So I have a pair of active BlueSky SAT6.5 with one of the woofers blown, so i decided to make it a nice little DIY project for sealed nearfield.
Amp on each is 2x100W, crossover at 1500Hz.
The is pretty small, but has an internal panel to separate amp from drivers. I'm thinking of removing it to increase the volume at least 2 liters.
I've narrowed it to three woofers:
Dayton RS180 (4ohm, aluminium)
Dayton Audio RS180 - 7" Woofer
Dayton ES180TiA (8ohm, aluminium)
Dayton Audio ES180TiA-8 - 7" Woofer
SEAS H1224
SEAS H1224-08 L18RNX/P - 8" Woofer
RS180: cheap, low FS, low EBP. However, low power and needs 12 as much volume as i have for spec'd F3, and a bit low-powered for the amp.
ES180TiA: high power, F3 @71Hz at merely 5.3L which is about as much as i can get from these boxes.
SEAS h1224: i like how they sound in amphions. but those are ported, and drivers have high EBP and high Fs. also madisound says "sealed not recommended"
not yet decided on the tweeters but eye-ing
Peerless DA25BG08-08
Peerless by Tymphany DA25BG08 - 1" Tweeter
Also Dayton ES
Buying a Dayton Audio ES25Nd-4 tweeter? - SoundImports
what i'm vary of is i didn't like the existing peerless ring-radiator - so i might just not like ring radiator tweeter conceptually?
I don't think i want to build a larger box or buy new amps because this is supposed to be "take some trash and make something cool with it" project, so i'd rather retrofit existing boxes and reuse existing amps.
Also my main monitors are ported 3-way, beryllium tweeter (xover 280 and 2400) - so this is really meant to be exact opposite of it in character - sealed, alu (or silk dome) tweeter, 2-way with different crossover point, so everything fits the bill i just need to find decent drivers.
Side note, I also blew one of the amplifiers when measuring voltage output. at 35V the fuse blew, and when i swapped it it blew again. it's already in service tho.
Does anyone have any tips on how not to blow up amps when measuring voltage output?
Amp on each is 2x100W, crossover at 1500Hz.
The is pretty small, but has an internal panel to separate amp from drivers. I'm thinking of removing it to increase the volume at least 2 liters.
I've narrowed it to three woofers:
Dayton RS180 (4ohm, aluminium)
Dayton Audio RS180 - 7" Woofer
Dayton ES180TiA (8ohm, aluminium)
Dayton Audio ES180TiA-8 - 7" Woofer
SEAS H1224
SEAS H1224-08 L18RNX/P - 8" Woofer
RS180: cheap, low FS, low EBP. However, low power and needs 12 as much volume as i have for spec'd F3, and a bit low-powered for the amp.
ES180TiA: high power, F3 @71Hz at merely 5.3L which is about as much as i can get from these boxes.
SEAS h1224: i like how they sound in amphions. but those are ported, and drivers have high EBP and high Fs. also madisound says "sealed not recommended"
not yet decided on the tweeters but eye-ing
Peerless DA25BG08-08
Peerless by Tymphany DA25BG08 - 1" Tweeter
Also Dayton ES
Buying a Dayton Audio ES25Nd-4 tweeter? - SoundImports
what i'm vary of is i didn't like the existing peerless ring-radiator - so i might just not like ring radiator tweeter conceptually?
I don't think i want to build a larger box or buy new amps because this is supposed to be "take some trash and make something cool with it" project, so i'd rather retrofit existing boxes and reuse existing amps.
Also my main monitors are ported 3-way, beryllium tweeter (xover 280 and 2400) - so this is really meant to be exact opposite of it in character - sealed, alu (or silk dome) tweeter, 2-way with different crossover point, so everything fits the bill i just need to find decent drivers.
Side note, I also blew one of the amplifiers when measuring voltage output. at 35V the fuse blew, and when i swapped it it blew again. it's already in service tho.
Does anyone have any tips on how not to blow up amps when measuring voltage output?
well the service guy said i most likely blew the FETs (i think they were FETs, they looked like FETs)
i fed the amp -2 dBU (so around 1.7V p2p) 50Hz sine, and measured the voltage on the amp output terminals (which was around 35V when it blew up?)
i fed the amp -2 dBU (so around 1.7V p2p) 50Hz sine, and measured the voltage on the amp output terminals (which was around 35V when it blew up?)
oyy
he fixed it for 70€.
he said that there was a lot of cold solder joints. known problem with these. reflowed them all.
now i have two perfectly working 2x100W plates with crossover at 1500Hz 🙂
he fixed it for 70€.
he said that there was a lot of cold solder joints. known problem with these. reflowed them all.
now i have two perfectly working 2x100W plates with crossover at 1500Hz 🙂
The aluminum cone drivers from SBAcoustics are modest cost with good measurements. You can get silver or black aluminum cones. If your amps can drive 4-ohm speakers they typically are more dynamic than the 8-ohm.
6.5" midbass SB17NAC35-4
1" dome tweeter SB26ADC-C000-4
thanks for replying!
I actually had a similar tweeter in mind, but ceramic.
Yeah - both original drivers are 4Ohm, so the amps can definitely handle 4ohm drivers.
The woofer actually has a very similar response in the simulator vs the Dayton ES180 is power-handling. What concerns me is that i measured the amp outputting around 35V at -6dB FS input, and if i apply a little low-shelving DSP pre-input i might push it too hard.
Closed Box Simulator