Also got different tweeter from the plans, this is a scanspeak d2008, second hand to keep price down, I looked it up and doeaint look like this?? any one any ideas? it doea have the part number on it.
Hi Mac, looking good so far, where abouts are you in Glasgow... (I stay in Denistoun)Cabinets are looking nice by the way, the oak inlay is a pleasant touch and you could make a feature of the ply strips that show on the corners??
hi doogyscoot, I'm in East Kilbride, I did think about leaving the ply showing but with the build up of paint on the MDF I thought it wouldint look right, I think if I had left the ply sticking out 5 mm then planed it flat to the surface..? maby try it on the next set.
Hi DJMAC
The crossover will only be optimum with the MDT30, though there is no harm in trying the Scanspeak unit, especially if it is interchangable with the Morel (sizewise).
Crossover components are available at Wilmslow Audio simply. There are many other outlets in the UK.
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/catalog/
Nice cabs. Well done so far.
The crossover will only be optimum with the MDT30, though there is no harm in trying the Scanspeak unit, especially if it is interchangable with the Morel (sizewise).
Crossover components are available at Wilmslow Audio simply. There are many other outlets in the UK.
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/catalog/
Nice cabs. Well done so far.
Thanks dublin, I dont no much about crossovers and I couldint afford the morel tweeters so managed to get the scanspeak units second hand, I would like to modifiy the crossover to match the scanspeak tweeters but I wouldint no where to start.
DJMAC said:
I use the hard dome tweeters from Maplin at £4-99 in my disco.
I use 6 in series to get the power handling I need.
These tweeters dont need a crossover.
Can anyone give me some advice on what to change on the crossover to make it suit the d2008 tweeter?
I would stick the Scans on Ebay, or sell here (Trading Post), you will probably get £50 for them (half price).
A new set of Morels will set you back £75.
For the sake of £30 you will have a proven design and will save yourself a lot of time. You could easily blow £30 by changing XO components over until you find the correct values (which you may never manage).
As I said before, there is no harm in trying the Scans with the crossover that is published, now that you have them.
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/pdf/morel/eltim/york_eng.pdf
P.S. If you want to include large photos put
A new set of Morels will set you back £75.
For the sake of £30 you will have a proven design and will save yourself a lot of time. You could easily blow £30 by changing XO components over until you find the correct values (which you may never manage).
As I said before, there is no harm in trying the Scans with the crossover that is published, now that you have them.
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/pdf/morel/eltim/york_eng.pdf
P.S. If you want to include large photos put
Thanks dublin, I didint relise I would have to try out possibily lots of different crossover parts, I thought it would be more straight forward than that. I think I might have to use the scanspeak because I'v already cut the holes and the morel is 2mm bigger, Your right should of stuck to the morel for the sake of a few quid.
It is easy enough to sand/file out the holes to make them 2mm larger.
It is making them smaller that is hard.
It is making them smaller that is hard.
The holes are not a problem its the recess, do you mean to sand that out? IMO I think it would be to difficult to get the same finish as the router. If i had'nt glued the baffle on i could of used the router. Correct me if i'm wrong.
cheers mac
cheers mac
I once routed a round plug (stepped) and glued that in the original speaker hole, then re-cut the hole to a different size. It is easier to do than it sounds.
Hello DJMAC
Yes you are correct - It is difficult to make a neat job of widening the recess for flush mounting.
If you have to, you can. You should make a jig (a hole of the correct size) with another piece of wood and clamp it over; then you can either sand/file up to the jig (at the correct depth), or use the router again with a roller bit (see below) which is more expense, or do the same thing very carefully with a normal bit (still using the jig).
Yes you are correct - It is difficult to make a neat job of widening the recess for flush mounting.
If you have to, you can. You should make a jig (a hole of the correct size) with another piece of wood and clamp it over; then you can either sand/file up to the jig (at the correct depth), or use the router again with a roller bit (see below) which is more expense, or do the same thing very carefully with a normal bit (still using the jig).
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