Some of you read my previous thread and graciously contributed, but I have a couple more questions.
I measured, made complex CAD drawings, rethought, re-engineered, and I just can't find a proper way to make enclosures (sealed or ported) without encroaching on cargo space. This van is my daily driver, my work truck, and our R.V. so (regardless of the fact that I have tons of space) there is nowhere to logically put boxes without some kind of compromise.
Then I got to thinking... Someone said that the actual shape of the enclosure isn't as important as its volume, but we were talking about traditional MDF boxes. What if I were to make all or part of the enclosure volume with PVC tubing? I could use the narrow spaces I have and create all the volume I want.
I was thinking of some shallow, small volume boxes against the side walls of the van with 4" PVC to make up the additional required volume.
The PVC could be sealed at the end, or ported by leaving it open/reduced.
I measured, made complex CAD drawings, rethought, re-engineered, and I just can't find a proper way to make enclosures (sealed or ported) without encroaching on cargo space. This van is my daily driver, my work truck, and our R.V. so (regardless of the fact that I have tons of space) there is nowhere to logically put boxes without some kind of compromise.
Then I got to thinking... Someone said that the actual shape of the enclosure isn't as important as its volume, but we were talking about traditional MDF boxes. What if I were to make all or part of the enclosure volume with PVC tubing? I could use the narrow spaces I have and create all the volume I want.
I was thinking of some shallow, small volume boxes against the side walls of the van with 4" PVC to make up the additional required volume.
The PVC could be sealed at the end, or ported by leaving it open/reduced.
Hi , I haven't read the other thread 😱
and Pvc is good or ..at least , cylindrical or better ,half -cylindrical .
WHo said that shape is not important ? Well , really it isn't , but
as long as you can create a pattern that kills the waves , like a spire 😕
If you cut a cylinder on vertical axis , you'll get 2 semi -cyl. and side by side
with a 'structural jointing' and using internal carpeting and bitumen /dynamat ( very costly ) , you can get a very diffractional wall . Pvc or vinyl sheets may be used for finishing . The speaker would then use a singular baffle , very
thick, protruding out the cut between the cylinders .
and Pvc is good or ..at least , cylindrical or better ,half -cylindrical .
WHo said that shape is not important ? Well , really it isn't , but
as long as you can create a pattern that kills the waves , like a spire 😕
If you cut a cylinder on vertical axis , you'll get 2 semi -cyl. and side by side
with a 'structural jointing' and using internal carpeting and bitumen /dynamat ( very costly ) , you can get a very diffractional wall . Pvc or vinyl sheets may be used for finishing . The speaker would then use a singular baffle , very
thick, protruding out the cut between the cylinders .
If you are handy, sounds like you are, get some grillcloth from a car audio shop and some fibreglass resin, a ring of mdf the size to mount the sub and glass up an enclosure that will sit where ever there is room.
If you want it removable after your done with the van line the area behind the enclosure with duct tape, the fibreglass wont stick to it.
this enclosure type maximizes the volume with minimal intrusion into the space. A little sanding between layers and some bondo and you've go a kickbass enclosure.
search fiberglass sub box on youtube to see how its done.
If you want it removable after your done with the van line the area behind the enclosure with duct tape, the fibreglass wont stick to it.
this enclosure type maximizes the volume with minimal intrusion into the space. A little sanding between layers and some bondo and you've go a kickbass enclosure.
search fiberglass sub box on youtube to see how its done.
Excellent suggestions. If the shape doesn't really matter, is there really a difference between making the volume from a shallow fabricated fiberglass box vs. making it with 10' of 4" PVC? I'm just thinking that PVC is not only super quick to fab, but the fact that it is cylindrical means its naturally a bit stronger compared to laying up multiple layers of fiberglass in a flat plane.
I am pretty handy, and I have worked extensively with 'glass in marine fabrication, but I wouldn't say I'm "good" at it. Assembling PVC is so easy that my kid could do it.... and I don't even have any kids.
I am pretty handy, and I have worked extensively with 'glass in marine fabrication, but I wouldn't say I'm "good" at it. Assembling PVC is so easy that my kid could do it.... and I don't even have any kids.
Long cylindrical enclosures introduce pipe resonances that can interact poorly with the driver.
if the glass method isnt too adventurous id opt for that over the 4" pipe, and im handy!
if the glass method isnt too adventurous id opt for that over the 4" pipe, and im handy!
'nuff said. I'll 'glass it 🙂
Am I correct in assuming that the port volume (in a traditional enclosure) is subtracted from the enclosure volume? If that's the case I could slightly reduce the volume of the enclosure by making the port external, right?
Am I correct in assuming that the port volume (in a traditional enclosure) is subtracted from the enclosure volume? If that's the case I could slightly reduce the volume of the enclosure by making the port external, right?
Just make sure that if you do use fiberglass to build part or all of the enclosure, you brace it properly so it doesn't vibrate like a drum 🙂.
Yes.
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