MSD Lamp

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I'm very interested in trying out a Phillips single ended 250Watt MSD bulb. They're bright enough, have a great color temp, a 5mm arc length (can you can point source) and are small enough to use with some great reflectors which will collect MUCH more of the light then I can with any homemade double ended HQI setup.

Granted they only last 2000 hours... but I can get them for 80 bucks... when they go for 120-180 a piece almost everywhere else. So for that price, it's worth it to try as it would be a MUCH better light source.

My problem is powering it. They are a professional stage light... so getting info at your local hardware store is out of the question.

It's a 90 volt bulb which means I'll need a 90volt transformer to fire it up. Anyone know where I can find them? Then theres the question about an ignitor? Yes, no? Do I need one?

Does anyone know what I need for this? I usually just call a friend of mine whos an electrican... but he's on vacation... and I need some answers.

Anyone?
 
Maybe you should call the company up and ask them how most people are powering them. If I was a lamp maker, and I wanted to sell my lamps, I would be sure to know where people could go to get fixtures and hardware so that my products could be used.

Its pretty hard to sell a bulb to someone who has no socket to plug it into.

Just a thought,

CB.
 
The CRI of that bulb is only 65! You'll never get good colors out of that.

If you want to try it then you could use a 250W MH ballast with ignitor; the MH runs at 93V, so maybe the MSD will only last for 1600hours or so but what the heck.
 
The CRI of bulbs has little to no effect on how the LCD looks. It's the Color Temp and Lumens that matter.

Look at the specs of commercial projector bulbs to compare.

And besides the CRI is not 65 it's 77 and if I wanted OSRAM's version of this bulb has an 85 CRI.

Plus... check the CRI of the bulbs Alan at DIY labs is selling... 🙂 I rest my case

I'm never going to get the proper results with cheap 10,000 hour plus bulbs. First off... they dont last 10,000 hours. After about 50% of their lifetime you might as well change them. Their still too big, even the 6" HQI bulbs... no one sells the correct reflectors...

I'm beginning to understand why commercial bulbs cost as much as they do. Which is why I'm looking into professional bulbs. At 2" or smaller, short arc, point source, single ended and pushing 20,000-40,000 lumens... their perfect! As long as you can find the bulbs for under a hundred bucks... it's a better solution.

A better solution then the MSD 250 would be OSRAM's HSD 250/60
 
There are 2 versions of this bulb, the 046677-29152-6 does have a CRI of 77, which still sux.
Just guessing but did you actually try a 77 cri bulb and compare it to a 90+ one?
I did and guess what I left in my OHP.

Did you look at the cdm/hci series from Philips/Osram? They are only available upto 150W but they are small and have the best cri you can get. (And they cost next to nothing if you are willing to buy them in Europe)
 
150w doesnt put out enough light. (Lumens)

And the Osram 250/60 has a CRI of 85. the 150w Phillips bulbs have ratings from 90-95. Not enough of a difference... no matter what you say.

Yes I did do side by side comparsions... and the CRI didnt have any REAL effect. Again... LUMENS and COLOR TEMP make the difference! NOT CRI. Check the bulbs you tested again and compare specs. I'm sure CRI wasnt the only difference!

Plus Phillips bulbs dont have good color temps AT ALL. 4200k is TOO LOW or too RED for projection. (At least for my taste) You need 5-6500k at least for a decent picture. (Same as commercial projector bulbs) Also if you look... commercial projector bulbs dont even mention their CRI ratings.
 
I am using a "philips CDM-T150W" in my projector and I must say that I think that bulb is perfect. Color temp of 4200k is giving an absolute white color. Other HM-bulbs looks green 7000k, if I compare. It´s very cheap and last 9000h. The light output is enough for a 120" picture (if you use it right). It´s small, so you can use 100 % of the light in a reflector design, and you don´t need any fans at all, so your projector can be completely quiet.
 
Pro Theatrical has some of the best prices on these bulbs I've seen. But if you look around you'll save a few bucks here and there... not much though.

I'm not looking to sell the bulbs. I'm just planning on selling build plans and some DIY items that are hard to find.

BTW... Pro Theatrical doesnt have many of the bulbs they carry listed. So email them if your looking for something that you dont see. Just dont expect them ask for any of the large MH bulbs. Stage, and pro lighting only.
 
jcbklyny

Ya no worries bud wasnt sure on the idea of getting a bulb and the suply mind u i havnt had the time of day though doing all of this condenser reseach n stuff, anyway good luck with your build plans i got some here that im selling that u probally heard about and another 3 designs on the way, your idea on selling a few hard to get items is up my alley also and im building complete light units that u just install as the whole unit (contains reflector and condenser bulb and ballst ) somthing to make it easy for people, all they will need is 4 screw holes, anyway interesting about the light u found and lets us know how u go with it, also if u want to get some good info on condensers and reflectors drop us an email somtime.

Trev
 
from the bulb or ballast it pulls that current? if its from the bulb thats the ballast prob but from the ballast wow thats alot of power to add on to your bill lol thats like 1000w of power if not more, well where i am anyway.

Trev
 
Mathias
Glad you like the bulb as much as I do. But be carefull with a fanless setup; I melted my fresnel with that 150W bulb. (Luckily the damage is outside the part that i use)

@Others
In a perfect world CRI wouldn't be important. The LCD would filter out the R/G/B component it needed from the bulb's perfect colorspectrum.
But lets assume the world is only partly perfect: the bulb has a color spectrum that is not flat but at least the R/G/B filters are perfect. Now any discoloration can be remedied with a simple adjustment of the color controls.
But when the world is far from perfect the bulb's spectrum isn't flat and the panel filters out color BANDS instead of a single color.
Now any discoloration will be impossible to correct.

Hmmm, I wonder in which world we live...

Anyway, my PJ is working great for 5 months now so I wont be here much. And that is a good thing, repeating the same old stuff is getting tedious and I am a little short tempered 🙂

Good luck all with your PJ's
 
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