Does the Yamaha have any sort of digital output? If so, that would work; most of the recent ones do as far as I know. Otherwise, you will have to decide on what compromises you want to make or how much money you want to spend.
I'm very fortunate: my WAF depends totally on sound. Our living room is dominated by Beveridge Model 3s and ancillary equipment (including the computer), and we have Model 5s in another room. She did say that WAF would go way down if I bought a pair of Beveridge Model 2s in addition.
I'm very fortunate: my WAF depends totally on sound. Our living room is dominated by Beveridge Model 3s and ancillary equipment (including the computer), and we have Model 5s in another room. She did say that WAF would go way down if I bought a pair of Beveridge Model 2s in addition.
Wow there's a lot going on here.
1. You absolutely do not need a cap on a tweeter using an active X/O unless it's a ribbon.
2. No. It's not possible to use the MiniDSP with ANYTHING that doesn't have a pre-out.
3. The only purpose of the .5 driver in a 2.5 way is for baffle step compensation. That's what the DSP is for. You are needlessly over-complicating things.
thank you I was hoping there was a way but I think even the digital out would not have volume control. I would have to look for a newer receiver with a pre out. I do have a primare av processor that I use as my pre in the basement. but it still has component video maybe I can figure out something. I do have 4 class d tda 7492 50w amps maybe for the tweeters. I thought in the minidsp manual they recommend putting a cap on the tweeter just in case for protection . thank you for the information I have a lot to think about. thanks again.
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I like to convert DSP usage back into passive, for portions of a system where I have decided that I am done making variations.
Keep an eye on Ebay, there are a ton of AV receivers out there that have left and right pre outs and pre ins for all channels. That's the cheapest and easiest way to get into this. That's what I started out with. I had an old Yamaha that I ran the pre outs to the MiniDSP and the low pass back to the receiver's main L&R in and the high pass back to the receiver's L&R surround pre in's. Boom. All active 2 way.
I'm no class D fan but if you have 4 on hand all you really need is a preamp. Unless I'm missing something. Unless you're worried about video switching. Can't help you there. I don't run my video through anything. Source direct to display.
If you don't need video switching, then you are all set. The minidsp is your preamp. If you have more digital sources than it accepts, get a toslink switch box. The remote volume control on the minidsp 2x4hd works perfectly for me. Send the minidsp outputs to the receiver and any other amp input. In this setup you will never touch the receiver volume or source selection, it will just be an amp.
great thank you for the information I will work on trying to figure out something that will work and be easy to use. a receiver with a preout/ main in with the added amp seems like the most likely way to do it. the ability to easily switch from turntable to cd to tv to tuner to blueray to laptop is pretty important the receiver makes short work of that. I have to learn more about using the minidsp as a preamp frankly video and source switching is pretty convenient.
Has anyone tried this Dayton Audio DSP-408, 4x8 DSP Digital Signal Processor for Home and Car Audio.
We have decided to put a full blown home theater in the basement so will need a center and 2 rear channels. I would like to use the mag drivers even if they are corroded for the rears I can not imagine the corrosion will make much difference for surround channel. . thinking of the 27 tdc for a tweeter for the center and surrounds. The mags have a bad breakup and I would prefer not to buy the crossover parts again and would like to go the dsp route after all the information everyone on the thead has shared. thank you
We have decided to put a full blown home theater in the basement so will need a center and 2 rear channels. I would like to use the mag drivers even if they are corroded for the rears I can not imagine the corrosion will make much difference for surround channel. . thinking of the 27 tdc for a tweeter for the center and surrounds. The mags have a bad breakup and I would prefer not to buy the crossover parts again and would like to go the dsp route after all the information everyone on the thead has shared. thank you
I'm getting ready to bi-amp my speakers, have a miniDSP on the way. I just want to be sure I don't need a capacitor on my horn. I have Altec A5's with a 288B. Thanks
If you are 100% sure your amps don't ever, ever do DC, skip the cap. And learn the hard way. Otherwise throw in a 22µF MKP. You'll likely going to measure the output anyway, so compensating the effect of the series cap is a piece of cake. Don't be afraid, you won't notice any difference in sound quality.
I wouldn't be so sure about that. Okay, sound quality may not be a good word for it, but it affects the character of the audible sound. Different caps do sound different IME, even if they have the same frequency response.
The cap is in series on the + or - wire.
You can use whatever value cap you want as long as you can compensate the effect it causes in the frequency response or make the cap a part of the desired total filtering.
If you start the measurements with the cap in place, you just need to program the DSP to your desired response, that's all.
You can use whatever value cap you want as long as you can compensate the effect it causes in the frequency response or make the cap a part of the desired total filtering.
If you start the measurements with the cap in place, you just need to program the DSP to your desired response, that's all.
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I have one machine in front of me that is created with 3dacs probabaly with electronic xovers and so on
Please be nice to me i am completely unfamliar with such a device
got a few questions
1) if machine is set up to operate with the R/C that also ,means that the encoder in the fron cannot control volume ?
2) it seems that there must be some software that you are able to control the unit set levels and xover points but i cannot find it somewhere to download it
there is some compalins about driver not nstalling in window
3 ) In this set up is t possible to disable xovers and use it as a simple dac ?
thank you
Please be nice to me i am completely unfamliar with such a device
got a few questions
1) if machine is set up to operate with the R/C that also ,means that the encoder in the fron cannot control volume ?
2) it seems that there must be some software that you are able to control the unit set levels and xover points but i cannot find it somewhere to download it
there is some compalins about driver not nstalling in window
3 ) In this set up is t possible to disable xovers and use it as a simple dac ?
thank you
New topic maybe? And any info on brand, type, photo’s etc are required. But in general the DAC output should be identifiable somewhere on the circuit.