Re: FYI: Kit Output Caps
Brian-
FWIW, they have the Janzten caps in stock on both sides of the 22uF cap listed in your BOM. Or at least they a couple of days ago.
SteveA
BrianDonegan said:So, as I have previously mentioned, I have several Jantzen output caps (~130) on backorder. PartsExpress (supplier) is saying the ETA is currently 2/7, which is a week later than I had originally been told. The date seems to slip a little every few days.
I currently have enough of the output caps for 14 kits. Everything else in in stock. I have an email into PE for some better information on arrival time, and will post as soon as I get it.
I *could* look for alternatives, either from PE (such as a Dayton Audio equivelent) or elsewhere. I will be doing some more research while I wait for a response. I found a European source for the caps, but they are a LOT more expensive. I will continue to look. If anyone has ideas, send me an email.
Brian-
FWIW, they have the Janzten caps in stock on both sides of the 22uF cap listed in your BOM. Or at least they a couple of days ago.
SteveA
I wouldnt bother too much about the brand. I think that Jantzen had their polyprops "rolled" somewhere, and just attached their "sticker" to it😉 No doubt though, the Jantzen's are great🙂 But you could propably find something similar without too much trouble🙂I *could* look for alternatives,
Steen🙂
The easiest replacements are Jantzen 18uF or a Dayton 20uF (anything between 4 and 30 is fine).
I would go for the 18uF Jantzen's🙂 Anything over 10uF should be fine😉The easiest replacements are Jantzen 18uF or a Dayton 20uF
Steen🙂
steenoe said:I would go for the 18uF Jantzen's🙂 Anything over 10uF should be fine😉
Steen🙂
I would agree, I think the 18uf Jantzen is a great choice.
Okay, just talked to PE. They have the 18uF, but not many (not enough). they have tons of the Dayton caps in 20uF.
Here's a link: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?DID=7&PartNumber=027-436
I think these would be fine, but want to get some opinions, as you guys are paying for them 😉.
Here's a link: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?DID=7&PartNumber=027-436
I think these would be fine, but want to get some opinions, as you guys are paying for them 😉.
Ya, I have an opinion.
You're in charge and I trust your judgement.
Thank you for a thankless job.
You're in charge and I trust your judgement.
Thank you for a thankless job.
The Solen caps are just great🙂 I guess my preference for the Jantzen caps is because they say "Made in Denmark"😀 Which they aren't anyway's😉 Solen caps has a very good reputation though, so I wouldnt have second thoughts about ordering those🙂I'm calling them back in a few minutes to ask about the 20uF Solens. Any opinions?
Steen🙂
Brian,
Thanx for the estimate on the shipping costst. Total for me would be around $125 (for 2 toriods incl shipping and taxes). Probably the Schuro's 160VA 55V+9V wil be around 44 euro a piece (excl shipping), so probably 110 euro total (which is about the same). Because I sometimes have problems with customs (delays, wrong adresses etc), a European supplier is a bit easier for me.
Btw about the caps, I don't mind waiting a few weeks more. Personaly I prefer the best parts (within reason), just for peace of mind. Of course I have no experiece how good the Daytons sound, or Solens.
On the other hand, you guys are in control. Things must not get too complicated to organize.
Ronald
Thanx for the estimate on the shipping costst. Total for me would be around $125 (for 2 toriods incl shipping and taxes). Probably the Schuro's 160VA 55V+9V wil be around 44 euro a piece (excl shipping), so probably 110 euro total (which is about the same). Because I sometimes have problems with customs (delays, wrong adresses etc), a European supplier is a bit easier for me.
Btw about the caps, I don't mind waiting a few weeks more. Personaly I prefer the best parts (within reason), just for peace of mind. Of course I have no experiece how good the Daytons sound, or Solens.
On the other hand, you guys are in control. Things must not get too complicated to organize.
Ronald
PE is saying 30-60 days for the Jantzens. I am going to go for the Solens, assuming they are in stock.
For outputcaps for the twisted BosoZ I actually did try a lot of caps, just for the heck of it😉 I am normally not too biazed towards any particular brand🙂 Well, if it sounds good, it is good dont you think? Well, I listened to Jantzen, Audyn, JCR and Mcap and Mcap Supreme, rolled polyprops and ofcourse my alltime favourite Rifa PHE426😀
To tell you guys the truth, I really didnt hear any difference😉 At least no difference that was worth mentioning🙂 Sooo, ofcourse I put back my PHE426's, just to make sure I would feel good😀 😀
And I do😎
Steen🙂
To tell you guys the truth, I really didnt hear any difference😉 At least no difference that was worth mentioning🙂 Sooo, ofcourse I put back my PHE426's, just to make sure I would feel good😀 😀
And I do😎
Steen🙂
If it didnt come clean in my previous post, I can recommend the Solen cap. I did participate in a few listening tests, (mostly with speaker X-overs) and the Solen caps are not lacking soundwise😉
Well, you wouldnt beleive what a "blindfold" listeing can result in😀 😀 The Solens did pretty good, and so did the Jantzens. All the others did place in after those😀 I was pretty glad to see the Mcaps at 3' or 4' place😀
Steen😎
Edit: If you want me to elaborate even further, let me know. I would have to pick up the notes from a friend of mine though!! We did write down everything carefully, but ofcourse I remember only the headlines🙂
Well, you wouldnt beleive what a "blindfold" listeing can result in😀 😀 The Solens did pretty good, and so did the Jantzens. All the others did place in after those😀 I was pretty glad to see the Mcaps at 3' or 4' place😀
Steen😎
Edit: If you want me to elaborate even further, let me know. I would have to pick up the notes from a friend of mine though!! We did write down everything carefully, but ofcourse I remember only the headlines🙂
Working on a very simple attenuator for my XBOSOZ 🙂
OK Folks,
Since I want balanced inputs/outputs for my preamp I started weighing my options for an attenuator, there are quite a few, but most good solutions are either a real pain to build (so type of stepped attenuators for instance) or simply don't work as well as hoped.
4 ganged pots are very expensive and may not really satisfy.
So I did as many have before me. I reinvented the wheel. 😀 I know a million people have probably done a circuit like this, but it is so simple I couldn't resist. 🙂
Here is my plan.
1) Create a 32 step attenuator using 5 good small signal relays (G6H) using a voltage mode R-2R ladder circuit for the signal attenuation. This will give me a constant output impedance with varying imput impedance, since all my (actually almost all) sources have very low output impedance this is not problem at all.
2) Create a PCB which will allow for good quality resistors in the ladder like Dale RN60s and such.
3) Keep it simple enough that a singe 8 pin uC is all that is needed to drive the logic.
4) Make it smallll!!!! It should fit very easily into the preamp case without being intrusive at all.
Well here is what I have so far. If there is any interest I will spin this off into another thread.
Here is the Schematic for the attenuator:
OK Folks,
Since I want balanced inputs/outputs for my preamp I started weighing my options for an attenuator, there are quite a few, but most good solutions are either a real pain to build (so type of stepped attenuators for instance) or simply don't work as well as hoped.
4 ganged pots are very expensive and may not really satisfy.
So I did as many have before me. I reinvented the wheel. 😀 I know a million people have probably done a circuit like this, but it is so simple I couldn't resist. 🙂
Here is my plan.
1) Create a 32 step attenuator using 5 good small signal relays (G6H) using a voltage mode R-2R ladder circuit for the signal attenuation. This will give me a constant output impedance with varying imput impedance, since all my (actually almost all) sources have very low output impedance this is not problem at all.
2) Create a PCB which will allow for good quality resistors in the ladder like Dale RN60s and such.
3) Keep it simple enough that a singe 8 pin uC is all that is needed to drive the logic.
4) Make it smallll!!!! It should fit very easily into the preamp case without being intrusive at all.
Well here is what I have so far. If there is any interest I will spin this off into another thread.
Here is the Schematic for the attenuator:
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