MLTL Enclosure for Fostex fe168sigma (old one)

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Thank you once more GM .I'll built them with MDF because everything else in my location is difficult to find or too expensive.
Regarding the stuffing material I have found polyester bating in rolls (1,5 meter length and 300gr/square meter density and 3cm thick) is it ok ? Because I dont want to mess with fiberglass.
 
Interestingly, the large ported box designed by Nagoaka has the same internal volume as GMs design, approx 1.6cf. Great minds think alike.

Attached is an older Brines design for the 168S that's about 1.8cf.

In my experiments, reducing the box volume for this driver to below 1cf really reduces the bass output and thins out the sound. The balancing act is critical with the Fostex 168s.

Interesting, I've not seen the book, but I learned from the pioneers and so did others, so for those of use who learned much of what we know pre-T/S, not too surprising that we are of similar minds.

BB's is shorter and has the driver higher with the vent at the bottom, so needs more damping, ergo to have a near enough same bass response Vs mine would need to be a bit larger.

Hornresp responses have theoretically 'perfect' responses [absolutely zero damping], so look a lot worse than what it would measure, but highlights the differences of a proper MLTL [light trace] Vs compromised to fit in a marketing niche, especially WRT [non] optimal driver offset.

Note too that HR doesn't allow vent offset, so a lot of the HF 'hash shown above ~400 Hz gets muted in reality:

GM
 

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  • Fostex FE168S in GM 60' Vs BB 40' 42 Hz MLTL.PNG
    Fostex FE168S in GM 60' Vs BB 40' 42 Hz MLTL.PNG
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Thank you once more GM .I'll built them with MDF because everything else in my location is difficult to find or too expensive.
Regarding the stuffing material I have found polyester bating in rolls (1,5 meter length and 300gr/square meter density and 3cm thick) is it ok ? Because I dont want to mess with fiberglass.

You're welcome! Looking forward to how they turn out.

Bummer, well we do what we got to do and long time now sympathetic to shrinking disposable income situations.

Hmm, me and metric aren't getting along, so all I'll say is that ~0.2 - 0.25 lbs/ft^3 of polyfil stuffing is sufficient for most folks that's built these 56"+ high cabs, so whatever that converts to determine if what you have will work or how much of it will be required. The main thing is not to over-damp as it defeats the point of such an alignment. If done by ear, then normally no more once its 'hollow' and/or 'ringing' sound is gone unless the bass is too 'strong'.

GM
 
According the 0.25 lbs/ft^3 we will need for this cabinet about (1.61ft^3) 0.402 lbs or 182 gr of polyester batting to line the three sides mentioned .With that in mind I plan to use a polyester sheet (provided in rolls of 3.75" thickness) and density of 0.44lbs/ft^2 or 200gr/1 m^2 that gives me 178gr of polyester or 0.392 lbs which I think it will get me in the ball park..
 
Another question born...
For this type of enclosure (thin and tall ) in order to adjust the volume of stuffing isn't more practical to stuff from the top plus some area bellow the driver than linning from top to bottom ?Or the simulations are more accurate with lining (I can think that a sheet of material is something more uniform than a ball of polyester placed uneven).
 
Another question born...
For this type of enclosure (thin and tall ) in order to adjust the volume of stuffing isn't more practical to stuff from the top plus some area bellow the driver than linning from top to bottom ?Or the simulations are more accurate with lining (I can think that a sheet of material is something more uniform than a ball of polyester placed uneven).

Tests done by the pioneers and now computer programs shows that uniform distribution along the pathlength works well, though to quell any serious under-damped 'ringing' at Fb, it should be added around/in the vent, so I automatically run it down to the vent; and starting by only lining the top, one side and back is often sufficient, though this being a 'FR' driver in such a narrow cab the other side needs some damping opposite the driver.

Another option that some manufacturers, DIYers have used is a hanging 'blanket' of wool/whatever works best, though this cab isn't large enough to do it properly.

GM
 
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