My 4" Lcd Project, Results

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#21
Nice job Marco!

My setup would be pretty much same. I will use 5" psone LCD, and halogen lamp. How big is your screen? In your screen shot, it appears that the room lights are turned on. Amazing that it still shows the image.
 
#22
Thanks buddy!

My image is around 70" diagonal.. The lights where on when I took the picture!

Wach out about using halogen light, I was using a 250w floodlight halogen and it was like a oven..too hot! So I decidedto move to dichroic lighting, cheap, usable, low heat, low consumption and good lumens! I'm currently using a 7800LM bulb, but I've found an impressive 16.000 LM 45W dicroic lamp I'm gonna buy soon!

:bawling: Unfortunately I burnt the controller card of my lcd panel..bad short circuit.. so now I have to buy a new monitor! I will go on a 5.6" TFT (not STN) with remote ecc.. I will post new pictures with new lamp and new lcd soon!

Keep on working guys!
:smash:
 
#25
I've sent you an email!😀

RYAN:
Hey, have you tried out the 2 bulbs solution yet? Keep me updated! Can you post some pics of your setup?

I've just ordered a new LCD, 330.000 pix reso, 5,6".. autoreverse function OSD menu and remote! WONDERFUL!! I'm looking foward to receive it and mount it on my prj...

:devilr:
 
#28
Just FYI Marco,

Is it controller board or LCD panel which you burn? Is it because of extreme heat from the work light?

If your board is burnt because of high voltage or opposite polarity current, you may be able to fix it by replacing fuse. You can first try to locate fuse on the controller board. It is usually close to power input. They usually look like white rectangle. If you have multimeter, check whether you get correct voltage after the fuse. If you don't, chances are burnt fuse. Temporary solution would be bypassing fuse with wire, but it is not recommended since it can mess up whole circuit later. Replacing with same capacity fuse is the best or slight higher. I hope this can help.

Cheers,
pangea
 
#29
It's the controller board... unfortunately is worse than it seems..I made an error with soldering power input to the board, lo there was a shortcircuit on the whole board..I can't identify the part gone..but the whole thing it's not working! so now I have a working lcd but no controller board..so that's why I bought a new lcd!

Thanks anyway for your tips!
 
#30
Heya disa, sounds to me its fixable, check your regulator, power diodes and the smd fuse, normally these things are what protects the rest of the circut from damage caused by reverse polarity. The regulator just regulates power and doesnt protect the circut, but if somthing failed to protect the regulator then i can garentee u thats what is wrong with it.

Now if you put the power on a input, then i can garentee u that its a chip thats gone as they dont normally have any protection, and are very sensitive.

Trev
 
#31
hay guys, i only just noticed the mass of posts i have missed, so lemme see no i havent tryed the 2 bulbs yet because i have no money, i'm planning on selling some stuff on ebay so i can then buy a lilliput lcd from ebay, they go really cheap over here if your a sneeky ebayer 🙂, i will post pics at the bottom of my setup, but i warn you its no very nice at the moment, i managed to get more even light distrobution by moving the mirror, of corse in yours disa u cant do this because u dont use a mirror. hay ace i'd be interest in an lcd as i said above i intend to get a lillput but whats this 6" one you have? humm..... i think i answered everything, if i did miss anything let me know.

Cheers,
Ryan Edge

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#34
My Handycam hates the bright pic with dark room. Gotta get right settings to show the same image I see. I can go from way too bright (overexposed) to edges darkening to just too dark. LOL. Never just what I see. I gotta do more camera fiddling but this is the best I got just giving it a quick go. My other half and I both sat watching the real tv and the pj at 50" diagnal. LCD is cheapo low res., low contrast mad catz ps one panel. So cant expect miracles. Panel is soon to be upgraded. The pj was a noticable bit brighter. The tv is a 29" rca. With the polarising film I do get much better C ratio and better, brighter colors without bleeding or white washout. At the cost of a few lumens-nothing is free.😀
 

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#35
Notice how in above pic the top right edge just darkens a smidge. Welp that isnt there when you look at it. It has to do with my powderd high gain white screen and the lense of camera seeing less then our two eyes vs. its one lense. Anyhow as I move camera the dark area moves of couse-but to our eyes its evenly lit. Some camera guro's need to give us some tips here! I think digital cameras ar ethe problem. Gonna take real film im afraid.:dead:

This one is how overexposed it can be. Note same pj setup-camera on tripod and only brightness setting changed.
 

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#36
Rest assured a 250watt halo can be cool and well...... bright. Only about 8" from bulb to panel and yet just barley warm. Id say 90F. One 50cfm blower, but its a quiet large finned one. 250watt 25o 2" Dichrotic reflector bulb, then IR glass, then cold mirror. Pretty bright tv output you can see here-the particles you see is the dust in air illuminating from the brightness. THe mirror isnt dirty-heh.


P.S. be gentle their the first pics I tried to take. Will work on better and some of unit also.🙂
 

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#39
This one.
http://donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/enh_ansi.html
ITs a ENH bulb. That site wants too much they are really about $10'ish a bulb. Normal 250watt output is 175 hours. Energy saving mode-300 hours.😀


Ah heres a site with good prices.

http://www.bulbconnection.com/ViewItem/bcrw/itmid/308/oc/ENH/item.html

I got mine local at lighting outfit.
This bulb wont dissapear I found it by luck. Its used in DJ lighting equipment so the demand is quite high still. Wont go outta production anytime soon. There is also a bonus. The lamp holder set me back only $5 AND it will also hold a 360watt halo without changing anything. Also 2" reflector!🙂
 
#40
😀 Hey Altec, nice results!! Don't worry about the pics, they are good enough to see you've built a good projector!

I was looking at your bulb specs.. 15.000LM with 250W, good but your main problem (If I have understood) is heat! So why don't you move to 50W 16.000 LM? If you want I can send you the link! Off course, one problem is thebeam is 8° only..but adding more fresnels infront of the panel would help this out..

Anyway, you're a great DIYer! If you can, put some pics of your setup!

Ah, I'm building my final setup, very "well-looking".. I will post pictures of the Work-In-Progress tomorrow!

:smash:
 
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