As cheap as
Spikes can be as cheap as 1/4" threaded rod sharpened on one end (on the floor) and into t-nuts on the bottom of the cabinet with lock nuts. 3 will be less fussy to set up. 4 will provide more support at each corner.
OR you could spend a significant part of a days wages buying them from somebody.
You have options.
Spikes can be as cheap as 1/4" threaded rod sharpened on one end (on the floor) and into t-nuts on the bottom of the cabinet with lock nuts. 3 will be less fussy to set up. 4 will provide more support at each corner.
OR you could spend a significant part of a days wages buying them from somebody.
You have options.
Dannyball said:
Have a look at these many posts for info:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/sear...d=728281&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending
planet10 said:
I agree with Dave here. You've got to try the alternatives to see what sounds best with your system.
I think that the reason that there are so many long and tense discussions is that people often want to impose their own solutions on others, even when the circumstances are different. When it comes to coupling or decoupling the speakers from the floor there is no single answer except "it depends".
It depends on the type of flooring, the size and weight of the speakers, their frequency range, their tendency to vibrate and how the rest of the equipment is supported - to mention just some of the relevant variables.
Spikes of course are efficient coupling devices, throughout the audio spectrum, they do not isolate. Not for nothing were 'spikes' used as needles in the old 78rpm gramophones - to couple the vibrations on the spinning disk to the mechanical horn.
moving_electron said:
In this situation, you've got a wooden floor.Dannyball said:
I would say that for maximum neighbour annoyance use spikes.
If you want to try something inexpensive that may sound great and keep the neighbours friendly, try the 'superball/doorstop combo' (originally developed for equipment supports by Mark Gdovin and modified by me for use with speakers).
You just bolt the doorstops into the spike threads. The subs will rock on the superball/doorstop combos if pushed but the frequency of the rocking is well below the audio spectrum so in practice they won't move.
I went a little bit different route when I built my MLTL. I incorporated a granite slab into desgin and used it as a base for the cabinet. I epoxy glued threaded inserts into the slab and can use either spikes or rounded cap legs. I agree whole heartedly with all that indicate the best way to eliminate the transfer of vibration is with density.
Good Luck
Good Luck
boucing subs
The biggest factor I could imagine in the installation of a sub woofer would be spreading the mass over a given area. By far and away the greatest cause of coloration I have been able to measure from a sub woofer is when the spikes are centralized on a given area of the floor. This is assuming of course a wooden floor (as concrete is a whole other ball game).
Inherently that section of the floor will not be fully coupled to the rest of the flooring and as such you will undoutbly get some nasty sound coming up to you, which is why your neighbors (above and below as the case may be) hate you so much. Their is no really easy solution to the problem besides having the engineer poor a woofer enclosure for you from the lower foundation up to your listening area. A guarenteed way to stop floor vibrations and solve coupling problems. (but then theres that nasty resonance problem in concrete)... hmm... back to the drawing board.
Mind you if you have a concrete floor, spiking it in three locations (NOT FOUR!!! heavens forbid trying to balance such a weighty beast on four points (chaos theory all over again)) inside a box of sand or lead shot is almost a sure fire way to stop nearly all fo the colourations.
Otherwise your sub might as well bashing up and down on the floor....
Cheers,
The biggest factor I could imagine in the installation of a sub woofer would be spreading the mass over a given area. By far and away the greatest cause of coloration I have been able to measure from a sub woofer is when the spikes are centralized on a given area of the floor. This is assuming of course a wooden floor (as concrete is a whole other ball game).
Inherently that section of the floor will not be fully coupled to the rest of the flooring and as such you will undoutbly get some nasty sound coming up to you, which is why your neighbors (above and below as the case may be) hate you so much. Their is no really easy solution to the problem besides having the engineer poor a woofer enclosure for you from the lower foundation up to your listening area. A guarenteed way to stop floor vibrations and solve coupling problems. (but then theres that nasty resonance problem in concrete)... hmm... back to the drawing board.
Mind you if you have a concrete floor, spiking it in three locations (NOT FOUR!!! heavens forbid trying to balance such a weighty beast on four points (chaos theory all over again)) inside a box of sand or lead shot is almost a sure fire way to stop nearly all fo the colourations.
Otherwise your sub might as well bashing up and down on the floor....
Cheers,
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