I am choosing a midrange for a 3 way rebuild project. The mid has a 2.5L sealed enclosure all to itself within the cabinet that cannot be changed. I have narrowed it down to a choice of 3 drivers:
seas MU10RB-SL
scanspeak 10F/4424G00
SB satori MR13P-4
running the specs through a box volume calculator the seas and satori look fine, flat down to 200Hz but the scanspeak starts rolling off from 1kHz and is 2db down at 200Hz. I was a little surprised to see this as the seas and satori are such different drivers but model so similar, and the scanspeak is quite like the seas in construction and size, yet appears to behave differently.
I'm intending to cross over the mid/bass at about 400-600Hz so this just might not make any difference at all, but i'm wondering if this rolloff signifies something else going on that might make the scanspeak an unsuitable choice.
if it matters, mid/tweeter crossover will be about 4kHz
seas MU10RB-SL
scanspeak 10F/4424G00
SB satori MR13P-4
running the specs through a box volume calculator the seas and satori look fine, flat down to 200Hz but the scanspeak starts rolling off from 1kHz and is 2db down at 200Hz. I was a little surprised to see this as the seas and satori are such different drivers but model so similar, and the scanspeak is quite like the seas in construction and size, yet appears to behave differently.
I'm intending to cross over the mid/bass at about 400-600Hz so this just might not make any difference at all, but i'm wondering if this rolloff signifies something else going on that might make the scanspeak an unsuitable choice.
if it matters, mid/tweeter crossover will be about 4kHz
Have you considered an open box dipole using a GRS mid/tweeter PT 6825 (diploe)?
I have just been listening to them as replacements for worn out electrostatic panels in ML Aeons and am impressed by what I've heard over the last week.
They operate in the Aeons from 500hz to 20Khz so I didn't fit a tweeter. You might need two per channel if you like very loud music.
I have just been listening to them as replacements for worn out electrostatic panels in ML Aeons and am impressed by what I've heard over the last week.
They operate in the Aeons from 500hz to 20Khz so I didn't fit a tweeter. You might need two per channel if you like very loud music.
@batteryman Well, that would solve my problem of worrying about 2db drop... by giving me an 8db wobble to worry about. Also, it doesn't fit in the cabinets I'm rebuilding, which aren't of open baffle design.
looks good appart from that though! 🤣
looks good appart from that though! 🤣
So I assume that the sensitivity of all 3 drivers will work in your restoration, yes?
For the lower crossover, what are your current thoughts about frequency and slope? Can you tell us about the woofer and tweeter?
j.
For the lower crossover, what are your current thoughts about frequency and slope? Can you tell us about the woofer and tweeter?
j.
@hifijim
The seas is 5db low, which is annoying as it is the cheapest of the lot, the other 2 are about right for the tweeter at around 90db, which will likely be a morel st1048. probably the morel is a bit overkill for this, but it's what i have and it's not playing nicley in the 8*1 2-way so might as well reuse it here. Woofer is the original wharfedale 3014 that came in the cabinets (dovedale IIIA, there is a separate thread about my refoaming them) unsure of sensitivity of that one but...
I plan to cross over the mid/woofer digitally with a minidsp so will have ultimate control of all the parameters there and can adjust the woofer up or down to match with no detrimental effects. i'll probably start about 400Hz 24db/octave and see how it sounds.
The seas is 5db low, which is annoying as it is the cheapest of the lot, the other 2 are about right for the tweeter at around 90db, which will likely be a morel st1048. probably the morel is a bit overkill for this, but it's what i have and it's not playing nicley in the 8*1 2-way so might as well reuse it here. Woofer is the original wharfedale 3014 that came in the cabinets (dovedale IIIA, there is a separate thread about my refoaming them) unsure of sensitivity of that one but...
I plan to cross over the mid/woofer digitally with a minidsp so will have ultimate control of all the parameters there and can adjust the woofer up or down to match with no detrimental effects. i'll probably start about 400Hz 24db/octave and see how it sounds.
I have never used the scanspeak 10F, but everyone seems to think very highly of it. It performs better than its $120 price tag would imply.
j.
j.
This is due to having very different upper mass corners (Fhm = 2*Fs/Qts) where its acceleration BW, T/S theory peters out to the driver's mass controlled/flat BW, which is clearly visible in the FR responses once you know where to look 😉.
@GM Right! yes, i see. I had wondered at what point these sort of box simulations stop being relevant at all. i'm certainly no expert at spotting features in these graphs though beyond 'hump' and 'dip'
@Moondog55 The original xovers were either 1st or 2nd order depending on what version of the speakers you got, later models generally having the more complex crossover.
@Moondog55 The original xovers were either 1st or 2nd order depending on what version of the speakers you got, later models generally having the more complex crossover.