He'll come through. I just hope it's before I break down and get that cornea mp503. I haqve my heart set on the dvi input though.
You could always get a mp 503, pull it apart, use it and sell it on ebay as a pre-modded panel.
You could always get a mp 503, pull it apart, use it and sell it on ebay as a pre-modded panel.
Jcbrooklyn this is 1 kick@ss post thanks!!!
JC just wanted to say thanks, for posting the pics and all the work you put into helping others diy, i soon will get the courage to buy the 1560m from newegg(still am waiting to confirm the ease of extending the ribbon cable though)
JC just wanted to say thanks, for posting the pics and all the work you put into helping others diy, i soon will get the courage to buy the 1560m from newegg(still am waiting to confirm the ease of extending the ribbon cable though)
Glad I can help. I've actually received alot of emails from people that have done it already. They couldnt wait for me to finish it 🙂 All of the results have been successful and I couldnt be happier. All have used the soldering weld tip I posted. I was never happy with the "tape" method... so I wont be posting a walk through on that. Plus there is already a good one up on diyaudio somewhere.
Everytime I plan on posting the rest of the walk through I come up with something new and end up waiting. I just bought a new domain name for the project and and I'm putting the final touches on the design (of the page) now. Shouldn't be long now.
-John
Everytime I plan on posting the rest of the walk through I come up with something new and end up waiting. I just bought a new domain name for the project and and I'm putting the final touches on the design (of the page) now. Shouldn't be long now.
-John
Glad I can help. I've actually received alot of emails from people that have done it already. They couldnt wait for me to finish it 🙂 All of the results have been successful and I couldnt be happier. All have used the soldering weld tip I posted. I was never happy with the "tape" method... so I wont be posting a walk through on that. Plus there is already a good one up on diyaudio somewhere.
Everytime I plan on posting the rest of the walk through I come up with something new and end up waiting. I just bought a new domain name for the project and and I'm putting the final touches on the design (of the page) now. Shouldn't be long now.
-John
Everytime I plan on posting the rest of the walk through I come up with something new and end up waiting. I just bought a new domain name for the project and and I'm putting the final touches on the design (of the page) now. Shouldn't be long now.
-John
Can any ribbon be extended??!Help@@
Just tore apart an hp l1510, and of course it has a **kin ribbon cable connecting the top board to the side board, anyone still have extras of these this one is very small L-shaped, any help would be great thanks!!!
Just tore apart an hp l1510, and of course it has a **kin ribbon cable connecting the top board to the side board, anyone still have extras of these this one is very small L-shaped, any help would be great thanks!!!
Yes, ANY ribbon CAN be extended.
I've been working on finding the points right off the PCB boards where we can take the contacts from. I've found just about all of them... but a few would actually be harder to solder then the cable.
I worked the cable finding different ways to extend it so much that I had no cable left! 🙂 (I was trying to find out what the easiest way was.) In the end I had to solder directly off the metal contact points where the ribbon plugs into the PCB. This turned out to be easier then working with the cable itself. But you still have to work the other side of the cable.
I've been working on finding the points right off the PCB boards where we can take the contacts from. I've found just about all of them... but a few would actually be harder to solder then the cable.
I worked the cable finding different ways to extend it so much that I had no cable left! 🙂 (I was trying to find out what the easiest way was.) In the end I had to solder directly off the metal contact points where the ribbon plugs into the PCB. This turned out to be easier then working with the cable itself. But you still have to work the other side of the cable.
cool jc i saw the ide pic you posted
Jc i saw the pic of the ide technique, and will see if my buddy can help me extend the ribbon cable, using the IDE cable, last question, do you cut the ribbon cable, and solder the IDE from middle(from 1 side of ribbon to the other), or do you have to remove the ribbon entirely and solder the ide to the lcd board(mine is sodered right to the lcd and looks scary to remove-this isn't a nec, it's a hp l1510 with the backlight that was burned out), then to the ribbon cable?
Jc i saw the pic of the ide technique, and will see if my buddy can help me extend the ribbon cable, using the IDE cable, last question, do you cut the ribbon cable, and solder the IDE from middle(from 1 side of ribbon to the other), or do you have to remove the ribbon entirely and solder the ide to the lcd board(mine is sodered right to the lcd and looks scary to remove-this isn't a nec, it's a hp l1510 with the backlight that was burned out), then to the ribbon cable?
You dont have to cut the ribbon if you dont want to. Since you soldered directly to the PCB board you can solder the other end right to the metal tabs on the ribbon. It might be easier then cutting the cable.
If you cut it, make sure you sand down the cut end exposing the copper. This is VERY easy using a dremel with fine sanding bit. After sanding if you still have a problem soldering... use an exacto knife to cut each spacer leaving you with single strands on the ribbon. This way you dont have to worry about soldering the wire to double contacts. Just take your time and DONT try to do the entire thing in one shot. Do 2 or 3 and stop. Wait... then repeat. It makes things alot easier.
If you cut it, make sure you sand down the cut end exposing the copper. This is VERY easy using a dremel with fine sanding bit. After sanding if you still have a problem soldering... use an exacto knife to cut each spacer leaving you with single strands on the ribbon. This way you dont have to worry about soldering the wire to double contacts. Just take your time and DONT try to do the entire thing in one shot. Do 2 or 3 and stop. Wait... then repeat. It makes things alot easier.
jcbklyny,
jaywhy is not coming up for me. I am trying to find pictures of your results including the projected image. Have you tried comparing vga to dvi results?
jaywhy is not coming up for me. I am trying to find pictures of your results including the projected image. Have you tried comparing vga to dvi results?
that jaywhy site is actually one of my clients. I only used some space for a couple of pictures. I never posted result shots of the 1560m before I sold it. There wasnt any reason behind selling it... other then I wanted to build another one after learning what I had to on the first.
I'll be honest, there wasnt much difference at all between DVI and VGA. Very little if any, as long as your running through a computer. Which is why I'm using a cmv1512 for my new one.
Look for my aluminum projector thread for upcoming screen shots. At first glance, when projected the cmv1512 is brighter then the 1560m... but the 1560m's colors were a little more crisp. Which is odd because it has a lower contrast ratio then the 1512. Other then that... not much difference.
I'll be honest, there wasnt much difference at all between DVI and VGA. Very little if any, as long as your running through a computer. Which is why I'm using a cmv1512 for my new one.
Look for my aluminum projector thread for upcoming screen shots. At first glance, when projected the cmv1512 is brighter then the 1560m... but the 1560m's colors were a little more crisp. Which is odd because it has a lower contrast ratio then the 1512. Other then that... not much difference.
jcbklyny said:
wow jcb that nec must have had a crapy dvi controller then because the dvi on my lcd is night and day compared to vga
Cruser, what lcd are you using with dvi?
Yeah I heard dvi is much better also. But the cmv1512 is available to me here in Argentina and so is the nec 1560m . Thats it if I want dvi or get another dell ultrasharp and pay 60% duty and ship from the US.
So,
cmv1512
or
nec1560m (dvi) or
dell ultrasharp 1504fp (dvi)
Yeah I heard dvi is much better also. But the cmv1512 is available to me here in Argentina and so is the nec 1560m . Thats it if I want dvi or get another dell ultrasharp and pay 60% duty and ship from the US.
So,
cmv1512
or
nec1560m (dvi) or
dell ultrasharp 1504fp (dvi)
i payed $125 for this monitor i have but i had to replace a timing controller in it and that cost me another $50 so i have $175 into this monitor
the large fresnels are gonna run about $60 plus shipping each
the large fresnels are gonna run about $60 plus shipping each
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