no, on axis, (does not matter if its 1m or less, less is better as it eliminates room from equation), and then you move mic to 10degrees, 20degrees, 30degrees and 40 degrees of axis, maintaining the distance
I found a ring of plumber's goop (doesn't have the scariest of the carcinogens of the other goops) on the cone and a 1/2" circle on the dustcap helped with my aluminum peerless drivers. I keep it away from the surround. it looks like snot, but whatever. Could Probably be removed with careful use of lighter fluid.
No images. It just looks like snot smeared on a black aluminum cone in a circle with a dot on the dustcap.
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Indeed! Scaling off the 11MS's pdf, the VC diameter is ~ 1.245" = ~3465 Hz where its pretty well damped DC joint peak is on the measured plot, so from here - up is all breakup modes concentrated at/on the DC, which IME can be tuned to 'taste' by suspending a circular filter in front of it unless one wants to do the tedious dots/dashes scheme.
All n' all, a pretty good DC = super tweeter design that can be easily EQ'd acoustically or electronically active, passive.
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Update, doesn't really come off with lighter fluid. I wanted to try it just on the dustcap per GM, but no big deal. GM, is that frequency a third of the frequency of the wavelength of the voice coil diameter? that the dustcap starts breaking up?
Well, at that point I was thinking that while still attached to the diaphragm it was acting as a point source on a lossy baffle and as a super tweeter, so guess whichever way one wants to view it.
I'd say it's worth running some frequency sweeps by ear and listening out for big peaks. You can then try to eq them down a bit to see if that helps.
It's not a very high tech solution but you can do it quite quickly if using a PC as a source. I'd only suggest eqing down big peaks to start. Don't eq anything up
It's not a very high tech solution but you can do it quite quickly if using a PC as a source. I'd only suggest eqing down big peaks to start. Don't eq anything up
11ms has a peaky upper treble, you can see that much in the datasheet.
They can sound sharp or 'metallic' I guess but for some reason I don't find the 11ms itself to be harsh, more so that the mids are a bit recessed.
Box and room play into it of course, a peak has more energy to excite, 11ms wide dispersion makes it more sensitive to the room.
The DAC you use also makes a surprising difference, 11ms can be crazy resolving, that includes flaws.
If the treble does bother you maybe add a small tweeter? 11ms is an ideal candidate for TAW (or whatever acronym they're using for this).
Tweeters are pretty inexpensive, a small one should just drop in to your existing enclosure conveniently enough, you can (and should) use a 1st order crossover, good quality crossover parts will be a lot less expensive in the higher frequency range, .
I'm happy with full range performance so haven't bothered trying this (yet).
They can sound sharp or 'metallic' I guess but for some reason I don't find the 11ms itself to be harsh, more so that the mids are a bit recessed.
Box and room play into it of course, a peak has more energy to excite, 11ms wide dispersion makes it more sensitive to the room.
The DAC you use also makes a surprising difference, 11ms can be crazy resolving, that includes flaws.
If the treble does bother you maybe add a small tweeter? 11ms is an ideal candidate for TAW (or whatever acronym they're using for this).
Tweeters are pretty inexpensive, a small one should just drop in to your existing enclosure conveniently enough, you can (and should) use a 1st order crossover, good quality crossover parts will be a lot less expensive in the higher frequency range, .
I'm happy with full range performance so haven't bothered trying this (yet).
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If it's that that bothers you, you can also just add a LCR filter to remove the peak, that is a cap, a inductor and a resistor (in series or parallel, both work) that create a notch filter. To do that you need too measure the driver and use software like xsim or virtuixcad to simulate the filter to find the right values for this.
I have added a notch filter.
Sound better now.
R=10ohm You can change to what you think is best of your ears.
C=1.5uF
I =0.2mH and 0.2ohm
Regards Leif
Sound better now.
R=10ohm You can change to what you think is best of your ears.
C=1.5uF
I =0.2mH and 0.2ohm
Regards Leif