Don't get caught up in the "ohms and watts" thing. It's vastly overrated. You must plan what you want your system to do for you, and then build accordingly. Just judging from your questions, my advice is to forget you ever heard of 1 ohm. Just remember, there is no magic involved in this. An amp either has certain capabilties or it doesn't. Ratings are a joke with some equipment. It is possible to buy a high end amp that is very conservatively rated with its actual published ratings being with the outputs running at 50% of their capabilties, for example. You may drop buy the flea market and see an amp with "similar" ratings which are not similar at all. That company may have rated that amp at a "maxed out" point with outputs saturated and distortion at some outrageous level.
Having said that, there is nothing wrong with setting up a system at 1 ohm as long as you know what you are doing, the equipment is CAPABLE, and then you use the equipment within those capabilities.
Having said that, there is nothing wrong with setting up a system at 1 ohm as long as you know what you are doing, the equipment is CAPABLE, and then you use the equipment within those capabilities.
I'm trying not to be direct because it is not my decision. I hope that helps 🙂rollin24's said:so ure saying its better to loose 3 db but the guality of the bass will make up for it?
rollin24's said:so ure saying its better to loose 3 db but the guality of the bass will make up for it?
With any respectable amp, I highly doubt the "quality" gained by running it at 2 ohm vs 1 would be even remotely audible on a subwoofer in a car, but you'll have to make up your own decision about that.
I agree with the difference in quality being virtually inaudible. But running these low ohm set-ups does not offer the results in performance that people with little experience think that they will. People think in linear terms, like double power, double SPL, and as someone already mentioned, SPL doesn't work like that. Another thing that is rarely mentioned is the damping factor of the amp is compromised by running a lower ohm set-up. This can be important if the user is interested in good tight, unmuddled bass reproduction. If sloppy bass is desired, then the damping factor can be ignored in favor of gaining a dB or 2 here and there.
The damping factor won't cause an issue until it gets very low, much lower than any respectable amp (note: I keep referring to "respectable" amps, none of my comments apply to the likes of Boss, Legacy, etc 😉), even at 1 ohm. Even then, it will only cause a slight boost in output around the speaker's resonant frequency, 1dB at the most (unless we're dealing with some horrible amp), not exactly a "tight" vs "sloppy" type of outcome.
fair enough,
so if i had 2 subs each 2 ohms, i could make them 1 ohm by wiring them parelel or 4 ohms with seriers or wire each seperate to get 2 ohms, wat would u recomend doing in the situation to get nice loud bass but also not muddy/sloppy going down to about 25hz(eg. like a monoblock/2 channel/etc)
thx
so if i had 2 subs each 2 ohms, i could make them 1 ohm by wiring them parelel or 4 ohms with seriers or wire each seperate to get 2 ohms, wat would u recomend doing in the situation to get nice loud bass but also not muddy/sloppy going down to about 25hz(eg. like a monoblock/2 channel/etc)
thx
100WRMS will fill the average room with loud music. Do you just want to listen to music in the car, or are you interested in entering competitions?
My subs are high current they need alot of power and I wanna have like loud music, but i dont want to enter competitons. because for competition you need like 20,000 watt rms minimum
I have had my music so loud I could hear it clearly from 3 houses down, and from only a couple of hundred watts.
Have you considered that 1000WRMS at 12V is over 80amps, peaks of over 160amps. You may need to consider replacing your alternator and maybe your battery, and you'll want to use very heavy cabling to make the best of such a high power system.
Just some thoughts.
Have you considered that 1000WRMS at 12V is over 80amps, peaks of over 160amps. You may need to consider replacing your alternator and maybe your battery, and you'll want to use very heavy cabling to make the best of such a high power system.
Just some thoughts.
na, for the midrange,tweeter, im only gona have like 20 watts rms or sumthing but for bass i want to put alot of power so it will actually move the woofer and play loud, i will prbrbly need to put another 2 batteries and use like 2 g.a wire
rollin24's said:na, for the midrange,tweeter, im only gona have like 20 watts rms or sumthing but for bass i want to put alot of power so it will actually move the woofer and play loud, i will prbrbly need to put another 2 batteries and use like 2 g.a wire
No offense, but that sounds like a horribly set up system. It sounds like it will turn into one of those cars you see everywhere with the music turned up so loud that all you hear is literally pure distortion coming from the front stage and a bunch of incoherent bass and trunk rattling. That's not the recipe to a decent sounding system, just so you know.
na its kool, im thinkin of a different situation were the tweeter and mids dont need much power because they have a high sensetivity, but the bigg woofers do so they can creat air movement
The efficiency of the sub should be no more than ~10dB lower than the front stage, that means it would need about 10x more power to reach the same spl. Chances are it's closer to ~6dB though, that's only 4x more power.
You definitely don't need 50x more power for the sub, unless it's going to be one of those cars I just described.
You definitely don't need 50x more power for the sub, unless it's going to be one of those cars I just described.
so if i put like that much more power to the woofers, wouldnt there just be more bass than any other sound, why would it be all distorted?
Bass only sounds right when the midrange is at the same level, which only sounds right when the treble is at the same level. I am generalising, there is lee-way, we all have preferences etc.
If the difference is great, you'll lose the midrange and you'll just have noise (rumbling). Not that there's anything wrong with that if you want that, but I wouldn't.
If the difference is great, you'll lose the midrange and you'll just have noise (rumbling). Not that there's anything wrong with that if you want that, but I wouldn't.
Bass isn't cool anymore. It was in the 90's but it's not anymore. So My suggestion is build your own amplifier... if you haven't noticed DIY makes you sexier than a rattling trunk.
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