Thanks for that. Can’t remember who, but was told the crossovers don’t over heat as it’s the appearance of the board coating which discolours in proximity to the ceramic resistors. I note that the replacement boards Willys supply carry higher current capacity resistors. I have upgraded mine accordingly! Thank you for your info on power handling for the tweeter.
These are very much a second pair of speakers as I really love my 752 Freedoms. When I compared them many years ago I preferred them to the multi drive unit that were (and still) are so popular.
These are very much a second pair of speakers as I really love my 752 Freedoms. When I compared them many years ago I preferred them to the multi drive unit that were (and still) are so popular.
Hi
I have found a Tymphany which will need gluing into place. As I want to get polarity right - is the Tymphany 8Mm terminal +ve and on the 753 the blue is +be also!!
would be good to find out now Thanks
I have found a Tymphany which will need gluing into place. As I want to get polarity right - is the Tymphany 8Mm terminal +ve and on the 753 the blue is +be also!!
would be good to find out now Thanks
Maybe an image between old and new may help us.
Usually the larger terminal is +ve for most speaker chassis.
Can you find the manufacturers data sheet for your new driver to clarify? A search for it on the web should pull up some data sheet.
Quite often tweeters can be purposely connected out of phase, its all part of the overall design, so try to stick with the phasing of the original design.
Usually the larger terminal is +ve for most speaker chassis.
Can you find the manufacturers data sheet for your new driver to clarify? A search for it on the web should pull up some data sheet.
Quite often tweeters can be purposely connected out of phase, its all part of the overall design, so try to stick with the phasing of the original design.
