my brother is started to build the spawn family Mikasa for fostex new fe126en
drivers.
is there any good tips for it? we have all parts done and soon we will start put it together
http://www.dvdplaza.fi/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12324&d=1281285812
drivers.
is there any good tips for it? we have all parts done and soon we will start put it together
http://www.dvdplaza.fi/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12324&d=1281285812
cut some spacer blocks the width of each fold section, buy another couple of dozen f-clamps, and take your time 😀
Keep in mind guys that these cabinets were designed for a defunct range of units, and are now in the obsolescent stage of their life.
Officially anyway. It will be very interesting to get feedback on the new units in the old boxes. The small sample of new that have been measured, althou they are slightly different on average, fall within the statistical spread of the old.
And Ed is using the new one with no regard to dufferences (althou he seems to puffing them up)
dave
HI, some more pics and stuff.
My older brother start this thread and i tought to continue, there are some more pics my mikasa projeckt.
i cant found anywhere pics of inside of the mikasa so i wonder should i but there some stuffing, and the corners 90 decrees or some roundings...??
i have been pleased all the comments thank you guys.
My older brother start this thread and i tought to continue, there are some more pics my mikasa projeckt.
i cant found anywhere pics of inside of the mikasa so i wonder should i but there some stuffing, and the corners 90 decrees or some roundings...??
i have been pleased all the comments thank you guys.
Attachments
With a small baffle like that it may be advantageous to make it removable in order to
swap out other drivers. I've done that with the BIB. So if there is an upgrade path, mods can be done in the future.
Looks like nice work.
swap out other drivers. I've done that with the BIB. So if there is an upgrade path, mods can be done in the future.
Looks like nice work.
All the stuffing that should be needed should go into the air cavity. You don't want to round the corners... they act as low pass filters.
dave
Mikasa is a great cabinet design.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/104879-mikasa-next-2.html
gychang
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/104879-mikasa-next-2.html
gychang
sounds better what i expected!
needs some final adjustments still...
(45 kilograms = 99.208018 pounds)
needs some final adjustments still...
(45 kilograms = 99.208018 pounds)
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These are splendid.
Could you comment on any lining or stuffing that you did or did not do.
For instance did you use any felt to line any of the internal baffles?
Did you use any stuffing in the center chamber?
I am going to build a pair in the coming month and was hopeful of gaining from your experience.
Bruce
Could you comment on any lining or stuffing that you did or did not do.
For instance did you use any felt to line any of the internal baffles?
Did you use any stuffing in the center chamber?
I am going to build a pair in the coming month and was hopeful of gaining from your experience.
Bruce
I should have seen this advise before just posting a question to the builder. But then he should have some recent experience.
So, Dave, I understand that the corners of the baffles should be clean and square to do their job. But does the carcass itself, the panels - side and back - need any felt lining. Or is it just stuff to taste in the main chamber as described?
I put all the stuffing behind the element, directly behind on the tube to about 15-20cm on the way, reducing the pipe size slightly. its lowers that mid bass which is a slightly too loud.
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