IT probably cracked from vibration and arc'd repeatedly to make it appear burned.
I don't know if it could cause the amp to cut out but if it's the only rectifier for either rail, it could cause the amp to drive DC to the output which could cause some amps to shut down.
I don't know if it could cause the amp to cut out but if it's the only rectifier for either rail, it could cause the amp to drive DC to the output which could cause some amps to shut down.
Last edited:
This amp has 2 MUR3040's side by side. (this is the old zr style dx amp)
No Dc on output when I checked before I took it apart.
The amp just didn't seem to have the power it had before.
I thought maybe the crossover card solder joints were the cause till I saw the burnt rectifier.
No Dc on output when I checked before I took it apart.
The amp just didn't seem to have the power it had before.
I thought maybe the crossover card solder joints were the cause till I saw the burnt rectifier.
Last edited:
To-247 is the case style in the amp. What would be considered a hardier case style?
Thanks,
Ben
I may be mistaken. It's been awhile since I've worked on these amps and may be confusing it with another amp.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- General Interest
- Car Audio
- mur3040pt options