Even through the vent opening? Should I see the brace if I look in the vent slot?
OK, now it is looking like I cut the baffles down so they only extend to the center line of the driver opening, then install the holey brace leaving solid areas around the baffles, then install the rest of the interior baffles. I will put in the damping before the holey brace is installed.
OK, now it is looking like I cut the baffles down so they only extend to the center line of the driver opening, then install the holey brace leaving solid areas around the baffles, then install the rest of the interior baffles. I will put in the damping before the holey brace is installed.
You should see the brace, but it should have a bit of an angle on that corner so that the vent is not obstructed.
Your description of cutting own the baffle makes little sense. the holey braces are best installed with the side last on. That allows you to get the fit of the holey brace right with the driver temporarily installed.
dave
Your description of cutting own the baffle makes little sense. the holey braces are best installed with the side last on. That allows you to get the fit of the holey brace right with the driver temporarily installed.
dave
Dave,
Check out this PDF. I was originally thinking of doing the brace as outlined in yellow, but wanted to check first since the brace info is confusing on the drawing. It could have been installed after the internal vent panels were installed full width of the cabinet.
A full brace would be as shown in red. It will be much easier to install the full brace as indicated on the PDF. I can do the full brace, but was wondering about the area around the slot in the back. I could leave it open through the slot area.
Check out this PDF. I was originally thinking of doing the brace as outlined in yellow, but wanted to check first since the brace info is confusing on the drawing. It could have been installed after the internal vent panels were installed full width of the cabinet.
A full brace would be as shown in red. It will be much easier to install the full brace as indicated on the PDF. I can do the full brace, but was wondering about the area around the slot in the back. I could leave it open through the slot area.
Looking at the drawing again, you won’t be able to see the brace looking into the vent.
I still don’t understand your assembly.
I would assemble all the pieces except one side, and the brace. insert the brace around the assembly, detail the driver fit, then add damping and seal up the last side. If easier (probably would be) the brace can be 2 pieces. An “L” shaped bit with the driver cutout and a rectangle that fits into the back section below the vent shelf.
dave
I still don’t understand your assembly.
I would assemble all the pieces except one side, and the brace. insert the brace around the assembly, detail the driver fit, then add damping and seal up the last side. If easier (probably would be) the brace can be 2 pieces. An “L” shaped bit with the driver cutout and a rectangle that fits into the back section below the vent shelf.
dave
So we want to have the driver mounted flush with the front baffle, right? On the 12pw I measured about a 1/2” in thickness, so on a 3/4” baffle it would only be supported by 1/4” of wood, is that sufficient?
On my A10.3 it came with another bracket, which you recommend not using. The 12pw mounting flange appears to be all one piece.
On my A10.3 it came with another bracket, which you recommend not using. The 12pw mounting flange appears to be all one piece.
The A12pw has the decorative bezel cover expoxied down. The A10 has it separate. We do not use them.
Bezel is 9.3mm before gasket. We have had no issues with rebated these into 18mm baffles. The rebate on the midTweeter is more critical.
dave
Bezel is 9.3mm before gasket. We have had no issues with rebated these into 18mm baffles. The rebate on the midTweeter is more critical.
dave