Model : NEC Multisync LCD1560M
Resolution : 1024 x 768 XGA
Contrast : 450:1
Brightness: 300
VGA and DVI-D Connections
Extras:
- 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub
- Stereo Speakers built-in
---------------------------------------------------
<<<<<First off I have pictures and will have them posted by the end of the day!>>>>>>
As always make sure to use your new lcd monitors before taking them apart!
Until I put up the pics I'll just get right down to it... the 1560M CAN be used for DIY Projection 🙂 (Wild cheers from the crowd)
The controller board is connected with those flat cables everyone loves so much... but they are more then long enough to mount in a number of different positions. There are two... each being... I'd say 5-6" long.
Other then that mounting should be no different them the 1545 everyone loves so much.
--- Stay tuned for pics 🙂 and a step by step walk through.
Resolution : 1024 x 768 XGA
Contrast : 450:1
Brightness: 300
VGA and DVI-D Connections
Extras:
- 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub
- Stereo Speakers built-in
---------------------------------------------------
<<<<<First off I have pictures and will have them posted by the end of the day!>>>>>>
As always make sure to use your new lcd monitors before taking them apart!
Until I put up the pics I'll just get right down to it... the 1560M CAN be used for DIY Projection 🙂 (Wild cheers from the crowd)
The controller board is connected with those flat cables everyone loves so much... but they are more then long enough to mount in a number of different positions. There are two... each being... I'd say 5-6" long.
Other then that mounting should be no different them the 1545 everyone loves so much.
--- Stay tuned for pics 🙂 and a step by step walk through.
On the 1545v it's like 30-50 ms.. 10h of viewing now, no sign of ghosting!
I don't think response time is SO MUCH important.
I don't think response time is SO MUCH important.
NEC's Rapid Response™ technology provides for lifelike full-motion video display with response times of 30ms or less. Rapid Response delivers streaming video, while virtually eliminating ghosting or blurring, and achieving at least 33 frames per second (fps). This remarkably quick motion makes these models better than ever for gaming and video applications.
Rear Shot <br><img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/rear1560.jpg"><br><br>
Another...<br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/rear1560b.jpg">
Another...<br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/rear1560b.jpg">
BTW... before going on let me just ask...
IF YOUR NOT INTERESTED IN THIS MOD PLEASE DON'T REPLY! I'm posting this to help people because so far I havent found anyone else who opened up this model before. It's specs are better then what most people are currently using and looks like it's just as easy to mod as the 1540 series.
IF YOUR NOT INTERESTED IN THIS MOD PLEASE DON'T REPLY! I'm posting this to help people because so far I havent found anyone else who opened up this model before. It's specs are better then what most people are currently using and looks like it's just as easy to mod as the 1540 series.
NEC 1560VM NEC 1560VM is the same model without the USB hub and speakers.
PDF
(I think that the VM model is only for the European markets).
Btw. I've read that LG is coming with an LCD with a 12 ms response time, as is NEC with 16 ms RT. These should be regular TN+film TFT's, not MVA or anything special.
(I think that the VM model is only for the European markets).
Btw. I've read that LG is coming with an LCD with a 12 ms response time, as is NEC with 16 ms RT. These should be regular TN+film TFT's, not MVA or anything special.
Well done jcbklyny!
You took the risk you bought it you opened it and you gave the
info!If more people had done that with several things more
people now would have their projects working.
Thanx for the info jcbklyny, i am buying one today,i was waitting
for this since you wrote that you would buy and open a 1560M😉
You took the risk you bought it you opened it and you gave the
info!If more people had done that with several things more
people now would have their projects working.
Thanx for the info jcbklyny, i am buying one today,i was waitting
for this since you wrote that you would buy and open a 1560M😉
I'll be posting more pics explaning taking it apart throughout the day. I'm trying to do it in between the work I have to do 🙂
Step 1 - Unplug the USB port power plug and remove the base. This is held in by 4 screws with washers behind a plastic cover held on by 4 tabs.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step1.jpg"><br><br>
Step 2 - Next begin removing the screws on the rear panel. There are 5 total. 2 on top, 1 under the connections and 2 under the base plate mount.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step2.jpg"><br><br>
Step 3 - Now it's time to remove the rear panel. This took me a little while to figure out how to do without damaging the plastic in any way. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER!!! With the LCD face down (so you can read the writing on the back) start at the bottom left corner. With your thumb gently pull out the lip, grab the speaker housing (the 2 round moldings in the bottom corners, and the first tab should pop loose.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step3.jpg"><br><br>
Step 3B - Work your way up the left side... gently pulling at the lip poping tabs along the way. Once one side is finished... do the same to the other side... again starting at the bottom. Once the sides and bottom are free the panel should pull right up. You may have to work at the top tabs a bit...<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step4.jpg"><br><br>
Step 4 - Now we have to remove the sheet metal housing the power supply and controller. This is held in by 9 flat head screws.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step5.jpg"><br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step5b.jpg"><br><br>
Step 5 - Below is a close-up of the 2 flex cables attached to the controller. These MUST be removed before trying to take the lcd out of the plastic housing totally.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step6.jpg"><br><br>
Step 5b - With your thumb gently lift the brown tabs up like a trap door. They should come right out. (Dont worry you arent damaging the unit by doing this. This must be removable to service the unit.
... More later 🙂
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step1.jpg"><br><br>
Step 2 - Next begin removing the screws on the rear panel. There are 5 total. 2 on top, 1 under the connections and 2 under the base plate mount.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step2.jpg"><br><br>
Step 3 - Now it's time to remove the rear panel. This took me a little while to figure out how to do without damaging the plastic in any way. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER!!! With the LCD face down (so you can read the writing on the back) start at the bottom left corner. With your thumb gently pull out the lip, grab the speaker housing (the 2 round moldings in the bottom corners, and the first tab should pop loose.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step3.jpg"><br><br>
Step 3B - Work your way up the left side... gently pulling at the lip poping tabs along the way. Once one side is finished... do the same to the other side... again starting at the bottom. Once the sides and bottom are free the panel should pull right up. You may have to work at the top tabs a bit...<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step4.jpg"><br><br>
Step 4 - Now we have to remove the sheet metal housing the power supply and controller. This is held in by 9 flat head screws.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step5.jpg"><br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step5b.jpg"><br><br>
Step 5 - Below is a close-up of the 2 flex cables attached to the controller. These MUST be removed before trying to take the lcd out of the plastic housing totally.<br><br>
<img src="http://www.jaywhy.com/tst/step6.jpg"><br><br>
Step 5b - With your thumb gently lift the brown tabs up like a trap door. They should come right out. (Dont worry you arent damaging the unit by doing this. This must be removable to service the unit.
... More later 🙂
JC on the next round of pictures can you make the pics half of the size so we dont have to scroll the pictures and for those of us whom are 56K impared it dosent take 10 min to finish downloading the pics? just a suggestion
Deal with is video freak. I did for years. These high res photos are well worth the wait anyway. Why the rush anyway 😀.
verbose quit getting your panities in a buch, I didnt say Dumb down the photo quality Just the size so maybe they were 5- 6 in wide on the screen damn sometimes you come off like a ***.
Hey it's like VB said, I'm trying to post high res pics... As long as your running 1024x768 or higher 🙂 it's not too bad. But your right if I'm scrolling at this res, 640x480 must be a bitch.
I really should create a html page with all this and post the link up for you guys... that might help. I'll post it up on one of my clients web sites... like I'm doing with the pictures.
I just wanted the pics to be as easy to see and follow as possible. I didnt want to put up bad pics for a step by step tutorial.
PS, I know that user name of mine is hard to remember so just call me John please 🙂
I really should create a html page with all this and post the link up for you guys... that might help. I'll post it up on one of my clients web sites... like I'm doing with the pictures.
I just wanted the pics to be as easy to see and follow as possible. I didnt want to put up bad pics for a step by step tutorial.
PS, I know that user name of mine is hard to remember so just call me John please 🙂
PLEASE DONT RESIZE THEM WITH HTML CODE!!!! They'll look all ****ed up! If everyone wants them smaller so bad... I'll do it on my end.
All of the pictures should now be fixed. I made them all smaller without degrading the quality... too much. I'm not making them any smaller. If I do it would be a waste.
Thanks much, JC, My main problem isnt scrolling the image to see what you are talking about, its scrolling the text back and forth to read what you had to say.
All very interesting by the way, and quite invaluable to the DIY PJ community I am sure.
I didnt mean to seem pushy or unappreciative at all.
CB.
All very interesting by the way, and quite invaluable to the DIY PJ community I am sure.
I didnt mean to seem pushy or unappreciative at all.
CB.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.