My "audiophile" LM3886 approach

Well, I am doing a kit for the RevCs. I think the kits will have everything for all three versions.

I plan on getting the BOM and sourcing ready this weekend.

I talked to Russ about this, and think I will try to offer a kit to the beta testers, or maybe just the parts they are missing (I know some of you have some of the parts apready). It would be a good way to test out the parts selection before a large buy.

I'll post more info sometime this weekend (got a bunch of code to write by tomorrow).
 
Mauro Case is back!

My mate has done a great job putting this together, now I better get on with finishing it.

Photo of the new case sitting under my Russ White Freebird preamp and on top of the slowly-getting-replaced 'legacy' hifi gear :)
 

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Sorry to be annoying, but for the people brand new around here. Can I get a little summary of what's going on?
It seems BrianGT (?) and Russ are offering kits on their own kickass amps, are these available internationally?
I'd be very interested, if I could get one here. But alas, being a poor student, low budget, how much do they cost roughly (as a kit or just PCB/Opamps)?
Cheers all,
--Nathan

P.S. Sorry if this is the wrong place for the post, wasn't sure where to put it :xeye:
 
BrianDonegan != BrianGT

BrianGT sells some nice kits for chip amps through chipamp.com.

Russ and I are partnering for kits for a chip-based amp based on Mauro Penasa's designs (with his blessings of course). Russ if making boards and I am putting together kits.

If I had to guess, our stuff will be about $70 for pair of mono boards and a parts kit. This is just a guess at this point. Shoudl know more in the coming weeks.
 
Not really low cost

MunkeeVegetable said:
Sorry to be annoying, but for the people brand new around here. Can I get a little summary of what's going on?
It seems BrianGT (?) and Russ are offering kits on their own kickass amps, are these available internationally?
I'd be very interested, if I could get one here. But alas, being a poor student, low budget, how much do they cost roughly (as a kit or just PCB/Opamps)?
Cheers all,
--Nathan

P.S. Sorry if this is the wrong place for the post, wasn't sure where to put it :xeye:


This hobby is more for the cheap, not the poor. It would be hard to build one of these for less than 150.00 USD. That is using a cheap box and transformer to go with generic parts. If you already have some of the parts needed it might get built for less.
It is easy to end up with 200.00 - 250.00 in one. That should buy a big amp at the local consumer electronics store.
If sound quality is important though, it is 250.00 well spent. The sound quality is very good. Doubt if the local consumer electronics store sells anything that sounds as good.


George
 
homer09 said:
i second panelhead. gainclones are not really cheap, but they are definitely relatively cheap.

oh, and if anything, "brian style" gainclone will be cheaper to build because of its much shorter part list.


Yes but as panelhead also said, its not really the(electronic) parts that are expensive. Well unless you go hog wild, or buy $800 wire and volume knobs :)

Actually to me the biggest investment is time, but really its fun-time so hey its well worth it. :D

Cheers!
Russ
 
Russ,

Will the monoblock PCB be flush with the 3886 at the back, or overhanging like it is in My_Ref?

I didn't realise this until after I had populated the board and my layout is a little compromised because of it and a communication error trying to solve another unrelated issue with the case...

My 3886's heatsink surface hangs below the actual heatsink by 3-4mm. I can rectify this, but not this weekend, and I'm away next week. Do you think it will run ok like this? The chip is temp protected, right? So if it's not thermally happy it will cut out.

Michael
 
Do not try

maf_au said:
Russ,

Will the monoblock PCB be flush with the 3886 at the back, or overhanging like it is in My_Ref?

I didn't realise this until after I had populated the board and my layout is a little compromised because of it and a communication error trying to solve another unrelated issue with the case...

My 3886's heatsink surface hangs below the actual heatsink by 3-4mm. I can rectify this, but not this weekend, and I'm away next week. Do you think it will run ok like this? The chip is temp protected, right? So if it's not thermally happy it will cut out.

Michael


I have been told that the chip will fail quickly if not heatsinked. The thermal protection has a time delay, it will not shut down quick enough to prevent permanent damage.
Think I read they will blow out the back on failure.

George
 
maf_au said:
Russ,

Will the monoblock PCB be flush with the 3886 at the back, or overhanging like it is in My_Ref?

I didn't realise this until after I had populated the board and my layout is a little compromised because of it and a communication error trying to solve another unrelated issue with the case...

My 3886's heatsink surface hangs below the actual heatsink by 3-4mm. I can rectify this, but not this weekend, and I'm away next week. Do you think it will run ok like this? The chip is temp protected, right? So if it's not thermally happy it will cut out.

Michael

The issue you are dealing with (PCB and chip not flush) is only on the REV A boards (which I did not design). I am not sure if it is an issue with manufacturing or in the gerbers. In any case I am not sure if it was intentional or not...

I built a few of those boards and I did a couple of things to handle the offset:

1) I cut a 3/32 slot the length of the heatsink at the same height as the standoffs. Which works very well.

2) Take the chip end of the PCB to a belt sander until its flush.


The monobloc REVC(A&B) boards that I did design should not have this "feature". :) They are designed to sit flush to the HS when the back of PCB is touching the HS.

I would get all the HS contact you can, you don't want to fry em. :)

Cheers!
Russ
 
Thanks guys, that was what I was worried about.

Good to hear the monoblocks won't have that feature.

I'll spend the time to get everything else sorted neatly, and get the holes adjusted when I get back before I power it on.

Times like this, be nice to have a drill press!

Michael
 
Thanks guys, really looking forward to getting some funds together and building something now :D
Is there an FAQ or tutorial on here somewhere I've managed not to see? Explaining the purposes of the diff. bits?
I've just been looking at some of the various amp designs and PCBs people have made. Wow, talk about DIY professionalism :D
I'm certainly very impressed.
Anyways, I'll keep a look out. When I get some money I'll probably be buying some groovy kits.
Cheers guys,
--Nathan
 
Ok, that's it from me, it's starting to come together. See pic.

Toroid cabling check question:

I have this toroid:

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=M5525

On the My_Ref PCB, there are 4 connections:

PL3 Gnd
PL4 Gnd
PL5 24va1
PL6 24va2

The toroid secondaries are paired Red & Black, White & Orange.

I see that PL4 and PL5 (Gnd) are on the same PCB trace. Should I connect:

Red = PL5
White = PL3
Black PL4
Orange PL6

Thanks,

Michael
 

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maf_au said:
Ok, that's it from me, it's starting to come together. See pic.

Toroid cabling check question:

I have this toroid:

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=M5525

On the My_Ref PCB, there are 4 connections:

PL3 Gnd
PL4 Gnd
PL5 24va1
PL6 24va2

The toroid secondaries are paired Red & Black, White & Orange.

I see that PL4 and PL5 (Gnd) are on the same PCB trace. Should I connect:

Red = PL5
White = PL3
Black PL4
Orange PL6

Thanks,

Michael

Michael, you are correct. :) Wire as you said.

That Toroid should work great.

Cheers!
Russ