OK, I have had numerous plans... I mean TONS. I have one right now that will be great... but first I have to become a MASTER carpenter... so it will have to wait. Oh ya... it will also cost WAY more than I have now... so it waits, like I said.
Anyway, I have begun construction of a sonosub. 😀 😀
I am using 16" wide sonotube with 18" end caps (top and bottom floor plate). The bottom of the sub is flush with the outside of the pipe for covering purposes. I also have included an interesting option... the woofer will be DPL12 when I order it (awaiting allocation of funds). My port is the intereting thing... it will be 4"x20 something (wanted to use 5" port, but Lowes doesn't carry 5" PVC) so I have to reconfig for 4". Of course, the vent mach will be higher than I want (.16 or higher probably 🙁 ) which will not be good at all... but it will be ok, right? Anyway... my interesting thing: the port has a threaded exit hole where it can be sealed off with a plug for a music sub. Then for movies, unscrew the plug and bam! 16Hz tuning. 😀 Sound ok?
Well, right now, the end caps are in so the tube can expand a little (they are snug). Holes are drilled for ports, but not for woofer. Anyone know the measure of a DPL12 inside? Thanks
Well... that's it for now. Later all. 🙂
Anyway, I have begun construction of a sonosub. 😀 😀
I am using 16" wide sonotube with 18" end caps (top and bottom floor plate). The bottom of the sub is flush with the outside of the pipe for covering purposes. I also have included an interesting option... the woofer will be DPL12 when I order it (awaiting allocation of funds). My port is the intereting thing... it will be 4"x20 something (wanted to use 5" port, but Lowes doesn't carry 5" PVC) so I have to reconfig for 4". Of course, the vent mach will be higher than I want (.16 or higher probably 🙁 ) which will not be good at all... but it will be ok, right? Anyway... my interesting thing: the port has a threaded exit hole where it can be sealed off with a plug for a music sub. Then for movies, unscrew the plug and bam! 16Hz tuning. 😀 Sound ok?
Well, right now, the end caps are in so the tube can expand a little (they are snug). Holes are drilled for ports, but not for woofer. Anyone know the measure of a DPL12 inside? Thanks
Well... that's it for now. Later all. 🙂
G'day trespasser_guy,
I used the Shiva in a dual sealed / ported arrangement. I also went with 4" pipe.
It does make a little bit of noise, but with the port vented to the rear of the enclosure (I made a boring MDF box) and at high excursion the music (and room effects 🙂 drown out any minor huffing.
I would have preferred 5" pipe but the 4" is all I could get. I got a threaded "base" that I uPVC'd onto the PVC pipe. My Shiva is either a 38Hz sealed, or 22Hz ported. (I can tell a slight efficiency increase and bass extension with the cap off the port - but not significant - since it is in the corner and gets a fair amount of room / corner loading).
I don't know about 16Hz tuning - you might get more usable power handling if you tune to 20Hz or something. I personally think infrasonic handling on a sub is wasted - a) you can't hear it and b) you need to move A LOT more air to feel it than 1 12" driver (even a high excursion one) permits.
Make sure you model the excursion with max expected power input (you didn't say what you were intending to power it with). No point tuning a sub to 16Hz if it is excursion limited above that.
I can't help you with DPL12 dimensions (unlike the other DIY drivers, Adire doesn't have a whitepaper on its site I see...)
Cheers,
David.
I used the Shiva in a dual sealed / ported arrangement. I also went with 4" pipe.
It does make a little bit of noise, but with the port vented to the rear of the enclosure (I made a boring MDF box) and at high excursion the music (and room effects 🙂 drown out any minor huffing.
I would have preferred 5" pipe but the 4" is all I could get. I got a threaded "base" that I uPVC'd onto the PVC pipe. My Shiva is either a 38Hz sealed, or 22Hz ported. (I can tell a slight efficiency increase and bass extension with the cap off the port - but not significant - since it is in the corner and gets a fair amount of room / corner loading).
I don't know about 16Hz tuning - you might get more usable power handling if you tune to 20Hz or something. I personally think infrasonic handling on a sub is wasted - a) you can't hear it and b) you need to move A LOT more air to feel it than 1 12" driver (even a high excursion one) permits.
Make sure you model the excursion with max expected power input (you didn't say what you were intending to power it with). No point tuning a sub to 16Hz if it is excursion limited above that.
I can't help you with DPL12 dimensions (unlike the other DIY drivers, Adire doesn't have a whitepaper on its site I see...)
Cheers,
David.
Well, in WinISD, using the DPL12 in the 5.35cu.ft box tuned to 16Hz yields a 15Hz F3... linear straight down to it. I do not know its limits... all I know is that it has a 14.3mm XMAX one way. Probably not enough for 16Hz... but would it really hurt anything to tune this low? This sub's primary focus is extreme low bass- I have another sub also. I wanted this to be VERY loud at 40Hz down to 20Hz or lower, which is where my current sub lacks output. I have only a 125WRMS amp right now, but plan to build an ESP 300W sub amp sometime. I might build two and put one per voice coil. But that comes much later- I have exceeded my funding limits for this project. (you know a 4.5" hole saw is $35?! OMG...)
you cant beat physics
1x12inch(even a high excursion shiva) wont do 16hz Loud
particurly cos our ears have even less efficiency at 16hz than at higher bass frequencies..
perhaps 2xjbl 2245s tuned to 20hz(94db efficient)
but theyre probably 1000$ ea.(and 6cu ft ea)
input the power you have in winisd..Add room gain,minus compression,your probably left with the same spl like 107db at 20hz
with high power ,the speaker may unload at the midrange when tuned realy low..i expect you can only use 300watts to keep in linear range,i forget now.
125watt-300watt= 3.2db or so -just headroom not much apparent increase in sound.
1x12inch(even a high excursion shiva) wont do 16hz Loud
particurly cos our ears have even less efficiency at 16hz than at higher bass frequencies..
perhaps 2xjbl 2245s tuned to 20hz(94db efficient)
but theyre probably 1000$ ea.(and 6cu ft ea)
input the power you have in winisd..Add room gain,minus compression,your probably left with the same spl like 107db at 20hz
with high power ,the speaker may unload at the midrange when tuned realy low..i expect you can only use 300watts to keep in linear range,i forget now.
125watt-300watt= 3.2db or so -just headroom not much apparent increase in sound.
Why spend that much on a hole saw? Use a jigsaw instead. As long as you have a good compass and a lot of patience, you can cut very nice circles with a jigsaw (even with a small diameter like 4.5")
Dave.
Yes... I know. But, my carpentry advisor said I should go ahead and buy it because it was more precise.
Well, as of now, the driver has been ordered and the tube is stretching and shaping to become 16" again. I will buy some fabric and polyester stuffing soon, and line the walls and tube. In ordered the DPL12... hope it was a wise decision.
On a binding post issue... does Lowe's sell anything that I could possibly use for a copper binding post? I cannot seem to find anything in the copper area, and RadioShack only sells Nickel plated binding posts, and I would prefer that they be better than Ni. Gold is acceptable, but I cannot order any more off the internet, so it has to be locally available.
And finally... is the 16Hz tuning point I had picked out just horrific? Will it cause any problems? I want this sub for low bass impact in movies, but I will use it for music and everything. Will it work well in this setup? Once I get the pipe in there, it is in there. (will probably fiberglass it in)
Thanks all 🙂
Well, as of now, the driver has been ordered and the tube is stretching and shaping to become 16" again. I will buy some fabric and polyester stuffing soon, and line the walls and tube. In ordered the DPL12... hope it was a wise decision.
On a binding post issue... does Lowe's sell anything that I could possibly use for a copper binding post? I cannot seem to find anything in the copper area, and RadioShack only sells Nickel plated binding posts, and I would prefer that they be better than Ni. Gold is acceptable, but I cannot order any more off the internet, so it has to be locally available.
And finally... is the 16Hz tuning point I had picked out just horrific? Will it cause any problems? I want this sub for low bass impact in movies, but I will use it for music and everything. Will it work well in this setup? Once I get the pipe in there, it is in there. (will probably fiberglass it in)
Thanks all 🙂
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