then drool on this :
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Hey Tsiros. I was just thinking about some of the issues you are having. I reckon if you built yourself an F3 or possibly an Aleph J it might make significant improvement in the areas you are not happy with.
what issues? only thing i am not perfectly happy with the 12" is the sliiiightly peaky highs >15KHz... one solution i thought is to try out diff speaker covering materials... other than that i don't mind. it's not like i don't enjoy them
I think you mentioned they sounded edgy or something like that.
Have you actually done a frequency response plot, or are you saying your ear tells you there are issues >15kHz.
It is possible you could also have an amp issue. I would be looking at Class A amps now. The efficiency of the AN 12" is good, so even a 10W Class A amp will work
Anyway I am almost certain things will settle down with extended break in.
You can always add some of the suggestions Norman made in the meantime if it is annoying you.
Have you actually done a frequency response plot, or are you saying your ear tells you there are issues >15kHz.
It is possible you could also have an amp issue. I would be looking at Class A amps now. The efficiency of the AN 12" is good, so even a 10W Class A amp will work
Anyway I am almost certain things will settle down with extended break in.
You can always add some of the suggestions Norman made in the meantime if it is annoying you.
I have several hundred hours on my AN12 cast frames and absolutely they improve with break in. They are running open baffle and crossed over at 70Hz @ 24dB slope to let a pair of Goldwood 18's do the lows. While not perfect they are damn good up to respectable levels. At silly levels (that's when the dogs leave the room and the neighbors call the police) they do break up and have me headed for the volume knob. By all accounts the AN15's are better in most respects and worth the added cost.
I think you mentioned they sounded edgy or something like that.
FWIW, if my ancient Klark Teknik chart is accurate, then 'edge' is in the ~octave centered around 5 kHz, which the published response indicates, so my SWAG is it's a byproduct of the whizzer and shouldn't audibly change over time, ergo for whizzer 'enhanced' drivers the $0.98 or other tweak to damp them somewhat is virtually always required for HIFI apps.
GM
FWIW, if my ancient Klark Teknik chart is accurate, then 'edge' is in the ~octave centered around 5 kHz....
GM
I did a Gated Sweep with LMS on the AN12 Cast Frame once. At 5kHz, there was some loud cracking sound. I think that's where the transition of the whizzer comes in.
You don't need to do gated sweep to hear a cracking sound.
Gating is used to avoid measuring room refections. It is a measuring technique
i don't hear a cracking sound though
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