I literally rescued this Neat Shield MO-19 from being tossed into a dumpster. It’s in surprisingly great condition for it’s age! This table was in the process of being refurbished. Apart from a little dust on it when found, this clone of an idler drive table appears to only need a bit of love… and a tonearm!
From what I've been able to uncover from various forums, this model was made for the American market. I'm guessing it's 1966-1970 vintage. The platter spins easily by hand but the motor*does not engage when plugged in - several wires are left to connect and I imagine some of the assembly has yet to be tightened down.
The mechanics look very similar if not identical to the Neat P-58H. I found several pics of the P-58H wiring on the internet. There is at least one capacitor that might be missing and need to be identified.
The wood base is massive and the metal work - what looks like powder coat - seems near pristine. The motor beneath looks good with no rust and has a handful of wires unconnected. I've uploaded some pics of the Neat Shield plus one of the Neat P-58h.
I hope someone will contact me regarding it's refurbishing... I'm a monkey with a most things electrical. I live in Jersey City, NJ.
From what I've been able to uncover from various forums, this model was made for the American market. I'm guessing it's 1966-1970 vintage. The platter spins easily by hand but the motor*does not engage when plugged in - several wires are left to connect and I imagine some of the assembly has yet to be tightened down.
The mechanics look very similar if not identical to the Neat P-58H. I found several pics of the P-58H wiring on the internet. There is at least one capacitor that might be missing and need to be identified.
The wood base is massive and the metal work - what looks like powder coat - seems near pristine. The motor beneath looks good with no rust and has a handful of wires unconnected. I've uploaded some pics of the Neat Shield plus one of the Neat P-58h.
I hope someone will contact me regarding it's refurbishing... I'm a monkey with a most things electrical. I live in Jersey City, NJ.
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Hi guys! Well, the good news is that my dumpster dive table, the Neat Shield MO-19 IS working… though it's running in reverse!!! I left it with my trusted repair guy, who rightfully avoided it for about 7 months, told me to come get it, and then decided to work a little on it as long as I didn't fault him if it broke. He wired it up as best he could and it does run (thanks Tommy!). Its rubber supports are okay, there's a spring that's missing and the idler wheel need resurfacing (all doable). Thankfully, the motor does work and the switch works. The resister is a little warm and smells a bit but it's not getting too warm.
Here's the big question: Do these Denki Onkyo Hysteresis motors run in both directions? He tried reversing the polarity but that had no effect. There are two pairs of red and green wires coming from the motor… would it reverse direction if their wirings were reversed?
Hi guys! Well, the good news is that my dumpster dive table, the Neat Shield MO-19 IS working… though it's running in reverse!!! I left it with my trusted repair guy, who rightfully avoided it for about 7 months, told me to come get it, and then decided to work a little on it as long as I didn't fault him if it broke. He wired it up as best he could and it does run (thanks Tommy!). Its rubber supports are okay, there's a spring that's missing and the idler wheel need resurfacing (all doable). Thankfully, the motor does work and the switch works. The resister is a little warm and smells a bit but it's not getting too warm.
Here's the big question: Do these Denki Onkyo Hysteresis motors run in both directions? He tried reversing the polarity but that had no effect. There are two pairs of red and green wires coming from the motor… would it reverse direction if their wirings were reversed?
Nice Plinth
I have a NEAT TT similar to that which also needs some work
mine has bad rumble when motor engaged with platter
Be interesting to see how your TT comes along
sorry, I don't have access to my unit to check CAP values
which spring is missing ?
Tim
I have a NEAT TT similar to that which also needs some work
mine has bad rumble when motor engaged with platter
Be interesting to see how your TT comes along
sorry, I don't have access to my unit to check CAP values
which spring is missing ?
Tim
Olympic dumster diving with arms outstretched and fingers pointing to the moon!
BTDT!
Wonderful feeling to find something for free that costs someone something and know you can laugh all the way to the bank at their expense! 😎
Back to earth, once again, sorry,
Good score and happy restoring!
BTDT!
Wonderful feeling to find something for free that costs someone something and know you can laugh all the way to the bank at their expense! 😎
Back to earth, once again, sorry,
Good score and happy restoring!
I just picked up the Shield MO-19 table from my repair guy. While it does rotate in the opposite direction (for now), the lack of noise surprised me - I was expecting big noise! I imagine what I hear might be from the idler wheel not keeping good contact with the platter since it increases as I go up in speed. All the 4 speeds work. I'll send that out for resurfacing. I'll take pics tomorrow and upload so you guys see what I'm looking at to help resolve the rotation issue.
Arch: Thanks for the starting point cap value.
Tim: One of the 3 top suspension springs is missing. Not sure how easy such things are to find.
Arch: Thanks for the starting point cap value.
Tim: One of the 3 top suspension springs is missing. Not sure how easy such things are to find.
Tim: One of the 3 top suspension springs of my Neat Shield MO-19 is missing. Not sure how easy such things are to find.
I'm making a Well Tempered clone - using some original WT parts. If the table sounds really good I may spring for a cool vintage arm but, for now, I'm trying to make something affordable that'll show me what this baby can do.
I'm making a Well Tempered clone - using some original WT parts. If the table sounds really good I may spring for a cool vintage arm but, for now, I'm trying to make something affordable that'll show me what this baby can do.
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Hello all! Here's what my guy did to get the table running… granted, the platter is currently running in reverse. I gave him wiring photos of all the similar tables that I could find. There is a spare green wire that's unconnected. Also note the top views missing suspension spring - there's something light blue stuffed into that hole. Lastly, I need to replace the tubing for lubricant that goes to the back of the motor.
Do these photos give you any indication why the platter might be running in reverse?
Hello all! Here's what my guy did to get the table running… granted, the platter is currently running in reverse. I gave him wiring photos of all the similar tables that I could find. There is a spare green wire that's unconnected. Also note the top views missing suspension spring - there's something light blue stuffed into that hole. Lastly, I need to replace the tubing for lubricant that goes to the back of the motor.
Do these photos give you any indication why the platter might be running in reverse?
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DIY WTL Tonearm
I think a DIY WTL Tonearm will be good on that TT
That is what I am planning to build for mine - when I get back to the NEAT
Good info in this thread - check it out
My DIY WTL Tonearm
Tim
I think a DIY WTL Tonearm will be good on that TT
That is what I am planning to build for mine - when I get back to the NEAT
Good info in this thread - check it out
My DIY WTL Tonearm
Tim
Yes, it's an ac 4 pole hysteresis synchronous motor made by Denki Onkyo. The unconnected green wire is the ground wire from the power cord. Where would that get connected?
I've been a long time Well Tempered Turntable (the original model) owner - got it used back in 1990-1992. I was fortunate to get the last of Larry Pedersen's LP Labs carbon fiber arms back in 1996, so I have the WT arm tube, wired as it originally came, with the counter weights, finger lift and PIB box. I've got a golf ball mounted, a 2"id pipe cap (a sweet find) and am trying to get the stainless rods cut and one drilled. A 3/8" id rubber grommet will work great until I find a way to make/buy the proper azimuth wheel. The original arm mounts to the golf ball higher, which should allow me to bring the pot lower and compensate for the Shield's 2" height from plinth to platter surface.
I've been a long time Well Tempered Turntable (the original model) owner - got it used back in 1990-1992. I was fortunate to get the last of Larry Pedersen's LP Labs carbon fiber arms back in 1996, so I have the WT arm tube, wired as it originally came, with the counter weights, finger lift and PIB box. I've got a golf ball mounted, a 2"id pipe cap (a sweet find) and am trying to get the stainless rods cut and one drilled. A 3/8" id rubber grommet will work great until I find a way to make/buy the proper azimuth wheel. The original arm mounts to the golf ball higher, which should allow me to bring the pot lower and compensate for the Shield's 2" height from plinth to platter surface.
This might help a bit. It's from the gallery on vinyl engine.
Turntable Forum • View image - NEAT P 68 H TT
Turntable Forum • View image - NEAT P 68 H TT
When I turn it on or switch the speeds, yes - it's always in reverse. I tried spinning it in the correct direction before turning it on but it slows and goes counter clockwise.
I suppose there is two coils with four wires, two wires per coil.
Have you tried to commute the two pairs of wires ?
Have you tried to commute the two pairs of wires ?
Okay, here's where I show my ignorance… by 'commute' do you mean switching the position of the two red wires for each other and two green wires for each other?
Try to change the positions of the green and red wires over the condensator only. Leave the other wire (black I think) on the condensator exactly the same place.
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