Introduction
===========
Introduction of Myself - worthy of your help and mind? Some good introduction words for your expertise and diligence - your mind on cheap stuff.
Hi all. I am a new member born in the USA. I am empowered emotionally by listening to various types of music. With the internet, many types of audible creations are accessible. That is where I was able to practice for a while in a park next to the airport - Sunset Park.
Las Vegas people are nice and let me stay there for a while, supporting my musical habits such as headphones, computers, laptops, library etc. But it is difficult to do this.
I have not been the most successful person financially in life, but have had so much freedom to traverse most areas of the country on a bicycle, buses, and walking for fifteen years. I feel great by my experiences and have also had much danger. A pastime for thirty years but never really formally studying music, I want to have a better sound system. I have some music online at sound cloud, here and I like the computer science field, computer programming, discussion of economic embedded systems, and writing on my web cppux.
The project -- Why am I here?
=======================
Well as with all things, I had to work for little pay and buy each of these drivers - transducers. They are so lovely, each tap produces a warm tender feeling in my heart. The smell of the electronics, and the gleaming look at the build quality entices the eye, These drivers have very little defects and look good. They are proportioned for wattage and use. Size and frequency range is verbosely covered while detailing amount for quality are also distributed. There are better, but these I feel are good enough for broadcasts for 5000 people crowds. These will be my mains for front stage, as well two detachable or standalone will operate as a small distance listening monitor.
So without further ado, here is a list of my parts for these speakers. I am staying with a elderly Vietnam marine veteran who just had an operation, amputee. He has a wood working tools and a shed with a mattress I sleep at.
Speakers Transducers
=========================
Qty Type Model Loud speaker database
4 GRS 10SW-4 10" Poly Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm specs
2 GRS 8PF-8 8" Paper Cone Foam Surround Woofer specs
2 faital pro 6fe100 8ohm specs
2 Goldwood GT-302/S 1/2" Mylar Dome Tweeter Shielded specs
6 3.25" x 3.25" Piezo Tweeter Element DJ Speaker Car Audio Square Single Super Horn NTX-1004PZ mysterious specs
4 CES 1/2" Shielded Mylar Dome Tweeter ON 2" Square Plate
1/2" Shielded mylar dome tweeter on 2" Square plate, Rated at 25 Watts Maximum Power, 8ohm voice coil, frequency response 4kHz to 18kHz, Suggested crossover point is 4kHz/12dB
Other Components
=================
Qty
2 Dayton Audio 6k-HPF-8 High Pass Speaker Crossover 6,000 Hz 12 dB/Octave
4 2way crossovers
2 Parts Express Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 50W Mono 3/8" Shaft 8 Ohm
4 banana plug speaker terminals with plugs
Wood I have the following collected
qty
------
1 1/2" - 4' x 8' HDF board
1 1/2" - 4' x 6' hdf fimica coated board
1 1/2" - 4' x 8' large chip particle board
16 1/2" - 3" x 48" floor paneling hdf connecting boards
5 1" - 6" x 60" lace wood
3 1" - 3 7/8" x 60 lace wood
3 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" blood wood
3 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" mahogany
3 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" cherry
3 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" walnut
6 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" white oak
2 1" - 6 1/2" x 48" oak
He has several tools which work and I can use while I am helping him:
table saw
skill saw
drill with bits
table router
few hand saws
brad nail gun
hand jig saw
hammer
I have also glue and some screws for the speakers.. - screws
my thoughts are that some drivers are ported to increase db like the subs and the 8" woofers, The 6" failtal pros would be in a sealed portion of the cabinet. So I am looking for a stereo set of speakers with subs built into the bottom.
I am hoping for a small cabinet size as possible with a tight low end of at least 43, the low musical note. Or with a little help at 34hz. The main problem is the sub woofers are four ohm and would wire to be 8ohm. The other woofers incorporated how? The amplifier I have is small, 25watt/per channel. It makes a sound though. And I have another 65w sony 8ohm that is much more powerful. Most likely I will invest in a subwoofer plate amplifier like the dayton 100watt, or another type.
But for now, the focus is on getting a balanced speaker and wire system. I know very little about. And would like to tempt your ingenuity in providing a solution in build plans and wiring with what I have available.
Do you like my music? This is the most I could afford. Thanks you very much for your help. I am a good communicator and am a joy to converse with. I wanted to build these speakers so that I could play without having headphones on which become uncomfortable and do not have the feeling of room acoustics like a dance club. I live outside so these speakers will be at my tent or tepee in the desert. I was thinking of getting wheel barrel wheels so that I could cart it back and forth on my bike to the main road. That's the next step I will worry about after I find out how big it needs to be. So the driver quantities are split in to - stereo speakers. Ah those coyotes will be overjoyed at the new bass speakers I hope. What do you think?
Would you please help me or guide me with
=================================
1 - multi-wood design aesthetic covering using only gloss coat varnish and sandpaper prep.
Perhaps lace wood on the sub enclosure and blend from light to dark woods could be one design, or vertical stripes of different wood tonally arrayed. Or top, side, back and front different woods
Suggestions on a look.
2 - material size cuts of the underlying hdf
Well wood working I am new at but dedicated to getting it right. Can measure and cut square.
What is needed, bracing, design, l port on subs and tuned on 8" woofers? I am unsure but have the capability of learning and discussing it in a detailed manner.
3 - speaker placement, the design of where and distance to place the speakers
I was thinking the subs would be located horizontally in a separate chamber. On top but wired in the circuit, the rest of the speaker tower. The unit will be attached for transportation and a solid unit hopefully. Or not, what ever is a good suggestion.
4 - wiring all of the drivers up correctly. I am getting the terminal crimp connections but have a soldering iron now, very little experience in soldering but have been successful. I know there are many discussions on roads to take for wiring multiple drivers together to acheive a certain ohm rating, The ohm I am looking for is 8 for now. if four is possible, it makes my amp a little more useful as it is then rated at 59/channel.
so with 2 subs at 4ohms in the chamber, they would be wired in series so that their combined impedance is 8. Thats the connecting + from input to the + on sub 1, sub 1 + connects to sub 2 +, and sub 2 - connects to the cross over - terminal. Right?
Well then what about running the other 2 woofers, 8" ported for a +3db effeciency, from the positive and - straight, As well as the sealed 6" faital pro on the + and -. Is that all 8 ohm. And then the tweeters, how to wire. So you see, I am sure you can help someone with as little knowledge.
5) lpads are good connected to which set of speakers. I was thinking about the array of tweeters to the lpad. The cross over runs into the lpad and then wired in series the tweeters. Whats the connection diagram?
6) The balance of the speaker decible can be adjusted using eq, but I wanted to have it close. As far as I can tell the woofers and subs are the least efficient. So a kind of port for those. The 6" faital pros are loud and efficient at 91. They are also bright, the low mid-bass end on these are well complemented by the grs8 and its low flat freq response. So blending these is a good characteristic of the build. That sensitive and audible mid-base which is commonly dissected by the ear and rang with string instruments, I thought that the balancing would come about through the enclosure design plus amount of padding. But I also know that a few electronic circuits which consist of I think a resistor can be used to route power more effectively. I do not know any of the measurements, type, components or wiring for them. What is needed for these speakers? I hope not much more, but perhaps a resistance to balance the faital pros out? or what?
Conclusion
=============
I am a needy person waiting for your rely and discussion. Well mannered and tempted at making music that is fun. I have looked at many of the other items, and have found some very knowledgeable sources. Often I found within the discussion that specification on the drivers were not listed initially along with the components. So I hope that this is a well formatted document for
designer engineer to consume. It is going to be a grand experience.
===========
Introduction of Myself - worthy of your help and mind? Some good introduction words for your expertise and diligence - your mind on cheap stuff.
Hi all. I am a new member born in the USA. I am empowered emotionally by listening to various types of music. With the internet, many types of audible creations are accessible. That is where I was able to practice for a while in a park next to the airport - Sunset Park.
Las Vegas people are nice and let me stay there for a while, supporting my musical habits such as headphones, computers, laptops, library etc. But it is difficult to do this.
I have not been the most successful person financially in life, but have had so much freedom to traverse most areas of the country on a bicycle, buses, and walking for fifteen years. I feel great by my experiences and have also had much danger. A pastime for thirty years but never really formally studying music, I want to have a better sound system. I have some music online at sound cloud, here and I like the computer science field, computer programming, discussion of economic embedded systems, and writing on my web cppux.
The project -- Why am I here?
=======================
Well as with all things, I had to work for little pay and buy each of these drivers - transducers. They are so lovely, each tap produces a warm tender feeling in my heart. The smell of the electronics, and the gleaming look at the build quality entices the eye, These drivers have very little defects and look good. They are proportioned for wattage and use. Size and frequency range is verbosely covered while detailing amount for quality are also distributed. There are better, but these I feel are good enough for broadcasts for 5000 people crowds. These will be my mains for front stage, as well two detachable or standalone will operate as a small distance listening monitor.
So without further ado, here is a list of my parts for these speakers. I am staying with a elderly Vietnam marine veteran who just had an operation, amputee. He has a wood working tools and a shed with a mattress I sleep at.
Speakers Transducers
=========================
Qty Type Model Loud speaker database
4 GRS 10SW-4 10" Poly Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm specs
2 GRS 8PF-8 8" Paper Cone Foam Surround Woofer specs
2 faital pro 6fe100 8ohm specs
2 Goldwood GT-302/S 1/2" Mylar Dome Tweeter Shielded specs
6 3.25" x 3.25" Piezo Tweeter Element DJ Speaker Car Audio Square Single Super Horn NTX-1004PZ mysterious specs
4 CES 1/2" Shielded Mylar Dome Tweeter ON 2" Square Plate
1/2" Shielded mylar dome tweeter on 2" Square plate, Rated at 25 Watts Maximum Power, 8ohm voice coil, frequency response 4kHz to 18kHz, Suggested crossover point is 4kHz/12dB
Other Components
=================
Qty
2 Dayton Audio 6k-HPF-8 High Pass Speaker Crossover 6,000 Hz 12 dB/Octave
4 2way crossovers
2 Parts Express Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 50W Mono 3/8" Shaft 8 Ohm
4 banana plug speaker terminals with plugs
Wood I have the following collected
qty
------
1 1/2" - 4' x 8' HDF board
1 1/2" - 4' x 6' hdf fimica coated board
1 1/2" - 4' x 8' large chip particle board
16 1/2" - 3" x 48" floor paneling hdf connecting boards
5 1" - 6" x 60" lace wood
3 1" - 3 7/8" x 60 lace wood
3 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" blood wood
3 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" mahogany
3 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" cherry
3 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" walnut
6 1/4" - 6 1/2" x 48" white oak
2 1" - 6 1/2" x 48" oak
He has several tools which work and I can use while I am helping him:
table saw
skill saw
drill with bits
table router
few hand saws
brad nail gun
hand jig saw
hammer
I have also glue and some screws for the speakers.. - screws
my thoughts are that some drivers are ported to increase db like the subs and the 8" woofers, The 6" failtal pros would be in a sealed portion of the cabinet. So I am looking for a stereo set of speakers with subs built into the bottom.
I am hoping for a small cabinet size as possible with a tight low end of at least 43, the low musical note. Or with a little help at 34hz. The main problem is the sub woofers are four ohm and would wire to be 8ohm. The other woofers incorporated how? The amplifier I have is small, 25watt/per channel. It makes a sound though. And I have another 65w sony 8ohm that is much more powerful. Most likely I will invest in a subwoofer plate amplifier like the dayton 100watt, or another type.
But for now, the focus is on getting a balanced speaker and wire system. I know very little about. And would like to tempt your ingenuity in providing a solution in build plans and wiring with what I have available.
Do you like my music? This is the most I could afford. Thanks you very much for your help. I am a good communicator and am a joy to converse with. I wanted to build these speakers so that I could play without having headphones on which become uncomfortable and do not have the feeling of room acoustics like a dance club. I live outside so these speakers will be at my tent or tepee in the desert. I was thinking of getting wheel barrel wheels so that I could cart it back and forth on my bike to the main road. That's the next step I will worry about after I find out how big it needs to be. So the driver quantities are split in to - stereo speakers. Ah those coyotes will be overjoyed at the new bass speakers I hope. What do you think?
Would you please help me or guide me with
=================================
1 - multi-wood design aesthetic covering using only gloss coat varnish and sandpaper prep.
Perhaps lace wood on the sub enclosure and blend from light to dark woods could be one design, or vertical stripes of different wood tonally arrayed. Or top, side, back and front different woods
Suggestions on a look.
2 - material size cuts of the underlying hdf
Well wood working I am new at but dedicated to getting it right. Can measure and cut square.
What is needed, bracing, design, l port on subs and tuned on 8" woofers? I am unsure but have the capability of learning and discussing it in a detailed manner.
3 - speaker placement, the design of where and distance to place the speakers
I was thinking the subs would be located horizontally in a separate chamber. On top but wired in the circuit, the rest of the speaker tower. The unit will be attached for transportation and a solid unit hopefully. Or not, what ever is a good suggestion.
4 - wiring all of the drivers up correctly. I am getting the terminal crimp connections but have a soldering iron now, very little experience in soldering but have been successful. I know there are many discussions on roads to take for wiring multiple drivers together to acheive a certain ohm rating, The ohm I am looking for is 8 for now. if four is possible, it makes my amp a little more useful as it is then rated at 59/channel.
so with 2 subs at 4ohms in the chamber, they would be wired in series so that their combined impedance is 8. Thats the connecting + from input to the + on sub 1, sub 1 + connects to sub 2 +, and sub 2 - connects to the cross over - terminal. Right?
Well then what about running the other 2 woofers, 8" ported for a +3db effeciency, from the positive and - straight, As well as the sealed 6" faital pro on the + and -. Is that all 8 ohm. And then the tweeters, how to wire. So you see, I am sure you can help someone with as little knowledge.
5) lpads are good connected to which set of speakers. I was thinking about the array of tweeters to the lpad. The cross over runs into the lpad and then wired in series the tweeters. Whats the connection diagram?
6) The balance of the speaker decible can be adjusted using eq, but I wanted to have it close. As far as I can tell the woofers and subs are the least efficient. So a kind of port for those. The 6" faital pros are loud and efficient at 91. They are also bright, the low mid-bass end on these are well complemented by the grs8 and its low flat freq response. So blending these is a good characteristic of the build. That sensitive and audible mid-base which is commonly dissected by the ear and rang with string instruments, I thought that the balancing would come about through the enclosure design plus amount of padding. But I also know that a few electronic circuits which consist of I think a resistor can be used to route power more effectively. I do not know any of the measurements, type, components or wiring for them. What is needed for these speakers? I hope not much more, but perhaps a resistance to balance the faital pros out? or what?
Conclusion
=============
I am a needy person waiting for your rely and discussion. Well mannered and tempted at making music that is fun. I have looked at many of the other items, and have found some very knowledgeable sources. Often I found within the discussion that specification on the drivers were not listed initially along with the components. So I hope that this is a well formatted document for
designer engineer to consume. It is going to be a grand experience.
Last edited:
Look at post 6605 on this page of the 2 way thread, Is it possible to cover the whole spectrum, high spl, low distortion with a 2-way?
where the builder produced a 2 way flat to 37 hz. Not for me, I don't want to lift that much wood, but you seem to have plenty of wood.
Rather than a plate amp, the best bargain in amps these days is the mono Peavey MMA-875t, or MMA-8150t, or MMA-81502, or Crown 180-MA or 1160-MA or 280-MA. I've bought 4 of the Peaveys off Ebay, 3 worked and 1 needed a regulator IC soldered in that the repairman marked but failed to solder down. Paid from $35 to $45 for them,plus 30 to 40 freight. They are from the 1990's and may need e-caps someday. Some of the input cards are useless for line level but the RCA jack "power amp in" works.
I don't know about all those tweeters. My hearing has been tested at good to 14000 hz & I've used earplugs all my life. Most US males can't hear over 7000. So do a sweep test on good earphones before spending money on enclosures & crossovers to reach 20 khz.
Happy experimenting.
where the builder produced a 2 way flat to 37 hz. Not for me, I don't want to lift that much wood, but you seem to have plenty of wood.
Rather than a plate amp, the best bargain in amps these days is the mono Peavey MMA-875t, or MMA-8150t, or MMA-81502, or Crown 180-MA or 1160-MA or 280-MA. I've bought 4 of the Peaveys off Ebay, 3 worked and 1 needed a regulator IC soldered in that the repairman marked but failed to solder down. Paid from $35 to $45 for them,plus 30 to 40 freight. They are from the 1990's and may need e-caps someday. Some of the input cards are useless for line level but the RCA jack "power amp in" works.
I don't know about all those tweeters. My hearing has been tested at good to 14000 hz & I've used earplugs all my life. Most US males can't hear over 7000. So do a sweep test on good earphones before spending money on enclosures & crossovers to reach 20 khz.
Happy experimenting.
Last edited:
interesting,
Well the rating on the speakers are there. From what I understand it is about a few basic principles which allow one to arrive at a liter volume measurement for the box size. With tuned ports, the diameter, should be matches for the driver size. So for these I thought a three inch diameter would be appropriate, or introducing dual ports.
Do you know how to calculate the box sizes? I need help with some of that first. I have the qspeaker program, but it gives me some eniromius values. perhaps the conversion from metric is not right for something or another.
I got 3.75' cubic for a port box on the subs. Can you place two into the same enclosure?
Do not know about the 8" yet.
6" seems best suited for sealed based on the .5 qts. The port sizes I was getting on this one were very small like half an inch at a two inch port. But again, I am so new at all of the information.
Yeah, the tweeters are scary. I thought the lpad could help if it got too bright. But the necessity for electonically controlling each set individual thouth resistance might be appropiate. I guess it depends on how it sounds. The cleanest sound are from the gold wood tweeters followed closely by the ces tweeters. the peizo horns have the typical sound of an upper mid range low range tweeter musical instrument broadcast. Picks and plucks are broadcast in some detail. Not as good perhaps as the other, but balances out I
hope. I wanted to reduce these sightly using resistance while crossing over others as a filtered high at 6k on the dome and two ces tweeters.
How would you wire all of it up so that it does not blow and runs at the same impedance.
Did you get a chance to listen to my tracks? My Music
all free, just hoping to gain some more knowledge on the project. Thanks for your reply.
Well the rating on the speakers are there. From what I understand it is about a few basic principles which allow one to arrive at a liter volume measurement for the box size. With tuned ports, the diameter, should be matches for the driver size. So for these I thought a three inch diameter would be appropriate, or introducing dual ports.
Do you know how to calculate the box sizes? I need help with some of that first. I have the qspeaker program, but it gives me some eniromius values. perhaps the conversion from metric is not right for something or another.
I got 3.75' cubic for a port box on the subs. Can you place two into the same enclosure?
Do not know about the 8" yet.
6" seems best suited for sealed based on the .5 qts. The port sizes I was getting on this one were very small like half an inch at a two inch port. But again, I am so new at all of the information.
Yeah, the tweeters are scary. I thought the lpad could help if it got too bright. But the necessity for electonically controlling each set individual thouth resistance might be appropiate. I guess it depends on how it sounds. The cleanest sound are from the gold wood tweeters followed closely by the ces tweeters. the peizo horns have the typical sound of an upper mid range low range tweeter musical instrument broadcast. Picks and plucks are broadcast in some detail. Not as good perhaps as the other, but balances out I
hope. I wanted to reduce these sightly using resistance while crossing over others as a filtered high at 6k on the dome and two ces tweeters.
How would you wire all of it up so that it does not blow and runs at the same impedance.
Did you get a chance to listen to my tracks? My Music
all free, just hoping to gain some more knowledge on the project. Thanks for your reply.
I thought it might be useful to highlight this information:
If one sub requires a 3.7 cu ft box then two in the same box may require 7.4 cu ft - not exactly what I would describe as portable.
For portability reasons, the size of the stereo pair of your proposed multi-way speakers is obviously a major design issue.
If one sub requires a 3.7 cu ft box then two in the same box may require 7.4 cu ft - not exactly what I would describe as portable.
Last edited:
Something backpack portable that will have good sound is this thread:
Backpack challenge
If it is that small, it can be kept in a tent out of the rain.
Backpack challenge
If it is that small, it can be kept in a tent out of the rain.
I admit to being confused by this request! 😕
This statement: "these I feel are good enough for broadcasts for 5000 people crowds. These will be my mains for front stage" seems to be at odds with: "The amplifier I have is small, 25watt/per channel", and, "cart it back and forth on my bike to the main road".
Surely these requirements are not compatible?
This statement: "these I feel are good enough for broadcasts for 5000 people crowds. These will be my mains for front stage" seems to be at odds with: "The amplifier I have is small, 25watt/per channel", and, "cart it back and forth on my bike to the main road".
Surely these requirements are not compatible?
Audio comes first, Im a 6'1 foot 218lbs on a bike.
ahh well, dismayed. I will stick with the speakers. Carting them will be the after thought.I am not sure either about the size. I was hoping to procure some good advice on putting them all together. Anyway, I can come up with plans for transport easier.
But the dimension calculations for these specific drivers and integration of them into a audio device is what I am interested in.
I understand that the box cut off controls the size of the box. So I was thinking about getting the diminishing return point on the size. A good size for about 34 - 40. I think that 20 f3 is rather large for them.
I am oblivious to many of the speaker designs and the correct precise measurements. I guess I could learn more, but for one set of speakers I thought it would be great to just follow a set of plans for them.
Perhaps bigger wheels are needed then. No problems, plus I got two barbells to keep in shape.
ahh well, dismayed. I will stick with the speakers. Carting them will be the after thought.I am not sure either about the size. I was hoping to procure some good advice on putting them all together. Anyway, I can come up with plans for transport easier.
But the dimension calculations for these specific drivers and integration of them into a audio device is what I am interested in.
I understand that the box cut off controls the size of the box. So I was thinking about getting the diminishing return point on the size. A good size for about 34 - 40. I think that 20 f3 is rather large for them.
I am oblivious to many of the speaker designs and the correct precise measurements. I guess I could learn more, but for one set of speakers I thought it would be great to just follow a set of plans for them.
Perhaps bigger wheels are needed then. No problems, plus I got two barbells to keep in shape.
Problem 1: You're attempting to use low quality HiFi speakers to build a PA system, their construction is unlikely to be suitable for this job, and they simply aren't efficient enough.
Problem 2: The Goldwood drivers are High Q drivers, no matter what you do they will require large boxes. (Recommended box sizes for these drivers are given on the Parts Express site)
Given that, what would I do?. Use the Faital for mids, and the pair of 10" Goldwoods in an undersized sealed cabinet, wired in series, and using EQ to bring up the low bass. I'd use a pair of the piezo tweeters crossed over high, say 4KHz. Crossover would be a simple 1st order series xover, with an appropriate xover for the piezos across the Faital.
Construction: for portability, I'd use ply, well braced.
Problem 2: The Goldwood drivers are High Q drivers, no matter what you do they will require large boxes. (Recommended box sizes for these drivers are given on the Parts Express site)
Given that, what would I do?. Use the Faital for mids, and the pair of 10" Goldwoods in an undersized sealed cabinet, wired in series, and using EQ to bring up the low bass. I'd use a pair of the piezo tweeters crossed over high, say 4KHz. Crossover would be a simple 1st order series xover, with an appropriate xover for the piezos across the Faital.
Construction: for portability, I'd use ply, well braced.
Thanks for the good advice.
Yeah I thought so, The original from my order was for a pair of faital pro 6fe200 which is 95db, more of a PA midbass speaker. Instead I got the 91db woofer version the 6fe100. But they are quite beautiful for me.
So, that's some good advice on the eq. Much easier on cabinet portability. And really the numbers are not that much different for the low end. With the subs, it will be more accessible using a separate amp for the sub portion. Something I will wire later. For now, they will be used in conjunction with the other drivers.
Thanks for the info on the parts express box sizes. I did a run down on the drivers I am combining together, heres the sizes for the boxes.
GRS pf8
============
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
Sealed Volume 1.3ft³
Sealed F3 54Hz
Vented Volume 4.91ft³
Vented F3 30Hz
This speaker will provide the best performance in a sealed alignment, around 1.3ft
GRS 10SW-4 10" Poly Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm
===============================================
Recommended sealed enclosure: Vb = 1.0 ft^3, F3 = 42 Hz, Qtc: 1.17
Recommended vented enclosure: Vb = 1.5 ft^3, Fb = 35 Hz, F3 = 32 Hz
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
Sealed Volume 2.56ft³
Sealed F3 49Hz
Vented Volume 3.12ft³
Vented F3 23.3Hz
FaitalPRO 6FE100 6" Professional Midrange Midbass Woofer 8 Ohm
===============================================
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
Sealed Volume 0.46ft³
Sealed F3 87Hz
Vented Volume 1ft³
Vented F3 42Hz
Yeah I thought so, The original from my order was for a pair of faital pro 6fe200 which is 95db, more of a PA midbass speaker. Instead I got the 91db woofer version the 6fe100. But they are quite beautiful for me.
So, that's some good advice on the eq. Much easier on cabinet portability. And really the numbers are not that much different for the low end. With the subs, it will be more accessible using a separate amp for the sub portion. Something I will wire later. For now, they will be used in conjunction with the other drivers.
Thanks for the info on the parts express box sizes. I did a run down on the drivers I am combining together, heres the sizes for the boxes.
GRS pf8
============
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
Sealed Volume 1.3ft³
Sealed F3 54Hz
Vented Volume 4.91ft³
Vented F3 30Hz
This speaker will provide the best performance in a sealed alignment, around 1.3ft
GRS 10SW-4 10" Poly Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm
===============================================
Recommended sealed enclosure: Vb = 1.0 ft^3, F3 = 42 Hz, Qtc: 1.17
Recommended vented enclosure: Vb = 1.5 ft^3, Fb = 35 Hz, F3 = 32 Hz
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
Sealed Volume 2.56ft³
Sealed F3 49Hz
Vented Volume 3.12ft³
Vented F3 23.3Hz
FaitalPRO 6FE100 6" Professional Midrange Midbass Woofer 8 Ohm
===============================================
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
Sealed Volume 0.46ft³
Sealed F3 87Hz
Vented Volume 1ft³
Vented F3 42Hz
Galu, yep you are right. I will have to get a bigger amplifer. But it does make sound even with that little amp. They are big to sit in front of and play, so a low volume is nice at times. But someone mentions a specific type of peavy amplifier. What would you suggest? Plate amp of something like a pyle 750watt pa amplifer? 25watts enough. They are rather loud too. The least efficient speaker are the subs. Separate amp for them perhaps. I was thinking of the fosi audio amplifier. Something within my meagar budget.
Yes, 2x Vb, vents.
Basic T/S max flat vented alignment using the listed specs:
net volume [Vb] [L] = 20*Vas*Qts'^3.3
box tuning [Fb] [Hz] = 0.42*Fs*Qts'^-0.96
Qts' = Qts + any added series resistance [Rs]: Calculate new Qts with Series Resistor
[Rs] = 0.5 ohm minimum for wiring, so may be higher if a super small gauge is used as a series resistor
Calculated Qts = 0.439, but specs say 0.63, i.e. the specs as a whole are wrong, so used these: GRS 10SW-4 10" Poly Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Qts' = 0.861
Vb = 20*22.484*0.861'^3.3 = ~374.42 L/9.691 ft^3
Fb = 0.42*47*.861'^-0.96 = ~22.79 Hz
1.0 Qts' sealed:
a = [Qtc/Qts']^2 - 1
a = [1.0/0.861]^2 - 1 = 0.349
Vb = Vas/a
Vb = ~22.484/0.349 = ~64.42 L/2.275 ft^3
Fc = [a+1]^0.5*Fs
Fc = [0.349+1]^0.5*47 = ~54.59 Hz Fc
Not a good vented alignment overall, though could be fine in a modest SPL HIFI/HT application [app], better overall though to use sealed, but then it's tuned too high for woofer apps. :(
In between these two alignments are many to choose from since we can trade efficiency for bandwidth [BW] and vice versa depending on what trade-offs you find acceptable.
Came back to post this and now see this:
Yes, per above, quite large! Getting up into the size
With such a high Qts', a leaky vented or sealed cab will be required; that or make a very under-damped [peaking] BR and use DSP to smooth it out and probably just as well since without measuring your driver's T/S specs, no telling what the driver loading is ideally required.
So......what's your preferred max box size?
To Amarazzo777:
Sir,
I'm sure that someone here has already told you that a 5000-strong audience is definitely not going to happen. However, you may still be able to get good coverage with good quality sound for an audience of 50 people with the drivers you have, assuming full power music with momentary peaks of 6-12dB.
I admire your spirit.
Regards.
Sir,
I'm sure that someone here has already told you that a 5000-strong audience is definitely not going to happen. However, you may still be able to get good coverage with good quality sound for an audience of 50 people with the drivers you have, assuming full power music with momentary peaks of 6-12dB.
I admire your spirit.
Regards.
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First, the box. You’ll need about 50 Litres (1.77 Cu Ft, if you must use those antiquated colonial units) for both the GRS drivers, plus another 10L (0.3 Cu Ft) for the Faital. Note: The Faital requires its own internal box. A front panel of 12” wide by 32” High should accommodate all the drivers, and with an internal depth of 10”, will give the required volume. This will give a 1.5dB hump at around 88Hz, which should be OK for your style of music, and an F3 of 50Hz, which is good for PA.
2nd, the crossover. Attached is the simplest I could come up with. Notes on the parts:
C1 – a non-standard value, use 68 uF + 10 uF in parallel, they should be Bipolar, with a 100V rating
L1 – Use the best air core inductor you can afford, probably the most expensive component. Go for the lowest DC Resistance
These are designed to crossover at the Baffle Step Frequency (380 Hz), so keep your front panel at 12” overall width.
L2 – air core
C2 – polypropylene 100V
R1 & R2 use 10W rating
3rd, access to a tool shop is all very well, but if you don’t have experience with those tools, find someone to show you how to use them safely – it’s very easy to loose body parts
2nd, the crossover. Attached is the simplest I could come up with. Notes on the parts:
C1 – a non-standard value, use 68 uF + 10 uF in parallel, they should be Bipolar, with a 100V rating
L1 – Use the best air core inductor you can afford, probably the most expensive component. Go for the lowest DC Resistance
These are designed to crossover at the Baffle Step Frequency (380 Hz), so keep your front panel at 12” overall width.
L2 – air core
C2 – polypropylene 100V
R1 & R2 use 10W rating
3rd, access to a tool shop is all very well, but if you don’t have experience with those tools, find someone to show you how to use them safely – it’s very easy to loose body parts
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HI - looked only so far at the GW "subs" - seems like a real good driver.
I used Partsexpress specs and assumed a closed 2* cubic foot box (* 1 cubic foot for each driver) will be about ballpark. The drivers are in series and that eases my idea of converting that to a "3rd order closed box" as the magic capacitor value for 8 ohms is usually around 450uF. The capacitor: flattens the bump; extends the low end; and reduces excursion below cutoff. The small penalty is increased excursion in the area where the lows are extended and that comes from pulling more power from an ~constant voltage source due to lower impedance in that region/ (look at the red traces on these graphs)
Two 10 per side should move some air.
I used Partsexpress specs and assumed a closed 2* cubic foot box (* 1 cubic foot for each driver) will be about ballpark. The drivers are in series and that eases my idea of converting that to a "3rd order closed box" as the magic capacitor value for 8 ohms is usually around 450uF. The capacitor: flattens the bump; extends the low end; and reduces excursion below cutoff. The small penalty is increased excursion in the area where the lows are extended and that comes from pulling more power from an ~constant voltage source due to lower impedance in that region/ (look at the red traces on these graphs)
Two 10 per side should move some air.
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Hey Pete - can the 450uF cap I suggested for "3rd order" be incorporated in your crossover scheme? It might be best not to do it as another part to worry about.
Can he use a 3.3mH steel I-core choke in place of the air core to save money?
Partsexpress has pretty nice I-core: $5.88 for 3.5mH. If worried about saturation, then two 1.5mH (0.24 ohm dcr each) could be spaced and placed in series for a half ohm 3mH choke. That's less than 10 bucks for the woofer choke. (parallel combos could be used too - but too expensive)
Dayton Audio 1.5mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
add a 2mH for "3.5"mH and that's pretty close to your 3.3mH spec and still around $10 for both chokes
Dayton Audio 2.0mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Can he use a 3.3mH steel I-core choke in place of the air core to save money?
Partsexpress has pretty nice I-core: $5.88 for 3.5mH. If worried about saturation, then two 1.5mH (0.24 ohm dcr each) could be spaced and placed in series for a half ohm 3mH choke. That's less than 10 bucks for the woofer choke. (parallel combos could be used too - but too expensive)
Dayton Audio 1.5mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
add a 2mH for "3.5"mH and that's pretty close to your 3.3mH spec and still around $10 for both chokes
Dayton Audio 2.0mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
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There's absolutely no need to worry about the saturation of an I-shaped core. Since there's a big airgap between its ends, it's just not going to saturate, ever.
The yellow toroidal cores from scrap ATX SMPS can also make decently linear low valued inductors, if the stress is on money. I think their AL value is around 90-100nH/turn^2.
The yellow toroidal cores from scrap ATX SMPS can also make decently linear low valued inductors, if the stress is on money. I think their AL value is around 90-100nH/turn^2.
Hi Freddy, re:'can the 450uF cap I suggested for "3rd order" be incorporated " sure, why not, probably the best place for it is in series with the woofers. Either that or between the amp and the rest of the crossover.
re:'steel I-core choke' sure, it'll be cheaper, and at most volumes should be OK, I was just concerned how it would behave when driven hard; Newvirus has a good point.
re:'steel I-core choke' sure, it'll be cheaper, and at most volumes should be OK, I was just concerned how it would behave when driven hard; Newvirus has a good point.
Be sure to listen to Anthony's music, there's some nice tracks there (EDM style).
With the left-over 8" woofers, I'd make a pair of smaller speakers by adding a piezo to each of those.
With the left-over 8" woofers, I'd make a pair of smaller speakers by adding a piezo to each of those.
Here's a quick design for the GRS 8" with a piezo tweeter: This needs a largish box, I went for 40 L (1.4 Cu Ft) sealed, which will give an F3 of 49Hz, and a 1.5 dB hump at 86Hz. Both this and the previous design may need a reasonable amount of internal stuffing.
Crossover attached:
S1 is the Piezo; S2 is the GRS 8"
Crossover attached:
S1 is the Piezo; S2 is the GRS 8"
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