I already purchased 2 amps (2 x NU1000DSP) to drive the front channels.
Looks like that amp can do DSP crossover work - which can make this a LOT easier.
This means you have 2 channels for each loudspeaker: as-in 1 for tweeter and 1 for the midrange-midbass.
Given that you are considering this for HT I would look to either:
1. coaxial, or
2. small fullrange as tweeter (with good high-freq. off-axis response) that can extend down low enough in *freq. for crossing-over to your midbass (or more likely midbass's).
*perhaps as low as 400 Hz (..800 Hz if you needed higher power handling).
#2 would be easier and would allow for higher power-handling because you would likely do an "MTM" (as in Midbass/Tweeter/Midbass).
This would be a very good choice (..and don't let the low cost fool you into thinking it isn't excellent):
Peerless TA6FD00-04 2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
From there you could add-on a couple of midbass drivers. At a higher cost could be the one's you've already selected. If you want to spend less there are the Anarchy 5.5" drivers.. or even there 7" drivers.
Anarchy 7 inch woofer by Denovo Audio
IF you wanted to keep with the 5.5" size then I'd suggest 2 8 ohm's wired in parallel for a net 4 ohm average:
Anarchy 5.5 inch 8 ohm woofer by Denovo Audio
..along with subwoofers to "fill-out" the low-end, that should work well.
....talking about the Anarchy speakers that are hard to get in Europe...
But the aforementioned Tangband W6 is. With virtually the same Vd I guess.
Now if I would go partially active on a 3-way design, I'd cross passive between mid and high. Cheaper caps and coils and better power distribution with comparable amp output.
But the aforementioned Tangband W6 is. With virtually the same Vd I guess.
Now if I would go partially active on a 3-way design, I'd cross passive between mid and high. Cheaper caps and coils and better power distribution with comparable amp output.