I decided to share and discuss the modification of my Aune S16.
I changed all tantalum and electrolytic capacitors. I changed and opamps with Burson V5.
I replace IEC connector with Furutech FI-06 and RCA connectors with WBT.
Result is very good.
I changed all tantalum and electrolytic capacitors. I changed and opamps with Burson V5.
I replace IEC connector with Furutech FI-06 and RCA connectors with WBT.
Result is very good.
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Sound is great 🙂
The original power receptacle was of very poor quality. Changing with Furutetsh sound became very clear and lot of details. But too thin, without "meat". This required changing the other capacitors.
Before stabs are Mundorf AG 2x10000uF and 1pc. 4700uF. I used mostly Panasonits SEP and SEPC for digital circuits (view photos). For clocks NOS Sanyo Oscon SG.
For analog filtration i use combination from Nichicon Fine Gold and Rubycon ZLH.
I want to try some different caps for DVDD. For example Oscon SG or Nichicon FP-R7.
I wonder to change ceramic capacitors in the output analog circuit with Silver Mica or Styroflex.
Now the sound is thick, rugged, low bass, dense mids and nice high. The sound is natural, calm. The voices are pleasing and lifelike.
I ordered Burson from Australia. Without them, the sound would not be as good.
The original power receptacle was of very poor quality. Changing with Furutetsh sound became very clear and lot of details. But too thin, without "meat". This required changing the other capacitors.
Before stabs are Mundorf AG 2x10000uF and 1pc. 4700uF. I used mostly Panasonits SEP and SEPC for digital circuits (view photos). For clocks NOS Sanyo Oscon SG.
For analog filtration i use combination from Nichicon Fine Gold and Rubycon ZLH.
I want to try some different caps for DVDD. For example Oscon SG or Nichicon FP-R7.
I wonder to change ceramic capacitors in the output analog circuit with Silver Mica or Styroflex.
Now the sound is thick, rugged, low bass, dense mids and nice high. The sound is natural, calm. The voices are pleasing and lifelike.
I ordered Burson from Australia. Without them, the sound would not be as good.
Thank you so much!
I've been listening to the S16, I really like the sound!
your work is admirable !!!!
will be on your photos, too, do the modification!
I've been listening to the S16, I really like the sound!
your work is admirable !!!!
will be on your photos, too, do the modification!
When You change capacitors now or before the time?
I dont like Cerafine and Wima 🙁
But everyone has their own preferences for sound.
What function have white Mundorf caps?
You can replace tantalum caps on bottom side of plate, they are important too. And another 4. This picture is old, i replace all tant caps.
I dont like Cerafine and Wima 🙁
But everyone has their own preferences for sound.
What function have white Mundorf caps?
You can replace tantalum caps on bottom side of plate, they are important too. And another 4. This picture is old, i replace all tant caps.
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I noticed some extra components on your Aune S16 board.
2 brown caps near the DAC chip, right side.
Which Rev is your unit, Rev 3.2?
Revision is 4.1
This braun caps are Elna Silmic II - decoupled caps for signal to headphone amp.
This braun caps are Elna Silmic II - decoupled caps for signal to headphone amp.
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Nice work, I'll bet it sounds good.
You might want to remove the smd ceramic from the dvdd if using a solid Oscon on the same rail, I noticed a decent improvement after doing that. The super low esr tends to oscillate with the ceramic caps.
Have you tried any soft recovery diodes for the rectifier portion of the power supply?
After I do that, I place a snubber circuit on each bridge, on the a/c side. A .01uf film/foil stacked, paralleled with a .1uf + 18 ohm in series works well for me.
That will really help to get the most out of the burson op amps.
I don't like the cerafine caps either, maybe there is a useful place somewhere for them, but I haven't found it.
You might want to remove the smd ceramic from the dvdd if using a solid Oscon on the same rail, I noticed a decent improvement after doing that. The super low esr tends to oscillate with the ceramic caps.
Have you tried any soft recovery diodes for the rectifier portion of the power supply?
After I do that, I place a snubber circuit on each bridge, on the a/c side. A .01uf film/foil stacked, paralleled with a .1uf + 18 ohm in series works well for me.
That will really help to get the most out of the burson op amps.
I don't like the cerafine caps either, maybe there is a useful place somewhere for them, but I haven't found it.
Checking the signal on a scope and making sure the correct termination is present is a better option.
Also removing the samall ceramic capacitors nest to digital ICs power pins is the last thing you want to do when playing with the power delivery system...
Also removing the samall ceramic capacitors nest to digital ICs power pins is the last thing you want to do when playing with the power delivery system...
Anyone know what are these diodes?
phase, thanks for advice.
What soft recovery diodes do You used?
Actualy I found this. If it's true, I think this shottcy diodes MBRA340T3 are good enough.
phase, thanks for advice.
What soft recovery diodes do You used?
Actualy I found this. If it's true, I think this shottcy diodes MBRA340T3 are good enough.
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Well my stuff is through hole, so that's not going to work there!
It would be nice to know what was in there to begin with, but likely the shotkey ones will be an improvement...
It would be nice to know what was in there to begin with, but likely the shotkey ones will be an improvement...
I removed the smd ceramic from the dvdd. Sound became more smooth and relaxed. After this i replaced SEP cap for dvdd with Oscon SG. I noticed a decent improvement after doing that - better, live sound.
Those Schottky diodes (not shotkey or shottcy) are just fine and better than what is normally used.
Removing SMD ceramic caps used for decoupling is recipe for disaster especially when your ears are the instruments of use. What your ears think is better might be more distortion or jitter you are hearing. Without measuring and no oscilloscope you are making things not better. You don't really know what you are doing as you are driving without lights in the dark. Tuning by ear has had some following in analog circles but it does not work like that in digital electronics. The fact that Burson discrete opamps are used speaks for itself. These measure worse than most modern opamps....
BTW on the picture I see some NOS ROE electrolytic caps that are well known for failure. Very old stuff too.
Removing SMD ceramic caps used for decoupling is recipe for disaster especially when your ears are the instruments of use. What your ears think is better might be more distortion or jitter you are hearing. Without measuring and no oscilloscope you are making things not better. You don't really know what you are doing as you are driving without lights in the dark. Tuning by ear has had some following in analog circles but it does not work like that in digital electronics. The fact that Burson discrete opamps are used speaks for itself. These measure worse than most modern opamps....
BTW on the picture I see some NOS ROE electrolytic caps that are well known for failure. Very old stuff too.
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Thanks for reply.
You're right. I don made mesurment with oscilloscope 🙁 for now.
I measured the capacity of ROE capacitors and everyone had a larger capacity than writing them.
Wath is usually failure of ROE EK electrolytic caps?
You're right. I don made mesurment with oscilloscope 🙁 for now.
I measured the capacity of ROE capacitors and everyone had a larger capacity than writing them.
Wath is usually failure of ROE EK electrolytic caps?
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+1 though I would have been stronger, as the local decoupling capacitors for any digital IC ARE A CRITICAL PART OF THE POWER DELIVERY SYSTEM and to remove them is stupid... I would suggest you have a search round the internet and read some of the thousands of app notes and documents on decoupling capacitors....
Yeah it is a pity. I think many of us started by wild replacing capacitors in the analog era and it made some sense. These were no high speed digital circuits. Often it was old given away gear that either malfunctioned or was worn out. It was nice to bring such gear back to life and then start improving the circuit and replace electrolytic caps for film types etc. This is why I know that ROE bakelite caps as they failed so often that I replaced them as a standard. Dreadful stuff, probably because the case was cracking.
I have seen "modified" digital gear and comparing with an original one might be an unpleasant surprise. There is no better capacitor for decoupling fast digital circuits than a SMD cap (not necessarily ceramic in all cases) close to the pins with care taken for the current loop. Replacing SMD decoupling caps for TH ones with bent pins....it is so wrong on so many levels. Psychological pressure makes that the changes are always an improvement while common sense say otherwise. Even when done with care not all mods are beneficial. After modding a device to death sometimes ratio comes looking around the corner.
I have seen "modified" digital gear and comparing with an original one might be an unpleasant surprise. There is no better capacitor for decoupling fast digital circuits than a SMD cap (not necessarily ceramic in all cases) close to the pins with care taken for the current loop. Replacing SMD decoupling caps for TH ones with bent pins....it is so wrong on so many levels. Psychological pressure makes that the changes are always an improvement while common sense say otherwise. Even when done with care not all mods are beneficial. After modding a device to death sometimes ratio comes looking around the corner.
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