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Don't forget in a car the space is limted like having huge speakers in a tiny room--so any speaker that sounds quiet in a large room would sound medium vol in a car.
But road noise covers up the speaker output so efficentcy does play a part in a car.But I wonder increasing the volume levels for a long period of time to over come road noise might cause permenant hearing damage[but depends how loud u play it though].
But what i dislike about car audio speakers and subwoofers is the sheer lack of quality.'Boomy' bass,'hissy' treble and 'shouty' midrange as well as other poor acoustics.
Don't forget in a car the space is limted like having huge speakers in a tiny room--so any speaker that sounds quiet in a large room would sound medium vol in a car.
But road noise covers up the speaker output so efficentcy does play a part in a car.But I wonder increasing the volume levels for a long period of time to over come road noise might cause permenant hearing damage[but depends how loud u play it though].
But what i dislike about car audio speakers and subwoofers is the sheer lack of quality.'Boomy' bass,'hissy' treble and 'shouty' midrange as well as other poor acoustics.
Re: reply
It's not the drivers so much (though a lot of the cheaper drivers are crap) it's the environment they have to work in, I've used good car drivers in the home and good home drivers in the car. The car drivers are just as easy (relatively) to get good sound from in the home as home drivers are, and home drivers in the car are just as hard to set up as car drivers are.
You'll never achieve the level of soundQ from a car that you can in the home (with the possible exception of bass extension) but it is possible to make a car sound "nice", imaging aside.
Bull said:
But what i dislike about car audio speakers and subwoofers is the sheer lack of quality.'Boomy' bass,'hissy' treble and 'shouty' midrange as well as other poor acoustics.
It's not the drivers so much (though a lot of the cheaper drivers are crap) it's the environment they have to work in, I've used good car drivers in the home and good home drivers in the car. The car drivers are just as easy (relatively) to get good sound from in the home as home drivers are, and home drivers in the car are just as hard to set up as car drivers are.
You'll never achieve the level of soundQ from a car that you can in the home (with the possible exception of bass extension) but it is possible to make a car sound "nice", imaging aside.
kan3 said:
first off show me a "half decent" 12 caraudio woofer with a 90db 1m/1w sensitivity?
why should i? im saying the reasons WHY car woofers ARE <90db efficient
yes.
xmax wasnt mentioned in both cases that i saw< perhaps it was > , so i presumed that the other woofer had enough xmax to power it at RMS power within that limit.
state your assumptions
Over generalisation. Thats what you think ,your opinion.Actual results will prove.
You are assuming tiny xmax on the other woofer?
82db 90
85db 93
88db 96
91db 99
94db 102
97db 105
100db 108
103db 111
106db 114
109db 117db
Thats the idea-smaller box! but small boxes leave inefficient woofers...
So u have a small box woofer on a large box making it peak,which is sometimes similar to a large box woofer on the same large box...
cheap in USA.expensive in NZ.My situation is not the same as yours,i cant go buy huge amplifiers at dirt cheap prices.
mikee12345 said:
and why would you want to spend 4 times as much on a sub, and then have to spend twice as much on an amp anyway?
its just stupid.. 😛well i guess before any other debate can be had you would have to provide a woofer for comparisons
"half decent" to me would suggest a woofer that costs up to $150-175 (USD 🙂 )
"half decent" to me would suggest a woofer that costs up to $150-175 (USD 🙂 )
I doubt a driver with that much cone excursion would be very good sound quality.. 😛 (did I start an arguement?😀)
Subwoofers like that mtx one are just made for spl competitions, you'd be stupid to use one for actual listening
postman said:Subwoofers like that mtx one are just made for spl competitions, you'd be stupid to use one for actual listening
EXACTLY!!!
therefore a half decent driver only has to have a good power handeling, and decent cone excursion to reach high SPL.. 😛
kan3 said:
the same as that crappy half a metre one way, 0dB efficient paper weight with 100,000 watts... 😛
SkinnyBoy said:
not necessarily,because xmax is defined as=
The shorter of the Xmag and Xsus values, in each direction of cone travel.
Xmag = Excursion limit due to the magnetic limitations of the driver's motor. Xmag is defined as the displacement at which the BL product has fallen to 70% of its value at the cone's rest position.
Xsus = Excursion limit due to the driver's suspension. Xsus is defined as the point at which the compliance of the suspension has decreased to 25% of the value at the cone's rest position.
So you should expect that a woofer of high excursion still does have decent sound quality.....
flat/peaky BL curve....thats stuff i want to get into.
xbl2 is an interesting thing.
to go along with his statement, as the xmax of the driver increases so does BL compresion...at around 50% of the drivers xmax your at about 1-2db of compression....at full xmax or close to 70% of rest your around double that....and if you push the driver futher.... watchout =]
so by way of distortion alone a woofer with more x-max will have less driver induced distortion
then you got the much flatter BL curves of the xbl2 and dual gap that help even more =]
so by way of distortion alone a woofer with more x-max will have less driver induced distortion
then you got the much flatter BL curves of the xbl2 and dual gap that help even more =]
I would recommend taking a step back and looking at the big picture. If you want an "awesome" sub for youre HT applications, then the actual sub driver is only a fraction of the story. If you put youre 10" car sub in a small sealed box and use it for a HT sub, its going to produce bass far, far inferior to a really well designed sub using any number of quality 12" DIY sub drivers, there are great sub drivers out there from adire audio, stryke audio, apex jr. ect. A HT sub is comprized of cabnet, driver, and amp, and they are apart of a whole. A given sub with really impressive numbers might look attractive, but it really doesnt tell you much about how its going to perform in an HT situation. You need to plug all of its parameters in a box program and see.
kan3= got an email? this is interesting stuff- im toxicbass_1 of car audio forums..🙄 ,and want to further my knowledge with this magnetic circuits...
osmium_thumb@hotmail.com
Cheers😎
osmium_thumb@hotmail.com
Cheers😎
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