Guys,
Busy as it gets over here. Sorry for no price yet. I have a lot of shipping to do today so it wont happen today. My daughter is going to go to gymnastics camp for 2 days this week so I am happy I will get some alone time with no demands on it but to work on the MyRefC quote for you all.
As for the wire.......... I was not going to include anything that was not a piece that was wholly on the board. But, I was down at the Arts and Crafts store buying finger paints the other day for the little gal and I saw some 99.99% or maybe it was 99.999% fine silver wire. I have gobs of teflon tubing that would fit it well. I use silver wire in all my signal. I prefer small gage single strand ala Alan Wright. If there are no objections I could provide 2 ft of it in each kit. I think that would cover any amount you all needed.?
What do you think?
Busy as it gets over here. Sorry for no price yet. I have a lot of shipping to do today so it wont happen today. My daughter is going to go to gymnastics camp for 2 days this week so I am happy I will get some alone time with no demands on it but to work on the MyRefC quote for you all.
As for the wire.......... I was not going to include anything that was not a piece that was wholly on the board. But, I was down at the Arts and Crafts store buying finger paints the other day for the little gal and I saw some 99.99% or maybe it was 99.999% fine silver wire. I have gobs of teflon tubing that would fit it well. I use silver wire in all my signal. I prefer small gage single strand ala Alan Wright. If there are no objections I could provide 2 ft of it in each kit. I think that would cover any amount you all needed.?
What do you think?
I agree with the silver wire teflon tubbed! I think 2 feet will be enought for 2 signal wires. If we were to hook the ground too, it will be necessary a little more.
What's your point of view about it? Does it worth to hook up the RCA ground with silver?
What's your point of view about it? Does it worth to hook up the RCA ground with silver?
Uriah,
Please do not buy silver wire, no matter what purity is stated, in an A&C store for use in these amps. I think jewelry wire is pretty low grade for audio use, whether it's silver or whatever. This might be a big mistake, and offset so much of what we're trying to do here.
If you want to try it later and let us know if it's really good, that's fine. I do not want to pay for any "experimental" craft wire to hookup my amps.
Wire is one of the easiest things for anyone to buy, and there is little financial advantage to buying it in quantity. It's far more important to concentrate on buying the best components that offer a real sonic and economic advantage.
I believe that silver wire is highly overrated anyway, but that usually leads to a lengthy debate.
Peace,
Tom E
Please do not buy silver wire, no matter what purity is stated, in an A&C store for use in these amps. I think jewelry wire is pretty low grade for audio use, whether it's silver or whatever. This might be a big mistake, and offset so much of what we're trying to do here.
If you want to try it later and let us know if it's really good, that's fine. I do not want to pay for any "experimental" craft wire to hookup my amps.
Wire is one of the easiest things for anyone to buy, and there is little financial advantage to buying it in quantity. It's far more important to concentrate on buying the best components that offer a real sonic and economic advantage.
I believe that silver wire is highly overrated anyway, but that usually leads to a lengthy debate.
Peace,
Tom E
Uriah -
Sorry, I'm going to side with Tom (madisonears) on this one. Please carefully consider the Crafts store silver wire; but, I probably won't use it.
Just my two cents worth.
Sorry, I'm going to side with Tom (madisonears) on this one. Please carefully consider the Crafts store silver wire; but, I probably won't use it.
Just my two cents worth.
In fact, despite of I would buy it just "to try", because I haven't ever used it, I think that is an amount of money innecesarily (in my oppinion). You don't need it to have the best sound from this great designed amp.
I tried the silver wire mention by peter daniel from UK and it works great in my B1 buffer..
-joe
-joe
Guys, don't we think it's time to start this thing and go ahead with the group buy..? I guess the numbers are already what we were looking for, aren't they?
And what about the binding posts and the RCA's? Do we have an agreement?
Another thing is the diode bridge. Is "GBJ1504 Taitron" the best option or we should try the MUR860's? Whats you oppinion about this model?
Another thing is the diode bridge. Is "GBJ1504 Taitron" the best option or we should try the MUR860's? Whats you oppinion about this model?
Rush? What rush?
Sometime we'll have to start it, don't you think so?
The GB started with a target at about 100 kits, and that seems tio be achieved long ago, so why not starting having prices and go ahead?
BTW: I would NOT put any kind of wire in the kit. That's personal taste, imho.
I've been thinking this morning about a matter that, after reading almost the whole original thread, hasn't been clear to me. It is about the total gain of the amp, due to this special design.
I suppose that it will be between 20x and 30x, but just supposing because of the common values usually implemented. Do you guys know what is it value exactly?
I suppose that it will be between 20x and 30x, but just supposing because of the common values usually implemented. Do you guys know what is it value exactly?
The overall gain is fairly straightforward - it's an inverting voltage-shunt feedback configuration. The gain, using the resistances in Mauro's rev3 schematic is 12k / 390 ohms ~= 31.
Tom and Dario
Do you guys remember anything about that 1k 2W Yageo? They are certainly the cheapest out there in that size and resistance. Coming in around 6-7 cents. Depends if metal film or carbon comp. Do you have a preference here between metal film and carbon comp and do you have any reason to use Yaego? For just a few cents I could go KOA Speers. Some people are into Carbons. I usually prefer metal film.
Uriah
Do you guys remember anything about that 1k 2W Yageo? They are certainly the cheapest out there in that size and resistance. Coming in around 6-7 cents. Depends if metal film or carbon comp. Do you have a preference here between metal film and carbon comp and do you have any reason to use Yaego? For just a few cents I could go KOA Speers. Some people are into Carbons. I usually prefer metal film.
Uriah
Uriah,
I would avoid carbon at all cost, as the value may drift with temperature and age. This might be the worst place for a carbon resistor. I think R1 and R4 probably have little influence on the sound of the amp, but close tolerance and low drift might have a positive effect on its efficient operation. My amps never get more than barely warm, even at high output, and have very low DC on the output (0.5 and 1.2 mv). I don't know if power supply has anything to do with that, but it can't hurt.
The original Yageo is a beefy part which will help dissipate heat, but has 5% tolerance. I used Vishay/Dale 1% (CPF21K0000FKE14) flameproof metal film 100ppm at 42 cents each (28 cents ea for 200). If you feel the need to save those few cents, get the Yageos. People can invest the extra $1.68 on their own, if they want. If you want to provide the ultimate BOM as described, supply the Vishays.
Each part makes its own minute contribution, and they all add up. It's true you can shave off some cost here and there, but are those compromises worth it in the end? You have some tough decisions to make. I am glad to help in any way I can. I'm sure Dario will, too.
Peace,
Tom E
I would avoid carbon at all cost, as the value may drift with temperature and age. This might be the worst place for a carbon resistor. I think R1 and R4 probably have little influence on the sound of the amp, but close tolerance and low drift might have a positive effect on its efficient operation. My amps never get more than barely warm, even at high output, and have very low DC on the output (0.5 and 1.2 mv). I don't know if power supply has anything to do with that, but it can't hurt.
The original Yageo is a beefy part which will help dissipate heat, but has 5% tolerance. I used Vishay/Dale 1% (CPF21K0000FKE14) flameproof metal film 100ppm at 42 cents each (28 cents ea for 200). If you feel the need to save those few cents, get the Yageos. People can invest the extra $1.68 on their own, if they want. If you want to provide the ultimate BOM as described, supply the Vishays.
Each part makes its own minute contribution, and they all add up. It's true you can shave off some cost here and there, but are those compromises worth it in the end? You have some tough decisions to make. I am glad to help in any way I can. I'm sure Dario will, too.
Peace,
Tom E
No, I am not worried about saving money on a part. I am worried about getting the best sound but there was no recommendation from you two on that resistor so I thought I would ask as it seemed to me to have been chosen based on being inexpensive rather than the best.
I am not compromising on any parts at all. Thats not what this buy is about.
I really appreciate the help you are both giving.
Uriah
I am not compromising on any parts at all. Thats not what this buy is about.
I really appreciate the help you are both giving.
Uriah
Hi Folks, I'm interested in a pair. I put myself on the spreadsheet.
Price does matter though (to avoid messy divorce proceedings!). I will be asking a few daft questions since I am a 'join the dots' type builder.
Am I going to have to build a pre-amp too? Or can I use a simple ?K potentiometer in the signal input (did this with Brian GT's LM 3886 kit).
Any good pre-amp kits out there?
Thanks for all the hard work.
B
Price does matter though (to avoid messy divorce proceedings!). I will be asking a few daft questions since I am a 'join the dots' type builder.
Am I going to have to build a pre-amp too? Or can I use a simple ?K potentiometer in the signal input (did this with Brian GT's LM 3886 kit).
Any good pre-amp kits out there?
Thanks for all the hard work.
B
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