yes it does indeed. It gets pretty loud too.
Amp gurus: I need some suggestions on a portable (battery powered) amp for this little beast 😀
Amp gurus: I need some suggestions on a portable (battery powered) amp for this little beast 😀
Mine are quite small too 🙂 Triple folded, about 5L volume.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here with a Visaton FR10 4". Results were disappointing.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And finally with a Hi-Vi B3N. Sounding reasonable with 4dB BSC and a 6dB notch filter at 8K. Very position dependent. In free space very little bass but close to walls it's another matter. Corners not so good, very boomy.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The tweeter is not in use, the B3N takes care of everything.
Full story here: stevesstuffproject: SRA-3TL DIY Bookshelf Loudspeaker (beta) - Part 1
Cheers,
Steve
Looks great!! Your t-line is different to mine however. Mine uses a constant area while yours uses a reducing area. What are the differences between both?
Good eye.
The tapering reduces the overall length of the line. As previously pointed out having fewer bends also helps maximizes output at the terminus.
Ebay t-amps are cheap and can be ran off batteries.
Roger
The tapering reduces the overall length of the line. As previously pointed out having fewer bends also helps maximizes output at the terminus.
Ebay t-amps are cheap and can be ran off batteries.
Roger
As to battery power, there's always the DTA-1 at PE.
Dayton DTA-1 Class T Digital Amplifier 15 WPC | Parts-Express.com
Takes 8 AA batt.s or a 12v but I just connect the wall wart.
Dayton DTA-1 Class T Digital Amplifier 15 WPC | Parts-Express.com
Takes 8 AA batt.s or a 12v but I just connect the wall wart.
Umm, isnt this the one that looks like it was put together by people with no fingers???
LOL, i just noticed that... my bad *slaps head*. I will get the DTA-2 soon, well maybe a few cuz they are so CHEAP!😀
As i understand it, that is the guts from the amp that Lon suggested, I bought a couple of them. They are still in the box.
dave
http://sites.google.com/site/stevesstuffproject/_/rsrc/1237739851909/sra-3tl-bookshelf-loudspeaker-beta---part-2/acousticfoam.jpg?height=210&width=420
So you say it doesn't work for any speaker .
The upper (top of the cabinet ) and the surface under the basket may produce a "tunnel" effect .Is this the case ? maibe a "chunnel"...🙄
Also the second (last )fold may catch a dead point ie. little driver-low SPL=poor "pressurization"
So you say it doesn't work for any speaker .
The upper (top of the cabinet ) and the surface under the basket may produce a "tunnel" effect .Is this the case ? maibe a "chunnel"...🙄
Also the second (last )fold may catch a dead point ie. little driver-low SPL=poor "pressurization"
I don't really have the answers but I'd say that the B3N isn't suitable for this type of enclosure. Cone excursion becomes excessive on low bass and distortion is very evident. If I seal the port, bass is cleaner and less boomy but efficiency takes a big hit. The FR10 coped better but the mids and highs were rough, hence the addition of a tweeter.
There might be a top end 3" or 4" full range driver out there which will work better, maybe from TangBang or Mark Audio, and when finances allow I'll continue experimenting! 🙂
There might be a top end 3" or 4" full range driver out there which will work better, maybe from TangBang or Mark Audio, and when finances allow I'll continue experimenting! 🙂
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