hello Jose:
I would be inclined to mount them from below and put a rubber gasket/washer on each of the mounting screw. The gasket will allow a bit of flex, reduce tension on the ceramic and decouple the socket from the chassis. I would also "pre-stretch" the pin holes onto a tube before I tried to fit them once the sockets are mounted to the chassis to lower the risk of cracking the ceramic.
I hope this helps
I would be inclined to mount them from below and put a rubber gasket/washer on each of the mounting screw. The gasket will allow a bit of flex, reduce tension on the ceramic and decouple the socket from the chassis. I would also "pre-stretch" the pin holes onto a tube before I tried to fit them once the sockets are mounted to the chassis to lower the risk of cracking the ceramic.
I hope this helps
Just what we need - a bunch of precision machine shop work to make some stinking mounting holes.
Good suggestion, I'm planning to do that, also adding a rubber gasket as others recommended.
All you need is a drill and a small file, I've done elongated holes before. No need for precision tools.
Yes, it's the standardized Magnoval pin diameter, vs. 1 mm for Novar (and Compactron) pins.
Aren't these fibre washers? Anyway, I also think they're the best solution of all.
What about just drilling a hole of the raised areas' bigger diameter instead of elongated holes? Filing ceramics is a tedious job and requires diamond instead of steel files. A real PITA!
Best regards!
I just tried filing the protuberance in one side, worked pretty well with my cheap flat file 😉
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Probably. It is harder than aluminium or steel, but with a couple of minutes of effort it goes away.