Good morning.
While making changes to my audio system my Adcom 535II was left connected to the line conditioner while the inputs and outputs were removed from the speakers and preamp. The system was run a short period of time with a different amp when i noticed the 535 was still on, the short version, the right channel is now out on the 535.
No question either the inputs or outputs on the right channel were touching each other when it was on .
Are there quick tests i cam make , a fuse i can check or is it off to the shop for repairs?
Thanks for looking, if you have any idea's let me know.
While making changes to my audio system my Adcom 535II was left connected to the line conditioner while the inputs and outputs were removed from the speakers and preamp. The system was run a short period of time with a different amp when i noticed the 535 was still on, the short version, the right channel is now out on the 535.
No question either the inputs or outputs on the right channel were touching each other when it was on .
Are there quick tests i cam make , a fuse i can check or is it off to the shop for repairs?
Thanks for looking, if you have any idea's let me know.
It looks like bad news.
There are internal fuses (2) under the cover that you can check. My guess, and it is a guess at this point, is that the fuses are fine and the output shorted.
The bad news is that this can get expensive. A tech will charge 50-75 for a diagnosis. The output device(s) will need to be replaced and whatever else went out (large resistors etc). The parts themselves are not expensive, but the labor will be expensive. It is possible that it was just a fuse, but unlikely (check anyway).
In my neck of the woods, a used Adcom 535 will cost about $125 on eBay and about $75 on CraigsList. In either case, these are older amps and the small electrolytic caps and the electrolytic PS caps are all near the end of their life. Such a replacement & tuneup could be handled by a competent DIYer. They are a fine amp and quite a few were made.
There are internal fuses (2) under the cover that you can check. My guess, and it is a guess at this point, is that the fuses are fine and the output shorted.
The bad news is that this can get expensive. A tech will charge 50-75 for a diagnosis. The output device(s) will need to be replaced and whatever else went out (large resistors etc). The parts themselves are not expensive, but the labor will be expensive. It is possible that it was just a fuse, but unlikely (check anyway).
In my neck of the woods, a used Adcom 535 will cost about $125 on eBay and about $75 on CraigsList. In either case, these are older amps and the small electrolytic caps and the electrolytic PS caps are all near the end of their life. Such a replacement & tuneup could be handled by a competent DIYer. They are a fine amp and quite a few were made.
Thanks for the reply.
I have noticed that the Thermal protection light is on and i would assume contact of the speaker cable terminals are the likely cause of the issue.
I will check the fuses and see what i can find.
I purchased a backup unit on Ebay some time ago and will swap it out while testing this unit.
Rebuilding the unit as a project sounds interesting, hope it doesn't need it but i might take a shot if i can find the information,
Thanks again
I have noticed that the Thermal protection light is on and i would assume contact of the speaker cable terminals are the likely cause of the issue.
I will check the fuses and see what i can find.
I purchased a backup unit on Ebay some time ago and will swap it out while testing this unit.
Rebuilding the unit as a project sounds interesting, hope it doesn't need it but i might take a shot if i can find the information,
Thanks again
Sounds like a good plan. Anyhow, at this point we are only guessng about what happened.
If it is any comfort, you are certainly not the first person this has happened to.
Good luck
If it is any comfort, you are certainly not the first person this has happened to.
Good luck
If the II is not so different from my I, the same thing did happen to me.
In my case, IIRC, one or two fuses blew on the left channel. I replaced the fuse(s) and plugged everything in and listened to music. Phew! Music. However, over time I got the sense something was wrong with the left channel and noticed the amp running warm on the left side. After weeks futzing with it, I finally decided to check my speakers and found out I had a blown woofer. Ouch!
Before hooking up any good speakers, assuming you just have a fuse problem, I would check offset first and if that is ok, then hook up some dirt cheap speakers.
I wound up writing a thread about this on diyaudioprojects.com. The amp is fine now but I had to replace the output transistors and driver transistors. It is working great but you better dig into it soon because the transistors are harder to come by these days.
In my case, IIRC, one or two fuses blew on the left channel. I replaced the fuse(s) and plugged everything in and listened to music. Phew! Music. However, over time I got the sense something was wrong with the left channel and noticed the amp running warm on the left side. After weeks futzing with it, I finally decided to check my speakers and found out I had a blown woofer. Ouch!
Before hooking up any good speakers, assuming you just have a fuse problem, I would check offset first and if that is ok, then hook up some dirt cheap speakers.
I wound up writing a thread about this on diyaudioprojects.com. The amp is fine now but I had to replace the output transistors and driver transistors. It is working great but you better dig into it soon because the transistors are harder to come by these days.
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