oh that makes sense. yeah just route the countersunk hole then jigsaw the rest.. good idea. hate the dust!
sorry i am not following close enough.. dietary and medicinal changes today (for the good -- off insulin as of yesterday) -- health is improving rapidly so that;s a good thing.
True.... Though being pedantic I'd say the error is proportional to the "lean" error in the pin hole. And only the back 1/2 thickness would have any error built in. Using a perpendicular guide or a bench drill can help.
Totally agree, just going by the OPs previous comments, I assumed she has limited tools which typically means no drill press. I personally like your idea.
I route all the way through in all but 3 or 4 places. In these places I leave a small web of timber about 3mm thick and 10mm wide. These webs hold the waste piece securely in place. I then cut out the waste piece with a small hand saw. Flip the piece over and remove the remainder of the webs with a bearing top flush trim bit on the router. Or, since it will never be seen, just remove it with a rasp or file.
I had to adjust one value by 1.01mm in the OpenSCAD file for this circle cutting jig. Re-printed it and tested it: right on the money now.
I've made the OpenSCAD file available for free on Thingiverse at:
Customizable Circle Cutting Jig for Harbor Freight Trim Router by JenniferG - Thingiverse
It only costs like 75 cents to $1.50 to print (depending on how much you pay for your roll of PLA.. I buy the cheap stuff for jobs like this).
It's for the Harbor Freight $30 trim router.
I saved like $140 despite it being a single purpose jig. Because the Jasper jig is $40 and I'd have to buy a router that the Jasper jig fits which would cost me like another $100. So I rather print a new jig for 75 cents for each particular job I do (don't do many of these jobs ever) .. no biggy.. I can print like wya over 100 jigs and still save money 🙂 I'll probably only end up ever printing a handful more in my lifetime anyways.
Enjoy 🙂
I've made the OpenSCAD file available for free on Thingiverse at:
Customizable Circle Cutting Jig for Harbor Freight Trim Router by JenniferG - Thingiverse
It only costs like 75 cents to $1.50 to print (depending on how much you pay for your roll of PLA.. I buy the cheap stuff for jobs like this).
It's for the Harbor Freight $30 trim router.
I saved like $140 despite it being a single purpose jig. Because the Jasper jig is $40 and I'd have to buy a router that the Jasper jig fits which would cost me like another $100. So I rather print a new jig for 75 cents for each particular job I do (don't do many of these jobs ever) .. no biggy.. I can print like wya over 100 jigs and still save money 🙂 I'll probably only end up ever printing a handful more in my lifetime anyways.
Enjoy 🙂
Good job on the saving Jennifer. Also nothing more fun that designing and making our own solutions. 🙂 That's DIY...
I have to say that this is a very cost-effective solution to cutting nice rebated holes in a baffle. Having a dedicated jig like this is also great if you want to make a production run of multiple speakers. I have an old Craftsman router a friend gave me. Maybe I will make up my own jig as well. I want to build a real wood box for my XL-S one of these days and it may just be trick.
Awesome, I'm sure people on Thingiverse would love you for it 🙂
I already got like 10 downloads and 7 people that added the jig to their collection 🙂
dotneck335, I bought the Wanhao Duplicator V2 rebranded as Monoprice Maker Select V2 from Monoprice.com for $349. It's the best printer you can buy for the money, has a large community, tons of printable mods. I have done like a dozen mods to mine already. Many people say after the mods the printer performs as well as another $2000 3D printer they've used. It's a really good deal. Also the logic board is arduino mega based and firmware code is freely available. The entire printer is affordably serviceable by a person that is mechanically inclined, knows some electronics and know how to compile source code and perhaps edit a few lines.
I've had this printer only a few months now, and I think it's just about paid for itself because of so many useful prints for things around the house, electronic projects etc. One small example: I printed two pieces for my LM3886 amp I built a few weeks back (a vent and adapater plate with integrated standoffs). Printed out a few enclosures as well. A 3D printer is definitely kind of a dream machine for the electronic hobbyist; in fact I was talking to my local electronics store owner about the printer, and he's going to buy the same one, hehe. Made many other things too that aren't coming to mind at the moment. Just saved just $140 alone today not having to buy that $40 jig and $100 router.
Another example. LEM wanted like $13 for a nylon washer, including shipping, for one of their meat grinders I own. I thought that was extremely absurd price and took out my pair of affordable digital calipers, and designed my own in like 3 lines of code and printed it out for about 10 cents or less. Their washer only lasted me what like 2 years.. so after 6 years I would of paid them almost $50 for 3 pieces of nylon. Vs. like 30 cents.
Another example. LEM wanted like $13 for a nylon washer, including shipping, for one of their meat grinders I own. I thought that was extremely absurd price and took out my pair of affordable digital calipers, and designed my own in like 3 lines of code and printed it out for about 10 cents or less. Their washer only lasted me what like 2 years.. so after 6 years I would of paid them almost $50 for 3 pieces of nylon. Vs. like 30 cents.
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So I'm wondering how this GR X-LS Encore kit (about $250/pair with PE knock-down cabinets) would compare to Paul Carmody's Hitmaker MT Bookshelf Speaker Kit (about $240/pair with PE knock down cabinets). Anybody had a chance to listen to both?
PLA is technically a water soluble plastic and probably not meant for wet food appliance applications. Although making a new one every year is probably not an issue. I have heard 3D printing can be done with nylon but very tricky and stock is expensive. You would have to relearn the whole printing process form temperature profiles and head speed etc.
I forgot about making plastic circuit board standoffs which are ridiculously over priced.
I forgot about making plastic circuit board standoffs which are ridiculously over priced.
That PE kit looks like a good value too. I like Dayton woofers - they actually make some nice sounding drivers. Have not seen the aluminum cone 7in mid bass yet. The XL-S is about 90dB sensitive and I think the tweeter is a higher end model than the one in the Hitmaker. The baffle comes pre-cut with driver holes so that is a bonus for someone not wanting to make any sawdust. The XO on the XL-S Encore is pre soldered on a top notch PCB and inductors are very heavy gauge copper - probably 16ga on the main woofer coil. Resistors also appear to be higher quality units vs white wire wound cement filled ones.
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The GR website quotes an 87db sensitivity for the X-LS Encore; but still quite a bit more efficient than the Hitmaker's 82db; Indeed the GR's Peerless tweeter (T26SG, $49.90) appears to be more expensive than the Hitmaker's Peerless (BC25TG15-04*, $16.70); I'm not sure if this translates directly to quality or not, but the T26 is also 5 db more sensitive than the BC25TG (94 vs 89).
Sorry, I've been busy with some other things the past couple weeks. I will be getting on this very soon and sharing photos 🙂 Look forward to the project!
I've been toying with the idea of a 6.5 liter biamped speaker, using a FatialPro 5FE120 woofer, a Seas Prestige 22TAF tweeter, and an Xkitz X-AMP M3 amplifier/crossover. Win ISD shows it to have a little bit better bass performance (+3db @ 50 Hz) than the X-LS in the 15 liter box, although slightly (1.9db SPL) less efficient. The driver cost between the X-LS and this combination is virtually the same (~$80); the smaller 6.5 liter box is a little less expensive ($25 vs $40) than the 15 liter box. Does anyone have experience with these drivers?
(Apologies for threadjacking!)
(Apologies for threadjacking!)
Take a look at this thread, looks like a couple guys recommend the 120 and 100 of those woofers. He has measurements in 0.25/ft3 at 1m too (very close to manu spec sheet)
[/HTML]Paging "Navy Guy" Please answer the pink customer phone Re: 5FE120 - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
bamboo plywood. The bamboo comes at a price, is hard to work, and to get the best cosmetics one needs to take more care with the joinery.
dave
I've built many many speakers and those PAWOs are ones I always wanted to build be never got around to. I still love the looks of those in Bamboo.
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