Hello all!
If this isnt in the right place please direct me there.
A decade ago, I went on a DIY adventure. I used WinISD for modeling, and based on the advice of someone that had a few builds, and AFAIK, might have a professional background, I chose the Stereo Integrity HT 15 d4, for my project.
I went with a vented design, because with my lack of knowledge, I wanted to tune it as low as possible. Of course I would have no reference of anything other than two large subs in my front room. I think I tuned it to around 17Hz, in approximately 7 cuft. (this may be my dilemma)
I wired the drivers in series and paralleled the two boxes. Thanks to Amazon, I know what my first amp was. Until I had a dog use it as a fire hydrant. . Behringer EP4000.
I was really hoping to be thoroughly impressed with these, that has not been the case. They have made the house shake, but that is about all I notice. These things things have an XMAX around 22-25mm. I should see them moving a whole. At least I think, I should. And volume wise they suck. The current amp si Behringer inuke NU6000.
However I don"t think it working now. Ive been trying to TS it. I just noticed today, either my receiver is not sending the signal or the amp has died.
I did use one of the subwoofer test off of YT, and something was going to the subs, just no indication on the amp.
If anyone has any advice, I am all ears.
Mike
If this isnt in the right place please direct me there.
A decade ago, I went on a DIY adventure. I used WinISD for modeling, and based on the advice of someone that had a few builds, and AFAIK, might have a professional background, I chose the Stereo Integrity HT 15 d4, for my project.
I went with a vented design, because with my lack of knowledge, I wanted to tune it as low as possible. Of course I would have no reference of anything other than two large subs in my front room. I think I tuned it to around 17Hz, in approximately 7 cuft. (this may be my dilemma)
I wired the drivers in series and paralleled the two boxes. Thanks to Amazon, I know what my first amp was. Until I had a dog use it as a fire hydrant. . Behringer EP4000.
I was really hoping to be thoroughly impressed with these, that has not been the case. They have made the house shake, but that is about all I notice. These things things have an XMAX around 22-25mm. I should see them moving a whole. At least I think, I should. And volume wise they suck. The current amp si Behringer inuke NU6000.
However I don"t think it working now. Ive been trying to TS it. I just noticed today, either my receiver is not sending the signal or the amp has died.
I did use one of the subwoofer test off of YT, and something was going to the subs, just no indication on the amp.
If anyone has any advice, I am all ears.
Mike
Greets!
Need box design details since to get any loud SPL at anywhere near even just 1 kW/single box w/Stereo Integrity HT 15 d2 requires a Sd/2 vent area (Av) x 163 cm/64.17" long = ~120 dB/m/17 Hz, so don't know if these amp's can't handle the speaker's box loading = auto protection enabled or have other issues.
Need box design details since to get any loud SPL at anywhere near even just 1 kW/single box w/Stereo Integrity HT 15 d2 requires a Sd/2 vent area (Av) x 163 cm/64.17" long = ~120 dB/m/17 Hz, so don't know if these amp's can't handle the speaker's box loading = auto protection enabled or have other issues.
Assuming that you've connected them up with the correct polarity, the room, or their location in the room, might be the issue.
GM, thanks for your reply.
There could be a chance of some calculation errors when design /building box.
Just pulled the driver, to check dimensions. It is definitely over 7 cu ft. more like 9. 23.25" deep x 20.5" wide x 33.5" tall. It has a slot port. dimensions are 1.75" X 17.375" x approximately 37.375" in length..
after bracing and port displacement, I am right around 7.89 cu ft. Using the displacement of the D2, I am right at 7.7 cu ft
I probably have those files on a hard drive from my previous PC. It died, so I upgraded. Even if I had the files, if I had an error in construction it wouldn't matter to much, unless I had a copy of the driver parameters.
So, with all of this, What are my options? Seal the port? Add anything inside the box to take up volume, or both? Different/better amplification, or any combination?
Are you actually asking for help diagnosing a situation where the subs are not working at all? As in the subwoofers are doing absolutely nothing at the moment.
If that's the case, I would start by eliminating things from the signal chain and swapping in known good items to determine where the problem is.
To check the subwoofers themselves, connect them to your normal receiver L/R speaker outputs and see if they do anything.
To check to see if you have a low-level signal issue in your receiver/amp, connect a known good source (CD player or whatever) directly to the iNuke (turn the amp front panel gains all the way down first), and see if you get any sound from the subs connected this way (gradually increase the amp gain if you hear nothing at first).
Either of those tests should help you narrow down where the problem is. If I'm misreading what you have going on, sorry for the diversion.
If that's the case, I would start by eliminating things from the signal chain and swapping in known good items to determine where the problem is.
To check the subwoofers themselves, connect them to your normal receiver L/R speaker outputs and see if they do anything.
To check to see if you have a low-level signal issue in your receiver/amp, connect a known good source (CD player or whatever) directly to the iNuke (turn the amp front panel gains all the way down first), and see if you get any sound from the subs connected this way (gradually increase the amp gain if you hear nothing at first).
Either of those tests should help you narrow down where the problem is. If I'm misreading what you have going on, sorry for the diversion.
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To determine your options, you should first determine the present Fb (box tuning).
The lower the Fb, the less output from the port.
Sealing the port would reduce output, as would reducing cabinet volume.
You can use a tone generator like the one in REW, raise and lower the sine wave frequency, cone movement will be less at Fb than either higher or lower. The test won't require much power, when the NU-6000 -24dB light illuminates you should see enough movement.
If the Fb is actually 17Hz, you could shorten the port to raise the Fb, which will increase output.
That said, at only ~30 square inch, the port is undersized for drivers with 22mm (1.75" peak to peak)Xmax.
Your NU-6000 lights give an indication of it's output.
Before considering other amplification, see how much power you are using now, and what excursion that results in.
If you never see excursion approaching Xmax above Fb during use with the amp driven to full scale/limit, you might consider more power if the SPL is less than you want.
Assuming a 4ohm load, "0dB" would be ~2200 watts, "-6dB" ~550w, "-12" ~137w, "-24" about 9 watts.
A 6dB increase in power doubles excursion.
Post up what you find out.
I meant to post this earlier. must have got pulled away for honey-do's
Maybe a variety at this point! It is possible there is a signal issue that I just noticed. Although there is something happening between the amp and the subs, on the amp itself it is not showing the indication of signal like it normally does.
As far as everything else is concerned. would these drivers in these enclosures be good for music also, or mainly LFE?
I will have to see what I can find to eliminate the AV receiver. Which may also mean additional cabling
Maybe a variety at this point! It is possible there is a signal issue that I just noticed. Although there is something happening between the amp and the subs, on the amp itself it is not showing the indication of signal like it normally does.
As far as everything else is concerned. would these drivers in these enclosures be good for music also, or mainly LFE?
I will have to see what I can find to eliminate the AV receiver. Which may also mean additional cabling
Weltersys, For the REW, what do I need? I have a mic.
Am I understanding correctly, that if my volume (spl) level was at zero, the amp is capable of 2200 watts, and as I increase the volume (spl), I am effectively lowering the available wattage?
Obviously now before anything else, I need to run the REW.
Like I said this was a decade ago. Is the Fb box frequency? In order to be able to get the Fb, the driver parameters, port dimensions, and actual box dimensions are needed. Right or wrong or missing important details.
I would start new and just go with what the recommended enclosure size was instead trying to manipulate things to achieve a lower frequency.
Even though I thought I understood the WinISD, I must have not.
I hope I am making sense , and that I am understanding all that you guys are sharing. I am not giving, just trying to find the right guidance.
Am I understanding correctly, that if my volume (spl) level was at zero, the amp is capable of 2200 watts, and as I increase the volume (spl), I am effectively lowering the available wattage?
Obviously now before anything else, I need to run the REW.
Like I said this was a decade ago. Is the Fb box frequency? In order to be able to get the Fb, the driver parameters, port dimensions, and actual box dimensions are needed. Right or wrong or missing important details.
I would start new and just go with what the recommended enclosure size was instead trying to manipulate things to achieve a lower frequency.
Even though I thought I understood the WinISD, I must have not.
I hope I am making sense , and that I am understanding all that you guys are sharing. I am not giving, just trying to find the right guidance.
Trying to get acquainted with REW.
Do I need to download ASIO4ALL in order to test sub levels, or is JAVA all that would be needed?
Do I need to download ASIO4ALL in order to test sub levels, or is JAVA all that would be needed?
You only need a sound card to use the noise generator.
No, if the gain controls are set to zero, the amp won't amplify the input voltage.
The amp can be driven to full power at any input gain setting, just requires more input voltage.
Yes, Fb is the frequency of the box tuning.
No, the Fb (Helmholtz resonance) will be the same regardless of the driver used, and is what it is with your box.