Hello,
I have a few problems with my 3020, wondering if people could help.
1) Right channel is cutting out. My inputs put might be the problem on the horizonal flap on the back. The right input cradles for photo and tuner are moving a little... although the problem is among all input devices except Tape in.
Could this be a simple soldier job, or something much more elaborate?
2) When I start up the amp, it takes about 3-8 seconds for sound to come through. Is this because my power supply 9or something else) is going or is it just normal?
3) Where can I find the square buttons? I lost one and am looking to replace it.
Thanks for looking and for any help you can provide.
cheers
I have a few problems with my 3020, wondering if people could help.
1) Right channel is cutting out. My inputs put might be the problem on the horizonal flap on the back. The right input cradles for photo and tuner are moving a little... although the problem is among all input devices except Tape in.
Could this be a simple soldier job, or something much more elaborate?
2) When I start up the amp, it takes about 3-8 seconds for sound to come through. Is this because my power supply 9or something else) is going or is it just normal?
3) Where can I find the square buttons? I lost one and am looking to replace it.
Thanks for looking and for any help you can provide.
cheers
Hi paradiiddle
This was a popular amp, have you used the SEARCH button on the home page? There will be several threads on this amp already that may answer your queries.
However, seeing your switched inputs have a common fault, you might look at common connections like the earth for a break or a bad switch selector contact at even the tape monitor position which is also in common. It may not even actually originate in the inputs but in the amplifier or protection switches instead. As a preliminary check, measure the DC voltage at the outputs with no input connected. It should not exceed 40mV or so. If you read zero or something significantly greater, you do have a problem.
This was a popular amp, have you used the SEARCH button on the home page? There will be several threads on this amp already that may answer your queries.
However, seeing your switched inputs have a common fault, you might look at common connections like the earth for a break or a bad switch selector contact at even the tape monitor position which is also in common. It may not even actually originate in the inputs but in the amplifier or protection switches instead. As a preliminary check, measure the DC voltage at the outputs with no input connected. It should not exceed 40mV or so. If you read zero or something significantly greater, you do have a problem.
They need to come from a scrapped NAD. How many are you missing? I can't recall whether i have any left from sending some off to a fellow in Greece.
dave
You should be able to get spare/replacement parts from NAD. Have you contacted them directly? And while you are at it, order a service manual for your unit.
NAD Electronics :: Parts and Service
Yes, it may just be a loose solder connection. A soldier is a person in the military.
NAD Electronics :: Parts and Service
Yes, it may just be a loose solder connection. A soldier is a person in the military.
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I'm missing just one button. Could I paypal you for yours?
I did... unsuccessfully though. Good point!
I tried searching... I don't think anyone else in this forum specifically has this problem. I did find a couple button posts... but didn't want to jack them.
I'll try that with my tester tonight. My amp is now working again (I wiggled everything until it worked... and then haven't touched the back of it since) I assume that these are not the right conditions to test it?
Let me see what i can find 1st. Email me so tha i have a note to follow up on.
dave
You probably realise that jiggling sockets to establish reliable connection implies faulty sockets and/or wiring internally. If you want to fix this properly, some work has to be done by cleaning and replacing parts that are worn or on which the plating has corroded.
To test the power amp for basic faults as suggested, you can leave your normal inputs in place but switch to tape monitor to isolate them. If you are using the tape monitor inputs for another source, remove or otherwise disable it. The better method is to then short this input(s) with a 1K resistor(s) so that spurious input noise does not interfere with the output DC measurement.
Hopefully, this is unnecessary and you only have the age of the amp. connections to deal with. 🙂
The 3020 is a great sounding amp. But to hit the price point they were built cheap. The sockets soldered to the board & sticking out the shelf suck. I always thot about mounting decent sockets on the back & wiring them to the board. In the end i just decided to work over 7020s -- they have more room to work in.
The females 14 items down work well.
dave
You're right there, dave. Cheap sure applied to those products but not the price here, at least. Sellers were asking mid-market prices for budget engineering and this probably explains lower product profiles and popularity here too.
In the late 70s we were selling them for something like $225. You could add a Linn LP12 with a Grace 707/Grado FTE, and a budget pair of Bostons or a KEFkit for about a grand.
dave
dave
I realise now, more than ever, I don't know how to properly use my tester.
Am I supposed to test it with the amp on or off? Keep in mind I'm using my amp as a pre-amp, so I have removed the connectors.
Would you be able to walk me through what I need to do?
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Most probably the contacts in the tape monitor switch are dirty.Give them a spray of servisol switch cleaner.I had the same problem myself and this worked.No harm to give all the switches a clean.Amp normally takes a few seconds to pass sound as pre amp/driver supply charges.
A friend of mine bought one of these and had a lot of problems with it, he had to resolder a lot of the connections. Very shoddy construction. I'm not sure why they had a great reputation.
This is a long shot as this thread is old, but i'm desparate to find 2 square buttons for my 3020. Would you have any, or would you know where i could find some? (NAD don't stock them anymore)
Thanks a lot. You can reply at fsalter@aei.ca
Thanks a lot. You can reply at fsalter@aei.ca
Hi,
do you still have buutons for the 3020? I'm missing the square green one (the square black one will do just fine as well)..
thanks, Vangelis (Greece)
I just done recapping and mine NAD3020 starts after 6 seconds from the switching moment. Is that normal?
The mute function in 3020 models is not via the usual speaker relay at the output of the amplifiers but with JFETs that switch the output of the preamps instead. Therefore, the muting only blocks the signal to the amplifier. Speaker protection (if you can call it that) is achieved with independent, thermally operated switches.
The part numbers depend on the model number and there were several versions of the 3020 in different numbering sequences too. The schematics of the power amplifier may be identical but you need to be precise about the model number to identify specific parts if necessary. If the model is simply "3020" it's likely to be the original model unless the rear sticker has vanished.
Perhaps the long delay was there before you did the recap but if it has only appeared since you changed (I assume) all the electrolytic caps, perhaps you substituted the timing caps with higher values, as enthusiastic folk tend to do, not realising that some are used for timing in an RC circuit, where actual capacitance value becomes important. Capacitors also lose their capacitance as they age and less capacitance means faster timing.
From the schematic, the RC timing actually depends on several capacitors here and also the preamp power supply so you may like to review all your changes and mark them on a copy of the relevant circuit diagram and consider what may have changed the RC timing circuit of the JFETs (i.e. Q309/310 on the 3020i schematic)
Schematics can be downloaded free after registering here: NAD 3020 - Manual - Stereo Integrated Amplifier - HiFi Engine
or from other, similar sites catering to interest in older commercial products.
The part numbers depend on the model number and there were several versions of the 3020 in different numbering sequences too. The schematics of the power amplifier may be identical but you need to be precise about the model number to identify specific parts if necessary. If the model is simply "3020" it's likely to be the original model unless the rear sticker has vanished.
Perhaps the long delay was there before you did the recap but if it has only appeared since you changed (I assume) all the electrolytic caps, perhaps you substituted the timing caps with higher values, as enthusiastic folk tend to do, not realising that some are used for timing in an RC circuit, where actual capacitance value becomes important. Capacitors also lose their capacitance as they age and less capacitance means faster timing.
From the schematic, the RC timing actually depends on several capacitors here and also the preamp power supply so you may like to review all your changes and mark them on a copy of the relevant circuit diagram and consider what may have changed the RC timing circuit of the JFETs (i.e. Q309/310 on the 3020i schematic)
Schematics can be downloaded free after registering here: NAD 3020 - Manual - Stereo Integrated Amplifier - HiFi Engine
or from other, similar sites catering to interest in older commercial products.