My 10W Mono Single-Ended modules - D10.1

Status
Not open for further replies.
All parts were accounted for, cut, tagged, and bagged. Now we're just waiting on the PCBs 😎

This is also a good time to note that those of you who will be getting a kit should either find or acquire a pair of fine tipped tweezers to handle the surface mount parts.
 

Attachments

  • dsc01705.jpg
    dsc01705.jpg
    44.5 KB · Views: 539
If you have 20/20 vision and good lighting you shouldn't have any problems. Put down some white paper and don't breathe heavily (definitely don't sneeze!) while the parts are out 🙂 Oh watch where you lay your arms down too. Parts can stick to you and fall off anywhere they please, and once they fall on the floor they are very hard to distinguish from large dust particles (or small dust particles depending on the cleanliness of your dwelling)!

There are a total of 35 parts per board. So you'll have to solder 29 surface mount parts and 6 through hole parts per board. As you probably guessed you'll have to do this twice since there are two boards per stereo kit :devilr:

The smallest parts are 0805 size and the 7720 chip is an SO8 package.
 
Kit of parts = not for me

My eyes could never stand it ... 🙁

From your earlier posts: " ... I designed the board for a split rail configuration as opposed to their single rail design that requires input and output coupling caps for the reason you mentioned and for some others as well! One being that you can easily add a preamp stage and use the split +/-12V rails to power it. ..."

Q&A:
* What does a pre-amp for this look like ... what are you using?
* Assuming tri-amp / tri-path operation = 3 split amps instead of crossovers on 3-way speakers ... where would you be putting the crossover circuits? Right at the input?
* +/- 12 VDC rails must assume = not for mobile / auto use ... unless you use a good sized DC to DC PS ... Can do? Got suggestions?
* Any chance of completly assembled boards? (For old guys like me with poor eyesight)

:smash:
 
Hi FastEddy.

A preamp for these modules could be as simple as an op amp buffer or as complicated as you'd like. You just have to be careful to make sure the output of this stage has a low offset because the input is DC coupled.

Currently I'm using one half of a TL072 to buffer the source and drive a 50k log pot and the other half of the TL072 to provide a high impedance input for the pot and low impedance to the input of the amp. Another TL072 does the same for the other channel. It works very well, and you can of course use any kind of op amp you'd like.

For bi or tri amping you would definitely want to use active crossovers before amplifiers. You'd want something like an op amp to buffer the source and drive the filter stages, and then simply run the output of the filter stages right into the modules.

These modules weren't intended for automotive use, as their output power puts them at a disadvantage because you usually need a fair amount of power to compete with the higher noise floor in a car. You could run them in a car if you made a +/-12V switching supply. To use a single 24V supply requires the use of input and output coupling caps and a voltage divider to set the reference voltage at half the supply voltage.

If the response is good from those who will build and listen to these, then I will see about having some assembled.
 
Planet10, I'm close to Vancouver.

Those interested in me assembling their modules please email me 🙂
mike'at'vortexsoundservices.com



Listening impressions.. I'm no good at posting impressions.. 🙂

To start off, I like them! they sound very neutral, no over-emphasized bass or trebble, but there's no lack of either. Their modest power output is enough when using efficient speakers. The chips don't even get warm when running at full power.. Me like. 😀
 
Status
Not open for further replies.