Hi Soundhappy 🙂
I replaced muse 100uf bp with 2 silmicII, like my other cd50 i bought modded they did the same but with cerafine. One electro cap is hidden under the larger Elna tonerex 6800uf capacitor, it is 470uf SilmicII , and was too large to fit in the small psu area 🙂
Hi Danico 🙂
Thank you, the messy solder work was around the diodes i had trouble getting them out. I worry the buzz from one speaker only, the TDA could be fried 🙁 i hope it is okay
Hi MaccAu,
The dac can take some abuse, so hopefully they are still alive.
you should check around the output and the dac. voltages are ok?
Tracing the problem is time assuming.
The dac can take some abuse, so hopefully they are still alive.
you should check around the output and the dac. voltages are ok?
Tracing the problem is time assuming.
Hi Danico
Buzz from both speakers, so DAC is ok
voltages are
00.9, 01.4 and right chan -53, settled down -00.6, 01.1 abouts for both
OK.
I have thought about the 5V,-5V and -15V on the dac.
also check the 3 wire from 7220 if they are correctly wired and for continuity with a DMM meter.
buzz happens when there is no clock signal or no -15V on dac.
I have thought about the 5V,-5V and -15V on the dac.
also check the 3 wire from 7220 if they are correctly wired and for continuity with a DMM meter.
buzz happens when there is no clock signal or no -15V on dac.
pin 1 Wordclock
pin 2-4 BCK this one might have a cold joint. according to your first picture.
pin 3 data
I would just resolder all with fresh solder after you cleaned the pins.
Dont overheat them though.
pin 28 5V
pin 26 -5V
pin 15 -15V
pin 2-4 BCK this one might have a cold joint. according to your first picture.
pin 3 data
I would just resolder all with fresh solder after you cleaned the pins.
Dont overheat them though.
pin 28 5V
pin 26 -5V
pin 15 -15V
Cd50 no power but burnt smell
I put the caps out of my other CD50 into my working modded CD50 which I bought sometime ago. Upon power up nothing and no sound so next i took the cover off and can smell a burnt smell?🙁😕
Any ideas?
Also has anyone got any up modded photos of the CD50,40 or 60 with the same PCB so I can see if the cap and diode direction is corrent, thanks Sam 🙂
I put the caps out of my other CD50 into my working modded CD50 which I bought sometime ago. Upon power up nothing and no sound so next i took the cover off and can smell a burnt smell?🙁😕
Any ideas?
Also has anyone got any up modded photos of the CD50,40 or 60 with the same PCB so I can see if the cap and diode direction is corrent, thanks Sam 🙂
Sound like you soldered a cap in the wrong position (reversed?)...
Look at the state of the fuse as well...
If the transforer is not burned, look at top or base of the main caps to look for if there is a breaked caps. You can have to change rectifier, main caps, regulator after... without guaranty !
Look at the state of the fuse as well...
If the transforer is not burned, look at top or base of the main caps to look for if there is a breaked caps. You can have to change rectifier, main caps, regulator after... without guaranty !
Hi Ray and Eldam
Thank you for the reply ahd help.
I cant see any damage to the caps apart from one where its pins are twisted, I think the fuse looks okay, maybe its the tincan opamps? maybe they dont suit the adaptors?
Thank you for the reply ahd help.
I cant see any damage to the caps apart from one where its pins are twisted, I think the fuse looks okay, maybe its the tincan opamps? maybe they dont suit the adaptors?
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Check the power transformer for continuity on each winding, as some have an internal fuse that can open,
rendering it useless. Check electrolytics for the correct polarity. You can use an external supply connected
after the rectifier diodes to power up the circuit for testing. The supply must be fused, or have current limiting.
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Hard to know, but I assume it is a short or what Rayma pointed out.
photo 2 : thin copper bypassed on the smd Brown cap ! A SHORT ? Check with a buzzer at the pins of this Brown smd caps if there is continuity !
Again, are you sure you have not a cap reversed in wrong position somewhere where you swaped with Elna's S II ? (Inside the black radiator for instance).
Can you smell from which aera comes the burn ?
If you have a buzzer/voltmeter, you can check some things : shorts; AC at the pins of the traffo (after having removed the op cans if you believe you made a mistake here). You can check the Dc voltage after the reg, etc...
photo 2 : thin copper bypassed on the smd Brown cap ! A SHORT ? Check with a buzzer at the pins of this Brown smd caps if there is continuity !
Again, are you sure you have not a cap reversed in wrong position somewhere where you swaped with Elna's S II ? (Inside the black radiator for instance).
Can you smell from which aera comes the burn ?
If you have a buzzer/voltmeter, you can check some things : shorts; AC at the pins of the traffo (after having removed the op cans if you believe you made a mistake here). You can check the Dc voltage after the reg, etc...
Hi Ray
Checked continuity and brown and black appear on two pins? What sort of extermal power supply. I have a power adaptor with various volts up to 12v, starting around 4v I think. I ve been trying to look at other photos of CD50s to check the direction of the caps, i can checked with the markings on the board maybe
Hi Eldam
Yes, that was desolder, couldve caused some problems. From memory the burnt smell was around the psu - opamp area, no sign of burns or bad caps. I will have to check with the meter all the capacitors.
I wonder if diodes are compatiple with the CD50, according to mouser it was an alternative to use over the old diodes
Could be a burned resistor too, so look at those carefully. Unless you have a lab supply with current limiting,
I'd not do that. If you find a reversed cap, throw it away and install a new one.
Thanks Ray, shall try to look for any signs of damaged resistor. I reversed a cap, it was one of the silmicII 220uf 25 which i have about 10 of, i shouldved marked one, but there is no signs of damaged to the caps so i reused them. I think the direction might be correct, the service manual and markings should show that
Short circuits 🙂
* Shown pictures exactly indicate why many people don't trust modded equipment. Mediocre quality of work in this one. When caps are replaced the new ones should fit physically and they need to rest on the PCB with their rubber vents. With very large and heavier caps they even need to be secured with RTV to the PCB. The Silmics are much larger which leads to caps "hanging in the air" without mechanical connection to the PCB except for their lead wires. This puts stress on the very brittle solder pads and PCB material Philips is known for. Put the device on a table a bit too hard and PCB tracks might come loose.
Since the PCB material in these is famous for letting its tracks go it would be advisable to use adequate desoldering techniques too as this is a "one chance only" affair. This is learnt by modding the first one to death then the path to enlightenment follows 😉 I have modded many of these and it really is a question of doing stuff careful and choose parts that fit right. Opamps sockets are indeed mandatory.
AFAIK there is not a law against delivering quality work is there ?
* Shown pictures exactly indicate why many people don't trust modded equipment. Mediocre quality of work in this one. When caps are replaced the new ones should fit physically and they need to rest on the PCB with their rubber vents. With very large and heavier caps they even need to be secured with RTV to the PCB. The Silmics are much larger which leads to caps "hanging in the air" without mechanical connection to the PCB except for their lead wires. This puts stress on the very brittle solder pads and PCB material Philips is known for. Put the device on a table a bit too hard and PCB tracks might come loose.
Since the PCB material in these is famous for letting its tracks go it would be advisable to use adequate desoldering techniques too as this is a "one chance only" affair. This is learnt by modding the first one to death then the path to enlightenment follows 😉 I have modded many of these and it really is a question of doing stuff careful and choose parts that fit right. Opamps sockets are indeed mandatory.
AFAIK there is not a law against delivering quality work is there ?
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Sure 😀
+1, and if for a particular reason a bigger cap is used in horizontal position, glue it and use insulated wires towards the vias/holes !
I learned the same way, maybe more than a dozen of Philips/Marantz cd players, all TDA chips from the TDA1540 to the TDA1545... Some breaked as well (rom chip is espcially fragile with shorts 😉.
Well, luckilly there is no law against Learning, experimenting and make stock of TDA1541A chips ! One thing is sure, swapping all the caps with the same presumed better model is not a guaranty of better sound : often the opposite in fact. Don't garbadge especially the old little Nichicon SE caps (blue, like the VX grades), they can do miracles, especially the SE after the old regs 78xx/79xx !
On ne fait pas d'omelette sans casser des œufs ! But you can buy an Olive could say J-P (for the same price) 😎
+1, and if for a particular reason a bigger cap is used in horizontal position, glue it and use insulated wires towards the vias/holes !
I learned the same way, maybe more than a dozen of Philips/Marantz cd players, all TDA chips from the TDA1540 to the TDA1545... Some breaked as well (rom chip is espcially fragile with shorts 😉.
Well, luckilly there is no law against Learning, experimenting and make stock of TDA1541A chips ! One thing is sure, swapping all the caps with the same presumed better model is not a guaranty of better sound : often the opposite in fact. Don't garbadge especially the old little Nichicon SE caps (blue, like the VX grades), they can do miracles, especially the SE after the old regs 78xx/79xx !
On ne fait pas d'omelette sans casser des œufs ! But you can buy an Olive could say J-P (for the same price) 😎
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