so ya didnt get the Digi cam, Step it up into the 21st century verbose stepppppppppp itttttttttt upppppppppppp. LOL JK
inverter
if anyone wants to know how to turn off or disable the inverter on a lcd send me a pic of the controller board and ill tell u what to do, all u need to do is desolder a small smd fuse and by turning off the inverter u not only save power to the lcd not that it is of much advantage but u save quite a fair bit of heat build up on the controller board.Also i may say it is safer to work with 12volts than 300 at your fingers!!! there are 2 fuses so get back to me and ill tell u wich one
Trev
if anyone wants to know how to turn off or disable the inverter on a lcd send me a pic of the controller board and ill tell u what to do, all u need to do is desolder a small smd fuse and by turning off the inverter u not only save power to the lcd not that it is of much advantage but u save quite a fair bit of heat build up on the controller board.Also i may say it is safer to work with 12volts than 300 at your fingers!!! there are 2 fuses so get back to me and ill tell u wich one
Trev
verbose
heya verbose, not sure if your talking about the mod of the inverter at all but if people can send me pics of their controler boards ill show how to and where the fuse is to turn off the inverter and that goes for any lcd lol unless it comes from mars lol jk
Trev
heya verbose, not sure if your talking about the mod of the inverter at all but if people can send me pics of their controler boards ill show how to and where the fuse is to turn off the inverter and that goes for any lcd lol unless it comes from mars lol jk
Trev
well I have done it now
I totally disassembled the Nec 1550. I have the boards removed from the sheet metal housing. I am planning to build my own that will allow the driver board to be closer to the LCD screen.
I am very interested to know how the plexiglas thing worked for you? verbose. I may try that for the LCD screen. Then I can bolt my new metal board housing to the plexiglass and that should protect the components unless I have already screwed them up.🙂 Anyway, if you do remove the boards fron the metal housing watch for all the ground points on the driver board. These need to be replicated to your new one.
I totally disassembled the Nec 1550. I have the boards removed from the sheet metal housing. I am planning to build my own that will allow the driver board to be closer to the LCD screen.
I am very interested to know how the plexiglas thing worked for you? verbose. I may try that for the LCD screen. Then I can bolt my new metal board housing to the plexiglass and that should protect the components unless I have already screwed them up.🙂 Anyway, if you do remove the boards fron the metal housing watch for all the ground points on the driver board. These need to be replicated to your new one.
jlh28
hi jlh28 i dont have a 1550v but but i do have a 6inch lcd and things had to made small and i had a heap of perspex laying around so ill tell u my experience with it to😵k im using mine to hold a frensel together 1 frensel sandwiched inbetween 2 bits of plexi, i did this because the frensel would worp as it is only a page magnifier but no probs there at all, its as clear as glass, also im using it as a cover for my light box unti that i made and its where the light comes out is where it is. Just be carful with the heat as it may worp the plexi i would use no thiner than 3mm in thickness thus not loosing u too much light but u have enough strength for the thing not to worp or the break or hold the thing together, from my understanding plexi also blocks uv so when u buy the plexi just ask them if it does, that would be a big bonus for us guys.
thanks trev
hi jlh28 i dont have a 1550v but but i do have a 6inch lcd and things had to made small and i had a heap of perspex laying around so ill tell u my experience with it to😵k im using mine to hold a frensel together 1 frensel sandwiched inbetween 2 bits of plexi, i did this because the frensel would worp as it is only a page magnifier but no probs there at all, its as clear as glass, also im using it as a cover for my light box unti that i made and its where the light comes out is where it is. Just be carful with the heat as it may worp the plexi i would use no thiner than 3mm in thickness thus not loosing u too much light but u have enough strength for the thing not to worp or the break or hold the thing together, from my understanding plexi also blocks uv so when u buy the plexi just ask them if it does, that would be a big bonus for us guys.
thanks trev
one thing i forgot and that is becareful when u clean plexi as it scraches very easily, u can by cleaner for it but make sure u dont use window cleaner and make sure u use a very soft cloth
Trev
Trev
yea i know it. Im probably going to pay a little more an go with lexan glass for a case becuse it can with stand more heat... im not sure about scratching though.
Thanks for the tips. I will be very careful with the plexi. I will try to pick some up tomorrow and get started.
EDIT Just saw your post verbose. I will also look into other more heat and scratch resistant options. If I come up with anything, I will post here tomorrow. Time for sleep
EDIT Just saw your post verbose. I will also look into other more heat and scratch resistant options. If I come up with anything, I will post here tomorrow. Time for sleep
vb/j
plexi starts to melt at about 85-90c it does melt at 120c catches fire at 150c it gets soft at 75c, it will warp at 75c if u are unlucky and this depends on the thickness u guys are gona use, (3mm is fine but u may want to go for 4mm for construction,) and what temps your gona run but im sure it would be fine for u guys just dont mount the mh bulb or anyother bulb holder to it lol thats all i know
Trev
plexi starts to melt at about 85-90c it does melt at 120c catches fire at 150c it gets soft at 75c, it will warp at 75c if u are unlucky and this depends on the thickness u guys are gona use, (3mm is fine but u may want to go for 4mm for construction,) and what temps your gona run but im sure it would be fine for u guys just dont mount the mh bulb or anyother bulb holder to it lol thats all i know
Trev
jlh28
I actually reused the 1550's black plastic frame and metal face plate. I just cut the wood with a dremel tool to make depressions in the wood for the plastic frames legs to fit in. Then I bent the edges of the metal face plate out so I could screw it's edges to the wood. That formed a plastic tray, lcd, faceplate sandwich, preventing the lcd edges from being exposed and using the tray to provide good support. I am in the process of redesigning the whole makeup of the lcd mounting assy, but the important thing is to make sure the edges are protected and the entire lcd has good, flat support.
Ken
I actually reused the 1550's black plastic frame and metal face plate. I just cut the wood with a dremel tool to make depressions in the wood for the plastic frames legs to fit in. Then I bent the edges of the metal face plate out so I could screw it's edges to the wood. That formed a plastic tray, lcd, faceplate sandwich, preventing the lcd edges from being exposed and using the tray to provide good support. I am in the process of redesigning the whole makeup of the lcd mounting assy, but the important thing is to make sure the edges are protected and the entire lcd has good, flat support.
Ken
nec 1535vi
-I was going to buy a nec 1550v to upgrade from my old eizo l360,(which i had to extend the ribbon) just because i reed that there is no need to extend the cables.When i went to my local pc store i saw the nec 1535vi that was only 45 euros more but has 450:1 contrast and 300cd / m2 plus dvi input.I saw both monitors on demo with the same picture and the 1535vi with the dvi and 450:1 was more realistic!So is there any way to find out if the cables need to be extended without buying it first?I meen does anyone have an info to make me go and spend some money or has anyone actually seen this panel ripped and knows about the ribbons?
Nec - 1535VI
15" ,TFT matrice attiva, 0.297 dot pitch, Area Visiva 304,1 x 228,1 mm, Contrasto 450:1, Luminosita' 300cd / m2, Risoluzione: 1024x768 ni 60Hz, Fr.Or.: 31,5 - 60,5 Khz, Fr.Ve.: 56 - 75 Hz. Connettore DVI-I. Dimensioni 436 (L) x 473 (A) x 183 (P) mm. Peso 4.8Kg. OSM (On Screen Manager), Power management, Plug&Play. Angolo visuale 110° vert - 150° orizz. TCO99. ISO 13406-2 classe II. LiquidView. sRGB. OMNICOLOR
-I was going to buy a nec 1550v to upgrade from my old eizo l360,(which i had to extend the ribbon) just because i reed that there is no need to extend the cables.When i went to my local pc store i saw the nec 1535vi that was only 45 euros more but has 450:1 contrast and 300cd / m2 plus dvi input.I saw both monitors on demo with the same picture and the 1535vi with the dvi and 450:1 was more realistic!So is there any way to find out if the cables need to be extended without buying it first?I meen does anyone have an info to make me go and spend some money or has anyone actually seen this panel ripped and knows about the ribbons?
Nec - 1535VI
15" ,TFT matrice attiva, 0.297 dot pitch, Area Visiva 304,1 x 228,1 mm, Contrasto 450:1, Luminosita' 300cd / m2, Risoluzione: 1024x768 ni 60Hz, Fr.Or.: 31,5 - 60,5 Khz, Fr.Ve.: 56 - 75 Hz. Connettore DVI-I. Dimensioni 436 (L) x 473 (A) x 183 (P) mm. Peso 4.8Kg. OSM (On Screen Manager), Power management, Plug&Play. Angolo visuale 110° vert - 150° orizz. TCO99. ISO 13406-2 classe II. LiquidView. sRGB. OMNICOLOR
Attachments
Nec 1535vi
Any info about the ribbons yet?This is a very good panel with dvi.Do you think it is possible to get the info directly by nec?
Any info about the ribbons yet?This is a very good panel with dvi.Do you think it is possible to get the info directly by nec?
Well, I got my 1560M today... No deals just purchased it new.
1024x768 xga
450:1
300
25ms Rapid Response
DVI
I was ready to use it for a few days just to make sure it was working before ripping it apart 🙂
The picture is beautiful! I was impressed. Very bright with great colors and NO GHOSTING! I was happy.. until I suddenly noticed a dead pixel! One single tiny pixel. Ahhhh, Now I have wait for another one.
The only good thing about buying new. If it doesnt work, take it back and get another one!
****On the plus side, while playing some HD content through both the DVI and VGA connections I was blown away! Even with HD content I didnt notice any ghosting.
1024x768 xga
450:1
300
25ms Rapid Response
DVI
I was ready to use it for a few days just to make sure it was working before ripping it apart 🙂
The picture is beautiful! I was impressed. Very bright with great colors and NO GHOSTING! I was happy.. until I suddenly noticed a dead pixel! One single tiny pixel. Ahhhh, Now I have wait for another one.
The only good thing about buying new. If it doesnt work, take it back and get another one!
****On the plus side, while playing some HD content through both the DVI and VGA connections I was blown away! Even with HD content I didnt notice any ghosting.
I had the replacement sent out yesterday, it'll be here tomorrow!
Instead of waiting for them to receive the broken one before sending me a replacement I just bought another one. I'll have the refund for the broken one when they get it back (should be next week)
If I didnt buy another one I would have to send this unit back to them, wait for them to tell me I was right and there is a dead pixel, them wait another 3 days for a new one to get back to me.
I hate waiting 🙂
Instead of waiting for them to receive the broken one before sending me a replacement I just bought another one. I'll have the refund for the broken one when they get it back (should be next week)
If I didnt buy another one I would have to send this unit back to them, wait for them to tell me I was right and there is a dead pixel, them wait another 3 days for a new one to get back to me.
I hate waiting 🙂
BTW... from what I noticed, the way this lcd is built should make taking it apart very easy. All the power and connections are directly behind the LCD itself. This should mean a nice size cable to work with the controller.
Plus it has decent speakers & a 4 hub USB port... So I can stick those in the Projector too.
Plus it has decent speakers & a 4 hub USB port... So I can stick those in the Projector too.
I found it for $319.
You may be able to get it cheaper... I really didnt look very hard. From what I saw the price on this monitor ranges from $310-380. I was surprised.
You may be able to get it cheaper... I really didnt look very hard. From what I saw the price on this monitor ranges from $310-380. I was surprised.
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