ModuShop 4U Deluxe Build Guide - roboDNA

Nice work!!!

I build in a slightly different order:
  • all front panel work is done before installation. I drill holes for handles and LED. My LED strategy is to drill a hole from the back that the LED will go into (5MM), but not all the way through the faceplate. Then I use the smallest bit I have for the final push through the panel. This allows for a small indicator light. Personal preference.
  • I like to put all the back plate components on before fitting it to the amp. It's just easier ergonomically to me. Again, personal preference.
  • Before attaching the bottom plate I add the internal bottom plate with 10x10mm grid.
  • I test fit the bottom and top plates before tightening all the heatsink rails and front/back plates. This is to make sure the screw holes all line up correctly. I've learned this lesson the hard way more than once.
  • Bottom plate and top plate go on after the amp is built and tested.
 
Great, thanks for the feedback on how you accomplished your build. I'll see about tweaking my steps on my second build as taking pictures while progressing seems to be the only reliable way to lock in steps. My main goal was to build the whole case nice and square so all the holes line up perfectly. Then, it's easy to remove the bottom plate and re-install it without the case becoming misaligned. Same goes for the front panel.

Once I receive my handles, I'll be adding some steps for drilling. ( I'll add a note to skip to 'drilling front panel' step and then come back to 'mounting front panel' step so the builder can drill whatever holes, independent of my guide )

The bottom plate step will be added once I'm mounting parts into the case since this is my first build and do not know what to include in the guide at this point. I'll take pictures.
 
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Nice work!!!

I build in a slightly different order:
  • all front panel work is done before installation. I drill holes for handles and LED. My LED strategy is to drill a hole from the back that the LED will go into (5MM), but not all the way through the faceplate. Then I use the smallest bit I have for the final push through the panel. This allows for a small indicator light. Personal preference.
  • I like to put all the back plate components on before fitting it to the amp. It's just easier ergonomically to me. Again, personal preference.
  • Before attaching the bottom plate I add the internal bottom plate with 10x10mm grid.
  • I test fit the bottom and top plates before tightening all the heatsink rails and front/back plates. This is to make sure the screw holes all line up correctly. I've learned this lesson the hard way more than once.
  • Bottom plate and top plate go on after the amp is built and tested.
I think this may confuse anyone reading my guide... I do appreciate the feedback though, but for reference, I don't think these steps are in line with my end-goal. Please follow the steps in the guide to duplicate what I have done on my end. YMMV.
 
Use a soft cloth between the face plate and the workbench. Same for the heat sinks and top cover.
I like to mask off the entire panel in masking tape. Makes it easy to mark off locations and prevents drilling curly cues from marking up the face. A ceremonial peel is performed when all work is complete.

Nice work!!!

I build in a slightly different order:
  • all front panel work is done before installation. I drill holes for handles and LED. My LED strategy is to drill a hole from the back that the LED will go into (5MM), but not all the way through the faceplate. Then I use the smallest bit I have for the final push through the panel. This allows for a small indicator light. Personal preference.
  • I like to put all the back plate components on before fitting it to the amp. It's just easier ergonomically to me. Again, personal preference.
  • Before attaching the bottom plate I add the internal bottom plate with 10x10mm grid.
  • I test fit the bottom and top plates before tightening all the heatsink rails and front/back plates. This is to make sure the screw holes all line up correctly. I've learned this lesson the hard way more than once.
  • Bottom plate and top plate go on after the amp is built and tested.
All good advice....
 
  • assemble heatsinks with frames,
  • mount all parts and pcbs on heatsinks,
  • mount all parts (and pcbs, if any) on back plate; wire up mains thingies on it and solder speaker wires to posts
  • mount all parts and pcbs on base plate, wire up all things on it, including wires from PSU to channel pcbs
  • bolt heatsinks with base plate; my recipe lip up, 7-10mm risers in between base plate and frame - more clearance for mains wires going underneath,
  • bolt back plate to heatsinks; now you have construction sturdy enough, so you can place case on side ( first then second) to
  • solder all power wires to channel pcbs,
  • solder all output and input wires,
  • front plate - install studs in place of bolts, mount FP to rest of case using washers and nuts (on studs) - easier that way using small wrench instead of wrestling with screwdriver on screws,
  • power up and setting procedure ................................
 
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front plate - install studs in place of bolts, mount FP to rest of case using washers and nuts (on studs) - easier that way using small wrench instead of wrestling with screwdriver on screws,
Another good tip. I discovered the difficulty of torquing screws on the ACA. Fortunately, I had a screwdriver with a swiveling tip, allowing the handle to angle away from the tip whilst applying torque.

https://img.drz.lazcdn.com/static/pk/p/e6ab360cfb669b3b5b5ba8e0e38317ce.jpg_720x720q80.jpg

For that matter, hex socket cap screws with a speed ball tipped allen key wouldve been an improvement over the supplied philips screws...
 
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I received the milled handles yesterday. They are very nice and were worth the extra cost. I'll update my guide with pictures but it may be delayed due to time constraints and timing of build steps. For example, I plan on using LED light tubes ( maybe more than 1 ) so drilling the front panel's holes ( other than the milled handles ) will be the last steps of phase 1 of my amp build. ( phase 2 will be add-ons and upgrades if time allows )

Also, I plan on using connectors/screw headers instead of direct wire->board solder so that may affect my build steps. It's my first build and I still have not laid out the parts on my work bench to fully understand what constraints are involved. ( still waiting on parts )

My case will never become out of alignment if no more than 2 out of the 6 sides are removed, and perhaps by using connectors, I'll be able to attach all the components successfully while keeping things as simple as possible. I expect to get snookered considering the varying build methods attempted and suggested. Maybe I'll pull-off a Forest Gump and make it through the whole build without a hitch.
 
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