These bookshelf speakers have been gathering dust for many years due to one of the original gold anodised tweeters being blown.
I replaced both tweeters with the little Dayton 5/8" dome, made new mounting plates, removed the crossovers and lined the cabinets with 1/2" cement board.
Using my minidsp, played around with various setting and finally wound up with a crossover point of 4000Hz, LR4 on the tweeter and LR2 on the woofer.
Quite a step up from what I remember the originals sounded like.
The 7" woofer has a very extended top end.
Has anyone experience of using this woofer in a larger floor standing enclosure?
Say a MLTL?
Peter
I replaced both tweeters with the little Dayton 5/8" dome, made new mounting plates, removed the crossovers and lined the cabinets with 1/2" cement board.
Using my minidsp, played around with various setting and finally wound up with a crossover point of 4000Hz, LR4 on the tweeter and LR2 on the woofer.
Quite a step up from what I remember the originals sounded like.
The 7" woofer has a very extended top end.
Has anyone experience of using this woofer in a larger floor standing enclosure?
Say a MLTL?
Peter
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Congratualtions on making a better speaker.
No experince my self of Mordaunt Short speakers let alone the MS20i. I peronsally think you should quit while your ahead as the boxes are probably a good size for the woofers.
If you are thinking of a larger floor standing enclosure,for more bass slam, why not go wild and buy some bass speakers and build a subwoofer stand. I have had good success with the Peerless 830668 10" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer in sealed box. Its a little too large, but the bass is impresive, Im sure with a lower Qts driver you could get the boxes to a size that fits your need for a stand.
No experince my self of Mordaunt Short speakers let alone the MS20i. I peronsally think you should quit while your ahead as the boxes are probably a good size for the woofers.
If you are thinking of a larger floor standing enclosure,for more bass slam, why not go wild and buy some bass speakers and build a subwoofer stand. I have had good success with the Peerless 830668 10" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer in sealed box. Its a little too large, but the bass is impresive, Im sure with a lower Qts driver you could get the boxes to a size that fits your need for a stand.
Thanks for the reply. I already have various DIY speakers including a pair of raw Dayton 10"
Subwoofer drivers, but I never could find a satisfactory balance in my medium size room.
The most satisfying bass in this room has been, surpringly with a pair of Infinity Kappa 8, but equalized to overcome the room standing waves-severe dip and peak.
You are probably right in suggesting I quit on these Mordaunt Shorts.
Peter
Subwoofer drivers, but I never could find a satisfactory balance in my medium size room.
The most satisfying bass in this room has been, surpringly with a pair of Infinity Kappa 8, but equalized to overcome the room standing waves-severe dip and peak.
You are probably right in suggesting I quit on these Mordaunt Shorts.
Peter
The MS20i was a very simplistic bass coil and tweeter cap filter IIRC. Bass moulded into the plastic baffle too, isn't it?
I'd suspect you might improve the bass on a conventional crossover with a bigger bafflestep coil. The ear is quite sensitive to bass balance. But we are talking a PROPER crossover here. Second order bass, third or fourth order tweeter. 😀
I picked up this MS821C centre speaker cheaply. I wanted the 5" polycone bass units, which are a bit of a classic IMO, for another project.
I'd suspect you might improve the bass on a conventional crossover with a bigger bafflestep coil. The ear is quite sensitive to bass balance. But we are talking a PROPER crossover here. Second order bass, third or fourth order tweeter. 😀
I picked up this MS821C centre speaker cheaply. I wanted the 5" polycone bass units, which are a bit of a classic IMO, for another project.
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You remember correctly, a 3.3uf poly cap and a small coil. I assume crossover around 3500Hz. The woofer alone sounds very well as high as 6.3k. I am running 2nd order on the woofer and 4th order tweeter. I think I paid about 20 pounds for these around 2003. They are the British built version.
Yes, the woofer chassis is moulded into the baffle.
Yes, the woofer chassis is moulded into the baffle.
I had the MS10i back in the day. Good detail but a bit harsh or overly lively IMO. I think a Zobel is essential with metal domes. Say 7.5R and 0.68uF across the tweeter.
These days I would look to a filter a bit like the SEAS IDUNN:
IDUNN
Possibly 2.5mH and 5.6uF bass for around 3kHz crossover. Tweeter might be 6.8 ohms resistance (adjustable) followed by 4.7uF/0.2mH/4.7uF based on 89dB sensitivity. The SEAS uses an unusual tweeter so we need to do something different with yours.
These days I would look to a filter a bit like the SEAS IDUNN:
IDUNN
Possibly 2.5mH and 5.6uF bass for around 3kHz crossover. Tweeter might be 6.8 ohms resistance (adjustable) followed by 4.7uF/0.2mH/4.7uF based on 89dB sensitivity. The SEAS uses an unusual tweeter so we need to do something different with yours.
Infinity Kappa 8 looks liek a lot more high end than the Mordaunt Short MS20i even though you have probably significantly "improved" it.
I would make a simple passive cross over and use the miniDSP for more exciting speakers 🙂
Since you have decided on a crossover point with the MiniDSP it would be easy to make a cheap cross over and move on to the next project. The little I knwo abotu the Mordaunt Short MS20i is it was never a high end speaker. £89.70 per pair in 1982 according to gramophone.co.uk.
Best of luck what ever you decide to do.
I picked up the Kappa 8s in a local mountain thrift shop- $50. Had to install proper woofers and replace the polydomes. They are one of my reference speakers. The others are Apogee Centaurs - the last pair that I bought new.
If I could conjure up a speaker that has the best qualities of these two, then I may not build another! Well, not too many more.
The MS20i mods are not an attempt to achieve greatness from these little boxes. Just trying to fix a damaged speaker.
If I could conjure up a speaker that has the best qualities of these two, then I may not build another! Well, not too many more.
The MS20i mods are not an attempt to achieve greatness from these little boxes. Just trying to fix a damaged speaker.
Yes, I was pleasantly surprised. On top of a decent midrange it does a creditable job.
One of my projects is to put together a 3-way. Vifa P21, dayton 2" dome and the ND16.
I already have 65 litre ported cabinets with removable baffles. Should have the baffles cut next week.
One of my projects is to put together a 3-way. Vifa P21, dayton 2" dome and the ND16.
I already have 65 litre ported cabinets with removable baffles. Should have the baffles cut next week.
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