I recently bought an MB-1s from ebay that will play anywhere from a few seconds to as many as 30 secs and then it will pause for a very short time and then start to play again. At first I thought it was skipping but it's actually picks back up where it left off. It doesn't appear to be a reading problem, I tested 1 disk and it would do it at exactly the same time over and over again. This was a new disk. It does it on all disks but at different intervals. The LED's are also completely out, I don't know if the problems are related. I'm guessing not. I'm new to this forum so any help will be greatly appreciated. I got a killer deal on this so I figured I'd try to fix it myself and save some money over buying a working one. I bought one new when they came out and loved it then and this sounds just as good when it's playing. I have 3 questions:
1: How do I get the cover off? I've taken all the screws out I can see and it's still attached at the front somehow?
2: What could the pausing be and how to fix it.
3: Is there something to look at that could be causing the LED's to be out besides replacing the LED. If not, where can I get a replacement.
1: How do I get the cover off? I've taken all the screws out I can see and it's still attached at the front somehow?
2: What could the pausing be and how to fix it.
3: Is there something to look at that could be causing the LED's to be out besides replacing the LED. If not, where can I get a replacement.
Same problem with Nakamichi MB-2s
Has anyone seen and solved this problem? Mine may have been caused by spending a summer or two stored in a 130+ degree attic.
Has anyone seen and solved this problem? Mine may have been caused by spending a summer or two stored in a 130+ degree attic.
The unit has a vacuum flourescent display, not LED. Outage is usually caused by either a)failure in the negative voltage filament bias supply, generally -18v to -30v, a dc voltage applied to the usually 3volt AC filament supply, or b)cracked solder connections on the pins of the VF display, generally the one or usually two pins at each end of the VFD that are the filament connections(and where you can also measure for the presence of the negative dc bias voltage). If it's bias supply failure, it's usually caused by an electrolytic capacitor going bad in that circuit.
The top cover on the MB-1/2/3/4s series have screws on the back edge, along the top of the rear panel, which will allow you to then pull the rear of the cover up & then back to clear the front panel 'lip'. Sometimes the little foam or rubber spacer blocks between the side chassis members & the top cover get sticky, and it's then necessary to pull the bottom edge of each side of the cover outward to unstick them.
This series of musicbank Nak players uses a Sanyo laser pickup that is extremely reliable, so I would look for a mechanical problem, either with the laser 'sled' tracking drive(chipped gear teeth, dried grease on guide rails, stiffened laser connecting wires causing movement resistance) or slightly possibly with the platter motor(but not at all likely). Once you get the top cover off, power it up, tell it to open the drawer, turn power off, and then operate the tracking drive with your fingers(pretty sure the gears are on the top accessible side of the mech) and feel for resistance or grinding, etc.
The top cover on the MB-1/2/3/4s series have screws on the back edge, along the top of the rear panel, which will allow you to then pull the rear of the cover up & then back to clear the front panel 'lip'. Sometimes the little foam or rubber spacer blocks between the side chassis members & the top cover get sticky, and it's then necessary to pull the bottom edge of each side of the cover outward to unstick them.
This series of musicbank Nak players uses a Sanyo laser pickup that is extremely reliable, so I would look for a mechanical problem, either with the laser 'sled' tracking drive(chipped gear teeth, dried grease on guide rails, stiffened laser connecting wires causing movement resistance) or slightly possibly with the platter motor(but not at all likely). Once you get the top cover off, power it up, tell it to open the drawer, turn power off, and then operate the tracking drive with your fingers(pretty sure the gears are on the top accessible side of the mech) and feel for resistance or grinding, etc.
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