta be careful with using built-in headphone amp for output :/
And preferably the load has to be "easy", so single cabinet per channel.
If you want to experience the full power of that amplifier without splitting the sub frequencies, the Tarkus project might be a fair one, where the woofer works till 300 Hz so it would reproduce the full grunt ( or subtleness, for parity and for being...impartial😀 ) . Still, the name says it all, and the form suggest it...Tarkus, a giant armadillo, go imagine ..🙄
I don't see this as a Tarkus project (lacks effeciency) nor do I see this as a single stereo pair speaker system. If EDM we would want at least 4 channels. Could be accomplished as a HE 2way with additional subs that have their own plate amps tho. 🙂
I realized that I already have the most Optimal enclosure for my future 3-way Satellites, firstly,
I need to replace the 7.5 inches Mid-Range driver with a Paper/similar material driver(meant for acoustics) and then I need to replaced the 7.5 inches subwoofer on it with a very sharp, dynamic and punchy sub-driver
Then I will build a new cross-over for it,
Please direct me to where I can buy paper driver for mid-range ?
and sub-driver ?
Only the best quality, high-end audiophile grade please
Thank you
(I will post pictures of my enclosure and current drivers in them asap)
I need to replace the 7.5 inches Mid-Range driver with a Paper/similar material driver(meant for acoustics) and then I need to replaced the 7.5 inches subwoofer on it with a very sharp, dynamic and punchy sub-driver
Then I will build a new cross-over for it,
Please direct me to where I can buy paper driver for mid-range ?
and sub-driver ?
Only the best quality, high-end audiophile grade please
Thank you
(I will post pictures of my enclosure and current drivers in them asap)
Oh ! At this point I think I misunderstood everything. I thought we were talking about IDM, not EDM. I like IDM most as EDM is stupeeed, so stupid.
The Ego Deviated Movement is the worst
😛if IDM, I've always played it as available, e.g. 2 channels. No need to replicate them !
Oh ! At this point I think I misunderstood everything. I thought we were talking about IDM, not EDM. I like IDM most as EDM is stupeeed, so stupid.
The Ego Deviated Movement is the worst
if IDM, I've always played it as available, e.g. 2 channels. No need to replicate them !
IDM is also EDM heh, and I listen to the best music in the world only,
best in every genre, and most of my edm will better anything else out there, spanning all the way back to 1990, I like instrumental and natural sounding ambient a lot, spacy ambient is also very cool, full-on psy is very horrible, psy-ambient is nice at times, etc
Oldschool Trance is where it's at !
Mainstream edm is not even music, it's just noise, disorganized noise, and all the recent productions in every edm genre(except a few ambient tunes) is like nails on the wall, no talent at all, no logic, no rhythm or cleverly intertwined layers, no soul behind it, all sounds way too artificial, unemotional and unmoving
Been working heavily with worldwide broadcasting for over 10 years, DJ'ing, and now moving into professional production to bring the true edm sound back into the scene,
very unhappy with the most if not all of the recent productions for at least the past 7 years now 🙁
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