He means that IGBTs have been tried on Class AB amps with no great success.
Don't ask me why cause I have no experience with IGBTs.
Don't ask me why cause I have no experience with IGBTs.
Oh, that's a quite complex amp for an amateur hobbyist to troubleshoot, maybe it is better to take it to a tech for repair.
Service manual can be found here: BEHRINGER INUKE NU6000DSP SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib
in case you want to give it a try but I wouldn't.
Service manual can be found here: BEHRINGER INUKE NU6000DSP SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib
in case you want to give it a try but I wouldn't.
Speaking from personal experience when working on a powered amp and by accident a component is shorted/blown it takes other components with it.
So even if you replace the blown part most probably amp won't function properly because something else has gone faulty too.
I've learned that the hard way.
So even if you replace the blown part most probably amp won't function properly because something else has gone faulty too.
I've learned that the hard way.
Holy hell, yes It does seem to exceed my capabilities by a exorbitantly large margin... My last attempt would be to unsolder the broken IGBT's and try the next ones which are currently shipping. The last time I turned it on, the LED's were red (red ring of death I suppose?) but the display was on and I could change every DSP setting with the buttons and the knob. The fan isn't running though!
Eying the board, I can't see any optical broken thing. Can components be broken without looking like it being broken?
How many other things got dragged into abyss? Did you manage to repair it or did you buy a completely new one?
Yes they can be faulty without looking like!!
I was prob testing with DMM my amp when I shorted a driver transistor which didn't burn itself but took out 3 output transistors with their resistors.
All driver stage transistors and 8 output BJTs had to be de soldered and tested in order to find out which were shorted.
I was prob testing with DMM my amp when I shorted a driver transistor which didn't burn itself but took out 3 output transistors with their resistors.
All driver stage transistors and 8 output BJTs had to be de soldered and tested in order to find out which were shorted.
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Get it to a tech, with a quick look I can see some blown smd components like R10,D5,T2,R21 and who knows what else.
This is not something for an amateur to repair.
This is not something for an amateur to repair.
What would be more expensive? A repair or a new one? (I paid 150€ for the amplifier)
If you want to give it a try you'll have to learn to work with smd components and get at least a soldering station (better if it has hot air too), a decent DMM and finally build a bulb tester.
Then you'll have to learn basics about schematic reading, component identification and testing.
Most of all with your no experience (no offence) you'll have to spend hours on this amp and it's schematic in order to repair it, if you think you found a nice hobby go on and give it a try, why not.
But for sure you'll need a new amp till you manage to repair this one.
Then you'll have to learn basics about schematic reading, component identification and testing.
Most of all with your no experience (no offence) you'll have to spend hours on this amp and it's schematic in order to repair it, if you think you found a nice hobby go on and give it a try, why not.
But for sure you'll need a new amp till you manage to repair this one.
If you decide to go on and repair it yourself I suggest you open a new thread like "Behringer INuke NU3000DSP repair", this way you might get help from members they have worked on this particular amp.
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