A 2way,with drive units of significant quality,value for money also is of prime concern.
Peerless is considered as good value for money.
Consider a 1" tweeter and 4" Cone driver with passive crossover ~2khz.Using a larger mid driver will result in more beaming because generally the crossover point cant be much lower , Fs of tweeter probably 1khz-1.5khz.
Sealed or ported depending on driver specifications. PLY + bitumen or thick mdf.
www.linkwitzlab.com
Peerless is considered as good value for money.
Consider a 1" tweeter and 4" Cone driver with passive crossover ~2khz.Using a larger mid driver will result in more beaming because generally the crossover point cant be much lower , Fs of tweeter probably 1khz-1.5khz.
Sealed or ported depending on driver specifications. PLY + bitumen or thick mdf.
www.linkwitzlab.com
Ok guys, so you don't like a 2 way system!
Let's go for a 3 way using passive+active crossovers!
Just give me some suggestions!
1" Seas 27TBFCG Good and cheap 35E in my country
6"-7" Mid-bass you name it! should match the tweeter efficiency
2x7"-8" woofer you name it!
crossovers: 2-4Khz depending on Mid-bass Passive
150HZ 24db/octave Active
The Woofers: bass reflex cabinet, volume: 50-60L depending on Woofer size
The Midbass: sealed cabinet 10-12L(I'm not sure if it can go down to 150Hz), vented would be problematic with 2-3Khz!
Midbass: around 32$ each they're gonna cost around 40E in my country
Woofers: around 48$ each they're gonna cost around 60E in my country
I need something to be considered "best bang for the buck" but still
high quality, just as the tweeter!
Is it possible to get some HQ sound with this money, or should I go
for 2/ 2,5way?
That's my problem I can't find a project that would worth 3,4 times it's price!
I don't want to find out that when I'll finish the project, it's only
10% better than a speaker that is halt the DIY project!
That's why I can't decide which way should I go!
Let's go for a 3 way using passive+active crossovers!
Just give me some suggestions!
1" Seas 27TBFCG Good and cheap 35E in my country
6"-7" Mid-bass you name it! should match the tweeter efficiency
2x7"-8" woofer you name it!
crossovers: 2-4Khz depending on Mid-bass Passive
150HZ 24db/octave Active
The Woofers: bass reflex cabinet, volume: 50-60L depending on Woofer size
The Midbass: sealed cabinet 10-12L(I'm not sure if it can go down to 150Hz), vented would be problematic with 2-3Khz!
Midbass: around 32$ each they're gonna cost around 40E in my country
Woofers: around 48$ each they're gonna cost around 60E in my country
I need something to be considered "best bang for the buck" but still
high quality, just as the tweeter!
Is it possible to get some HQ sound with this money, or should I go
for 2/ 2,5way?
That's my problem I can't find a project that would worth 3,4 times it's price!
I don't want to find out that when I'll finish the project, it's only
10% better than a speaker that is halt the DIY project!
That's why I can't decide which way should I go!
Part of the DIY value is the bragging right of saying you made them yourself. I've built quite a few speakers now (10 or so different models). The first one was a total experience and even though they are not as top notch as my last project, they are very fun to listen to. Put the cost aside for a moment, go for what YOU want. With an active crossover, it's actually easy to modify it as you go. Once you've found a configuration that sounds good, you can try it in passive (which I've done for quite a few projects with great success).
You seem to already have your own idea. Try it! Trust me, even though the value factor might be important now, it won't be once they are finished. Once your tweaking is done, you'll more likely than not enjoy them a lot. To your ears they are very likely to sound very good.
Trust your instincts. Once you have something going on, it will be easier for people to help you out ironing the little details out.
Sébastien
You seem to already have your own idea. Try it! Trust me, even though the value factor might be important now, it won't be once they are finished. Once your tweaking is done, you'll more likely than not enjoy them a lot. To your ears they are very likely to sound very good.
Trust your instincts. Once you have something going on, it will be easier for people to help you out ironing the little details out.
Sébastien
Alexnick said:
Thats mostly because it dosent exist! The project that will be woth 10x what it costs is a grand utopia clone: total build price $7,000, MSRP of the speaker $85,000. Who else besides me thinks that this guy should just get to work with some quailty drivers instead of sitting around on the internet?
just a quick question... how much does overseas shipping cost for you... would it work out cheaper to say import dayton reference drivers than buying the seas aluminium drivers locally for example??? just another option.
personally I've heard 3 different 3 way's using cheapish (generally vifa) drivers and i don't like any of them... but an MTM from the same designer using higher quality drivers sounded better imo.
sure a well designed 3 way using good drivers should sound great, although "well designed" is a pretty big if for me, but then its can be pretty damn pricy, and certainly not in your 330EU budget.
IMO I would be looking at an mtm using the 7" seas metal cone or similar dayton reference with the 27TBFCG or TDFC or dayton rs28a tweeter, just because they all measure well, they arent super pricy, and enough people have used them so you should be able to get good help if you run into problems... but I haven't (yet) heard either of those... but hopefully the drivers are on a boat by now
personally I've heard 3 different 3 way's using cheapish (generally vifa) drivers and i don't like any of them... but an MTM from the same designer using higher quality drivers sounded better imo.
sure a well designed 3 way using good drivers should sound great, although "well designed" is a pretty big if for me, but then its can be pretty damn pricy, and certainly not in your 330EU budget.
IMO I would be looking at an mtm using the 7" seas metal cone or similar dayton reference with the 27TBFCG or TDFC or dayton rs28a tweeter, just because they all measure well, they arent super pricy, and enough people have used them so you should be able to get good help if you run into problems... but I haven't (yet) heard either of those... but hopefully the drivers are on a boat by now
Banned
Joined 2002
Check out scan-speak drivers, they are a bit pricey but worth every cent. especialy the mid - 13m8640. If your going to build then do it properly or not at all because later on you will wish that you had spent the extra money/ time.
I just built a pair of wall speakers for a friend using scan-speak tweet d2905-97, mid 13m0640 and peerless 831857 woofer , sealed 100litre cabinet and off the shelf 200watt jaycar x over . - They are superb. It went into a multi channel system so there was a direct comparison with some other B&W speakers that cost a lot more and the "home made speakers were not just better but much, much better.
This gives me the drive to "keep on building" its the only way to go.
I just built a pair of wall speakers for a friend using scan-speak tweet d2905-97, mid 13m0640 and peerless 831857 woofer , sealed 100litre cabinet and off the shelf 200watt jaycar x over . - They are superb. It went into a multi channel system so there was a direct comparison with some other B&W speakers that cost a lot more and the "home made speakers were not just better but much, much better.
This gives me the drive to "keep on building" its the only way to go.
The 200 watt RMS jaycar x overs are 12 db/octave roll off, 8 ohms, x over frequencies - 1200hz and 5 Khz.
The mid range driver has a 4.5 litre sealed box built into a 105 litre sealed base box .
Both boxes are filled with 650gsm acrylic speaker damping material and lined with heavy foam carpet underlay.
The boxes are built out of 25 mm mdf board which is glued, screwed, braced where needed and generous quantities of acrylic sealant applied to all corners.
The internal cable is soundlink 11 awg ( 504 strands x 0.1mmx 2)oxygen free copper, soldered to the x over and gold spade lugs ( for the speaker conections ) soldered as well.
The speaker cloth frame is 42 x 19 mm meranti glued, screwed, the sharp edges routered off, sanded, speaker grill clips fitted and material stapled on.
The size / dimensions of the box depend on the wall/ ceiling cavity available or the intended use/ final placement. as far as I understand as long as the height, width and depth are all different it should be ok.
I have been gradualy developing this speaker over years by trial and error. A friend realy liked them so we set to work building a pair to go into his living room wall - he is very happy.
Hope this helps.
PS- the best thing about wall / ceiling speakers is that you do not have to spend days on the external box finish and months listening to your wife complain about how much space they take up.
The mid range driver has a 4.5 litre sealed box built into a 105 litre sealed base box .
Both boxes are filled with 650gsm acrylic speaker damping material and lined with heavy foam carpet underlay.
The boxes are built out of 25 mm mdf board which is glued, screwed, braced where needed and generous quantities of acrylic sealant applied to all corners.
The internal cable is soundlink 11 awg ( 504 strands x 0.1mmx 2)oxygen free copper, soldered to the x over and gold spade lugs ( for the speaker conections ) soldered as well.
The speaker cloth frame is 42 x 19 mm meranti glued, screwed, the sharp edges routered off, sanded, speaker grill clips fitted and material stapled on.
The size / dimensions of the box depend on the wall/ ceiling cavity available or the intended use/ final placement. as far as I understand as long as the height, width and depth are all different it should be ok.
I have been gradualy developing this speaker over years by trial and error. A friend realy liked them so we set to work building a pair to go into his living room wall - he is very happy.
Hope this helps.
PS- the best thing about wall / ceiling speakers is that you do not have to spend days on the external box finish and months listening to your wife complain about how much space they take up.
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