FINALLY!!! I succeded in tricking the projectors electronics into believing that there is a new lamp connected!
It proved to be really easy.
I disassembled and studied the electronics in a OSRAM PSU from a scrapped DAVIS DLP-projector and found that the 8-pin connector to the motherboard is NOT a power supply (as i first thought) but a simple remote control of the PSU and projectors motherboard.
Counted from the top of the 8-pin connector on the OSRAM PSU, pin 1,2,3 and 4 are connected to emitter and collector, resp. on 2 optocouplers. Pin 5,6,7 and 8 are connected to anode and cathode, resp. on two other optocouplers. I´m not sure what pin 5,6,7 and 8 does but suspect it is simply a remote on/off-switch for the projector-lamp when using the standby-mode!
Pin 1 and 2 i think are used for the temperature-protection!
To bypass the ballast-detection in the projector - remove the 8-pin connector (ON THE PSU SIDE! ) and put a short or resistor between pin 3 and 4 ON THE CABLE, and thats it! You can now remove the OSRAM PT-VIP 270/120/230 PSU since it is no longer needed! Then visit your local electronics dealer and buy, for example a high intensity LED-lamp, Xenon halogen lamp or any other cheap lightsource you can find that runs on 5-12 volt DC. I got a (faint) picture from the projector just by shining a SPOTLIGHT into the lamp-bay! 🙂
You can even get rid of the other PSU and connect the red and black wires to a 12-voltage powersupply, if you like to bring the projector with you on the camping-trip! 🙂 It worked fine with my 12V/5A switched PSU from MASCOT!
Finally! BE CAREFUL WHEN WORKING INSIDE THE PROJECTOR!! HIGH VOLTAGES EXIST IN MANY PLACES!!
It proved to be really easy.
I disassembled and studied the electronics in a OSRAM PSU from a scrapped DAVIS DLP-projector and found that the 8-pin connector to the motherboard is NOT a power supply (as i first thought) but a simple remote control of the PSU and projectors motherboard.
Counted from the top of the 8-pin connector on the OSRAM PSU, pin 1,2,3 and 4 are connected to emitter and collector, resp. on 2 optocouplers. Pin 5,6,7 and 8 are connected to anode and cathode, resp. on two other optocouplers. I´m not sure what pin 5,6,7 and 8 does but suspect it is simply a remote on/off-switch for the projector-lamp when using the standby-mode!
Pin 1 and 2 i think are used for the temperature-protection!
To bypass the ballast-detection in the projector - remove the 8-pin connector (ON THE PSU SIDE! ) and put a short or resistor between pin 3 and 4 ON THE CABLE, and thats it! You can now remove the OSRAM PT-VIP 270/120/230 PSU since it is no longer needed! Then visit your local electronics dealer and buy, for example a high intensity LED-lamp, Xenon halogen lamp or any other cheap lightsource you can find that runs on 5-12 volt DC. I got a (faint) picture from the projector just by shining a SPOTLIGHT into the lamp-bay! 🙂
You can even get rid of the other PSU and connect the red and black wires to a 12-voltage powersupply, if you like to bring the projector with you on the camping-trip! 🙂 It worked fine with my 12V/5A switched PSU from MASCOT!
Finally! BE CAREFUL WHEN WORKING INSIDE THE PROJECTOR!! HIGH VOLTAGES EXIST IN MANY PLACES!!
This topic was incredibly handy. I bought a davis Powerbeam V at a comp show a few years ago. When powered up it would comeon for about 10 seconds and then the light would go out.
I did a ton of research trying to figure out how to fix the ballast because the bulb was obviously good. After coming up short in my research on specs etc I just put it on the shelf for a bit and kinda forgot about it.
Well last week I rediscovered this projector on my shelf and decided to start the project again. Started doing searches again and finally came here and found this thread.
Good job Peters1974.
Well, Saturday night I tore down the PJ and scrutinized it all quite a bit. Laid out a plan of attack then started to work.
Basically I used Peters trick to fool the pj into thinkning the ballast was still there.
Then I took the existing bulb sled and removed the bulb and mounted the Light setup from my stillborn PSOne PJ onto the sled. I then wired the light engine to the existing bulb connector.
Then after removing the ballast, I disconnected the power from the switch/power inlet and put in a new wire that spliced new power leads in, and then ran new cable through the factory grommets and into the hole that power to the ballast went through. With the ballast removed I then connected the new power to the existing pj lamp connector.
This way when the bulb goes, I can just remove the sled like normal, replace the bulb and slide it back in and be good to go.
Well, after doing all this, I crossed my fingers, plugged it in, and turned on the power.....
It worked beautifully and threw a nice bright image.
Now I have a DLP projector that uses a 5 dollar bulb instead of a 300 dollar one.
Light replaced - 170Watt MH
Replaced with - 410Watt Halogen FXL-5 long life.
Total cost for this project for the weekend,
PJ - 60 at a show 2 years ago so free.
Light setup for a project from a year ago or so - free
"Refreshments" while working - $6.00 for a six pack.
I love the DIY community.
I did a ton of research trying to figure out how to fix the ballast because the bulb was obviously good. After coming up short in my research on specs etc I just put it on the shelf for a bit and kinda forgot about it.
Well last week I rediscovered this projector on my shelf and decided to start the project again. Started doing searches again and finally came here and found this thread.
Good job Peters1974.
Well, Saturday night I tore down the PJ and scrutinized it all quite a bit. Laid out a plan of attack then started to work.
Basically I used Peters trick to fool the pj into thinkning the ballast was still there.
Then I took the existing bulb sled and removed the bulb and mounted the Light setup from my stillborn PSOne PJ onto the sled. I then wired the light engine to the existing bulb connector.
Then after removing the ballast, I disconnected the power from the switch/power inlet and put in a new wire that spliced new power leads in, and then ran new cable through the factory grommets and into the hole that power to the ballast went through. With the ballast removed I then connected the new power to the existing pj lamp connector.
This way when the bulb goes, I can just remove the sled like normal, replace the bulb and slide it back in and be good to go.
Well, after doing all this, I crossed my fingers, plugged it in, and turned on the power.....
It worked beautifully and threw a nice bright image.
Now I have a DLP projector that uses a 5 dollar bulb instead of a 300 dollar one.
Light replaced - 170Watt MH
Replaced with - 410Watt Halogen FXL-5 long life.
Total cost for this project for the weekend,
PJ - 60 at a show 2 years ago so free.
Light setup for a project from a year ago or so - free
"Refreshments" while working - $6.00 for a six pack.
I love the DIY community.
HELLO . I got so excited when i read your thread i just had to try it. . I used a flashlight bulb just to see if it would work and it did!! i saw about 2 seconds of light , but my little bulb blew to bits. So now that i know it works may i ask a question ? first i have a sharp dt 100. it requires a an-100LP bulb . thats a 275 watts shp. bulb . what kind of bulb do you suggest i use ? im a complete rookie as you can tell my my test, should i use a 275 bulb or higher and any ideas on brands and types. by the way how does the picture look? thanks for any help and the great idea.🙂
sonicdrink said:
Hi!
It should be possible, providing the projector is using the same PSU - OSRAM PT-VIP 270/120/230.
Then you just need to connect a resistor between the pins mentioned earlier and install any lightsource of your choice! 🙂
Recently i bought a new digital DLP-projector from LG on Tradera, however i have´nt yet decided if i will go on and modify it when the lamp burns out or spend about $400 on a lamp replacement. Currently the lamp has only been used up about 600 of the total 2000-3000 hours.
Merry Christmas and good luck with the modification!
Best regards
Peter
Re: Pictures of the modification
I dont understand wich cabel that is :S IS it connected to the power supply ?
peters1974 said:
I dont understand wich cabel that is :S IS it connected to the power supply ?
Hi All,
I know this is an old post. But I would like to ask if anyone could help me on HP XB31. I was trying to use an OSRAM 50w 12V and 50w 240v to replace VIP R 150/16.
The result I got is:
50w 12V would show the projection but then off approx after 10sec.
50w 240V would try to ignite but then never project anything.
Would appreciate if anyone could give me some idea.
Thanks in advance
I know this is an old post. But I would like to ask if anyone could help me on HP XB31. I was trying to use an OSRAM 50w 12V and 50w 240v to replace VIP R 150/16.
The result I got is:
50w 12V would show the projection but then off approx after 10sec.
50w 240V would try to ignite but then never project anything.
Would appreciate if anyone could give me some idea.
Thanks in advance
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