udailey said:So here is the status.
I have the board almost 100% assembled.
A few problems. The .22uf caps that are replacing the .1uf caps are kind of large. They needed to be placed on the bottom of the board. Not a big deal, but not perfect. This is C7, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21. The problem is that they are a bit fat. We will look at an alternative, but this is not a big deal and if an alternative is not as nice as the caps already there then placement on the back of the board will be recommended.
The Faston connectors that go on the board seem to be keyed. We have to find some with exactly the same footprint on each side so that they fit the holes. They wont go in very well right now.
Easy fixes.
Uriah
From the first post:
"The only difference from Mauro's diagram are additional 220nF by pass caps parallel to the 100uF caps C6, C11, C9, C18, C19, and C20 (this corresponds to rev 1.2 of the layout Russ made)."
Just for "general knowledge", why would there be a deviation from the Twisted Pair last rev PCB and BOM?
Or did I mis-understand and that this is a "new" PCB, not the ones Twisted Pair sold, and incorporates the by-pass caps "on board" instead of tacked onto the cap pins on the bottom?
Hi Troy, the PCBs are indeed the same layout (1.2) as our last production run. It must be that the parts that are different.
Russ White said:Hi Troy, the PCBs are indeed the same layout (1.2) as our last production run. It must be that the parts that are different.
Great! Because I KNOW those sounded excellent and were fairly easy to build.
For those of you trying to email me, the address has been updated so please send again. Russ and or Brian, if you are making the order please append it to include one additional kit (stereo) for me. I will forward the paypal today. Uriah has informed me that this list closed so I am hoping to step ahead in the process in order to catch up 8^)
Guys,
First.. The buy is absolutely closed.
Second.. I dont intend to bill anyone until I have a board stuffed and working. I just posted about trouble with a few parts so the board is not yet successfully stuffed. I ordered replacement parts this morning and they already shipped so I expect them within 2 days then give me another day to get it running. Thats by far the earliest that we will accept paypal payments.
I have no idea what anyones shipping will be except in the US it will be in a flat rate box. I think it will fit in the smallest one. To every individual country I am sure it will be different and we will calculate that at the time of billing. At that time, if you dont like the shipping rate, you are welcome to decline the order and we will then offer declined kits to others on DIYaudio. Its been said that the populated board is around 14oz. This should be a good gauge for you to figure shipping through USPS. Shipping must include some type of tracking or delivery confirmation as well as insurance.
My guess for international is between 20-30 dollars. Its a guess, your country may be more or less.
Uriah
First.. The buy is absolutely closed.
Second.. I dont intend to bill anyone until I have a board stuffed and working. I just posted about trouble with a few parts so the board is not yet successfully stuffed. I ordered replacement parts this morning and they already shipped so I expect them within 2 days then give me another day to get it running. Thats by far the earliest that we will accept paypal payments.
I have no idea what anyones shipping will be except in the US it will be in a flat rate box. I think it will fit in the smallest one. To every individual country I am sure it will be different and we will calculate that at the time of billing. At that time, if you dont like the shipping rate, you are welcome to decline the order and we will then offer declined kits to others on DIYaudio. Its been said that the populated board is around 14oz. This should be a good gauge for you to figure shipping through USPS. Shipping must include some type of tracking or delivery confirmation as well as insurance.
My guess for international is between 20-30 dollars. Its a guess, your country may be more or less.
Uriah
Troy,
Yes the building has been really easy. I was working on it yesterday. Very simple. I think that Faston power connectors should be populated first.
Probably like this:
Faston
resistors except large one
small caps and LM318
small diodes and transistors
header pins
medium caps and relay
rectifier and large caps
LM3886
This will make the build easier so that parts do not get in the way of other parts and you can get your fingers in where you need to.
The little caps are the same as Russ and Brian used in the last BOM I believe from reading the posts in the build thread. They replaced the 100nf with 220nf and these caps are a little big. Mounting them underneath the board was easy and made room for the 100uf caps near the LM318. Caps not involved with the signal have been changed to Xicon for price reasons but all capacitance and voltage values remain the same. Many metal film resistors are also Xicon for the same reason.
Uriah
Yes the building has been really easy. I was working on it yesterday. Very simple. I think that Faston power connectors should be populated first.
Probably like this:
Faston
resistors except large one
small caps and LM318
small diodes and transistors
header pins
medium caps and relay
rectifier and large caps
LM3886
This will make the build easier so that parts do not get in the way of other parts and you can get your fingers in where you need to.
The little caps are the same as Russ and Brian used in the last BOM I believe from reading the posts in the build thread. They replaced the 100nf with 220nf and these caps are a little big. Mounting them underneath the board was easy and made room for the 100uf caps near the LM318. Caps not involved with the signal have been changed to Xicon for price reasons but all capacitance and voltage values remain the same. Many metal film resistors are also Xicon for the same reason.
Uriah
Although I might leave off the resistor that goes from pin 3 to pin 9, the solder in the LM3886 then put in that resistor. The resistor would still be a little bit of a pain to solder in, but at least you could hit all the legs of the LM3886 easily.
Uriah
Uriah
These 220nF stacked film caps will fit perfectly:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=478-3395-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=478-3395-ND
Uriah,
Thanks for the updates. Please take your time to make sure your board is a quality build, and easily repeatable by all buyers.
One aspect of your last update concerns me. You initially said that parts quality would not be compromised, but now you state that some parts have been changed to save cost. Even if they are the same value, most of us believe that certain components perform better than others, perhaps even if they're not in the signal path. I am more interested in extracting every bit of fidelity from these amps that is possible, not in saving a few bucks on caps or resistors. Personally, I believe you should not deviate from the Twisted Pear BOM to save money on the kits. If this entire project will cost each builder a couple hundred dollars with all other components included, the price of really good caps and resistors is relatively minor.
On the other hand, each builder can elect to buy better parts, or even the very best, if they so choose. It's ultimately your call, of course, and we support your efforts no matter what.
To all buyers/builders:
I expect that this thread will eventually get populated with a bunch of questions and opinions regarding specific applications. I propose that the next person who has a question regarding specific technical issues which does not relate to the actual sample trial/buying process initiate a thread in the Chip Amps forum to avoid cluttering this thread.
The original thread there is so long and convoluted that it's extremely difficult to locate and extract useful information. I'm sure that those with experience with this circuit will still be willing to contribute to a new thread.
Peace,
Tom E
Thanks for the updates. Please take your time to make sure your board is a quality build, and easily repeatable by all buyers.
One aspect of your last update concerns me. You initially said that parts quality would not be compromised, but now you state that some parts have been changed to save cost. Even if they are the same value, most of us believe that certain components perform better than others, perhaps even if they're not in the signal path. I am more interested in extracting every bit of fidelity from these amps that is possible, not in saving a few bucks on caps or resistors. Personally, I believe you should not deviate from the Twisted Pear BOM to save money on the kits. If this entire project will cost each builder a couple hundred dollars with all other components included, the price of really good caps and resistors is relatively minor.
On the other hand, each builder can elect to buy better parts, or even the very best, if they so choose. It's ultimately your call, of course, and we support your efforts no matter what.
To all buyers/builders:
I expect that this thread will eventually get populated with a bunch of questions and opinions regarding specific applications. I propose that the next person who has a question regarding specific technical issues which does not relate to the actual sample trial/buying process initiate a thread in the Chip Amps forum to avoid cluttering this thread.
The original thread there is so long and convoluted that it's extremely difficult to locate and extract useful information. I'm sure that those with experience with this circuit will still be willing to contribute to a new thread.
Peace,
Tom E
Tom,
Your remarks are noted and we will talk about it. Thanks for posting your opinion on the matter. I would rather know in advance than after the fact.
I should also mention that three are very few parts that even deviate in part numbers from the original buy.
Uriah
Your remarks are noted and we will talk about it. Thanks for posting your opinion on the matter. I would rather know in advance than after the fact.
I should also mention that three are very few parts that even deviate in part numbers from the original buy.
Uriah
parts confusion
The 220nF are according to the TP BOM. They were originally 100nF and were changed in the last BOM used by TP to 220nF.
My original posting was perhaps confusing. I was pointing out the differences to the published by Mauro schematic. The board is the last one done by TP (we are using their Gerbers!). The circuit diagram for the board is different from the only published diagram (by Mauro) that I could find. I enumerated the differences. (I actually found another couple of differences; in any case we are using the BOM and board as last used by TP.)
As regards resistors we are using the exact same kind as in the last BOM by TP. They are 50ppm parts in case anyone cares. (In fact, we are using some of the very resistors that Brian used since he donated a set of left over parts to this group buy.)
As regards the 100uF Elcos they will be Panasonic FM.
Sorry about the confusion that may have been created.
peter
The 220nF are according to the TP BOM. They were originally 100nF and were changed in the last BOM used by TP to 220nF.
My original posting was perhaps confusing. I was pointing out the differences to the published by Mauro schematic. The board is the last one done by TP (we are using their Gerbers!). The circuit diagram for the board is different from the only published diagram (by Mauro) that I could find. I enumerated the differences. (I actually found another couple of differences; in any case we are using the BOM and board as last used by TP.)
As regards resistors we are using the exact same kind as in the last BOM by TP. They are 50ppm parts in case anyone cares. (In fact, we are using some of the very resistors that Brian used since he donated a set of left over parts to this group buy.)
As regards the 100uF Elcos they will be Panasonic FM.
Sorry about the confusion that may have been created.
peter
I apologize if I upset or offended anyone. I am thrilled merely by the opportunity to obtain the latest and best (?) version of this unusual design. Knowing that you are conscious of good value and proper implementation, I will be happy with whatever is provided in the kits.
Thanks to Uriah and Peter just for getting this deal going, and to Brian, Russ, and, of course, Mauro, for their generous support.
Peace,
Tom E
Thanks to Uriah and Peter just for getting this deal going, and to Brian, Russ, and, of course, Mauro, for their generous support.
Peace,
Tom E
Indeed, the problem was that I had mistakenly specified a 100V part of the same series. That is differently sized from the 63V part that Brian notes above.BrianDonegan said:These 220nF stacked film caps will fit perfectly:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=478-3395-ND
My mistake (and a fine illustration why it's worth the expense to order a set and try to put it together before ordering a truckload of this stuff... 🙂). Unfortunately these sorts of mistakes slow things down, but as Uriah said we are committed to getting this right even if it takes longer.
peter
Hey no problem. Should have posted these earlier. ITs looking GOOD 🙂
http://picasaweb.google.com/udailey/MyRef#
Uriah
ps feel free to poke through my other photos in my public gallery if you like.
http://picasaweb.google.com/udailey/MyRef#
Uriah
ps feel free to poke through my other photos in my public gallery if you like.
"ps feel free to poke through my other photos in my public gallery if you like."
She has an exact copy of momma's nose!!! (which is NOT a bad thing)
EDIT:
Oh yeah, and Mauro's Rev. C will sound fantastic on the co-ax and FR speakers you built!
She has an exact copy of momma's nose!!! (which is NOT a bad thing)
EDIT:
Oh yeah, and Mauro's Rev. C will sound fantastic on the co-ax and FR speakers you built!
🙂 Thanks Troy!
hmm my I just changed my sig to include
http://picasaweb.google.com/udailey/MyRef#
I wonder if I am not allowed to see my own signature or something.
hmm my I just changed my sig to include
http://picasaweb.google.com/udailey/MyRef#
I wonder if I am not allowed to see my own signature or something.
udailey said:Hey no problem. Should have posted these earlier. ITs looking GOOD 🙂
Thank you very much!
Very good!!! 😎
Components seems different from the last TP BOM I've found...

That BOM is attached, it's the same that you're using?
I guess that film caps are the ones suggested by Brian Donegan... you're blazing fast, man! 😉
You're doing a great job!
Attachments
Dario,
For the most part we want to stick to the BOM you are talking about. We will post a final BOM shortly once we get all parts settled on. As you may have noticed some did not fit and I have other options on order. They should be here today or tomorrow for me to choose from. We will post a BOM that we feel is going to be the final BOM at around the time that we start accepting PayPal payments.
Uriah
For the most part we want to stick to the BOM you are talking about. We will post a final BOM shortly once we get all parts settled on. As you may have noticed some did not fit and I have other options on order. They should be here today or tomorrow for me to choose from. We will post a BOM that we feel is going to be the final BOM at around the time that we start accepting PayPal payments.
Uriah
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