This is specifically for those using or intending to use MH based lighting for their diy pj. Check this link out as it serves as a great guide- http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/s/b/sbj4/aquarium/mh/mhlighting.html
curtesy to original author(s)
curtesy to original author(s)
COLOR TEMP.
The color temperature is very important. Ideally, we want 4000k (kelvins). Check out this link on color temp- http://www.venturelighting.com/TechCenter/Lamps/color_of_light.htm
The color temperature is very important. Ideally, we want 4000k (kelvins). Check out this link on color temp- http://www.venturelighting.com/TechCenter/Lamps/color_of_light.htm
Re: COLOR TEMP.
Great links. But I thought 5600k daylight was the ideal color temp.
Sweetrobot said:
Great links. But I thought 5600k daylight was the ideal color temp.
Useful or Not??
For those of you like me using 400w-100w Metal Halide bulbs, most of the time there is writing of some kind on the bulb. I have found that the positioning of the writing is usually perfect for creating shadows when using a condensor lens. I just tried to remove the writing with Nail Polish remover and it worked like a charm. One less thing between my LCD and the light source, a minor thing mind you but an annoying one. I hope this tidbit helps some poeple out there....🙂
For those of you like me using 400w-100w Metal Halide bulbs, most of the time there is writing of some kind on the bulb. I have found that the positioning of the writing is usually perfect for creating shadows when using a condensor lens. I just tried to remove the writing with Nail Polish remover and it worked like a charm. One less thing between my LCD and the light source, a minor thing mind you but an annoying one. I hope this tidbit helps some poeple out there....🙂
4000K is the best because it resembles what majority of ppl perceive as white. daylight is slightly more at 5000K+ and tends to have a bluish tinge- notice the bulbs at some gas stations...
Re: Useful or Not??
How exaclty is your cond. lens positioned- so it focuses the light right onto the fresnel center, or is the fresnel itself the condenser? I'm kinda behind on the optics... thanks for sharing.
bitbyter said:
How exaclty is your cond. lens positioned- so it focuses the light right onto the fresnel center, or is the fresnel itself the condenser? I'm kinda behind on the optics... thanks for sharing.
MH Wiring
This site has a simplistic and extremely useful information on how to wire up your MH and any other HID bulb if you have purchased the components separately-
http://home.earthlink.net/~hilldfe21/plans/ballast/ballast.html
always be careful with open circuits- especially around the ballast. don't leave plugged near kids!
This site has a simplistic and extremely useful information on how to wire up your MH and any other HID bulb if you have purchased the components separately-
http://home.earthlink.net/~hilldfe21/plans/ballast/ballast.html
always be careful with open circuits- especially around the ballast. don't leave plugged near kids!
Hopefully after I get some of the Brightness Enhancing Film from 3M it will be:
MH: Lamp>>>Condensor Lens>>>BEF>>>Fresnel>>>LCD>>>Projection Lens.
MH: Lamp>>>Condensor Lens>>>BEF>>>Fresnel>>>LCD>>>Projection Lens.
ohp method failed....
🙁
i tried doing the OHP method, using my 400w MH bulb, but it is too difficult concentrating all the light through the fresnel so it was way too dim, even at night. I did modify the top of the ohp so as to reveal the entire fresnel on the horizontal- i bought a damn dremel to do that, i wanted one anyway. i'm gonna make my own box for projection- i intended the ohp for testing only. the bulb definitely emits enough light, i just have to focus it better. bitbyter, are you using a MH setup? is it ohp, or other, fill me in if u can. ialso, f you could please let me know how your image looks- even show a pic if u've got a camera... thx.
🙁
i tried doing the OHP method, using my 400w MH bulb, but it is too difficult concentrating all the light through the fresnel so it was way too dim, even at night. I did modify the top of the ohp so as to reveal the entire fresnel on the horizontal- i bought a damn dremel to do that, i wanted one anyway. i'm gonna make my own box for projection- i intended the ohp for testing only. the bulb definitely emits enough light, i just have to focus it better. bitbyter, are you using a MH setup? is it ohp, or other, fill me in if u can. ialso, f you could please let me know how your image looks- even show a pic if u've got a camera... thx.
I am using a 400w metal halide lamp like you have but am not satisfied with the results as of yet. The problems is dark Scenes in movies/tv. I just can't see what's going on to well. I have yet to determine if it's that my contrast isn't good enough on my panel (i hope not) being only 100:1 or I'm losing to much light in my design. I am hoping to get some samples of BEF from 3M but if that doesn't solve the problem then I'll have to look for a new lcd (most likely from a monitor) when I have some more cash.
Re: ohp method failed....
damn! that sux.. i was looking forward to your success....
hey i would like to know more details of your project ..can you IM me?
Thanks
Sweetrobot said:
damn! that sux.. i was looking forward to your success....
hey i would like to know more details of your project ..can you IM me?
Thanks
Not giving up....
I barely tried this method, and had light leaking all over the palce, which meant the room was far from complete darkness, and not all going through the lcd. I had a really cheap rig, just for testing purposes- I used damn foil to seal light here and there, lol. Of what i did see, i had an image of about 100-115", and you could not see the screen door effect unless you were 3' or closer, which is damn good. I have only given up on retrofiting the halide to the ohp, though it fits perfectly within the projector. The problem is focusing the light to the fresnel, through the mirror, which would require some mad calculating and tweaking. I would need a big condensor lens or reflector to get all the light from my mh to the fresnel, which would not fit inside the ohp, though i could cut some more useless stuff. come to think of it, i could, i just need more patience, and soem reflector material. Had I an OHP with a built in condensor lens, then I would have bought the double-connector halides. At least that way, i'd be able to capture the light. Unfortunately my type of ohp doesn't have a condensor lens, and instead two bulbs with reflectors in order to focus the light onto the center of the fresnel. i am definitely moving ahead- i am gonna give the ohp a proper shot, before doing the diy box pj. I will then have enough room to try out the "submerged light source in light guide" or reflector.
I actually bought a nice dremel pro kit to enlarge the stage on the ohp- it looks great- lets hope it doesn'tgo to waste. i wonder why they made the stage smaller than they had to.- you can fit a 12"x12" sheet on it now.
Neg. Design, i'll have my number when i get home.
I barely tried this method, and had light leaking all over the palce, which meant the room was far from complete darkness, and not all going through the lcd. I had a really cheap rig, just for testing purposes- I used damn foil to seal light here and there, lol. Of what i did see, i had an image of about 100-115", and you could not see the screen door effect unless you were 3' or closer, which is damn good. I have only given up on retrofiting the halide to the ohp, though it fits perfectly within the projector. The problem is focusing the light to the fresnel, through the mirror, which would require some mad calculating and tweaking. I would need a big condensor lens or reflector to get all the light from my mh to the fresnel, which would not fit inside the ohp, though i could cut some more useless stuff. come to think of it, i could, i just need more patience, and soem reflector material. Had I an OHP with a built in condensor lens, then I would have bought the double-connector halides. At least that way, i'd be able to capture the light. Unfortunately my type of ohp doesn't have a condensor lens, and instead two bulbs with reflectors in order to focus the light onto the center of the fresnel. i am definitely moving ahead- i am gonna give the ohp a proper shot, before doing the diy box pj. I will then have enough room to try out the "submerged light source in light guide" or reflector.
I actually bought a nice dremel pro kit to enlarge the stage on the ohp- it looks great- lets hope it doesn'tgo to waste. i wonder why they made the stage smaller than they had to.- you can fit a 12"x12" sheet on it now.
Neg. Design, i'll have my number when i get home.
Pheew!!
🙁I've gotten over my borken LCD,took me a few days, and thinking OHP again, dunno why. I found the perfect ohp- it already has a built in Metal halide bulb at 575W!! It's a doule connection lamp, with 1000 hour life- plus its bulbous- point source- here's the link to bulb specs- http://www.osram.com.tw/pdf/service_corner/technicalinfo/575WGSQe.pdf
This ohp outputs 7300 lumens with this bulb. Lets say I use a new lcd which i will have to buy again
, and ususally about 10% of that light makes it through- well, this would leave me at 730 lumens!!! That's pretty damn sweet, and on top of that, the optics would already be perfect, so will the light distribution!! This almost kills the DIY part of the whole project, but damn, that's a perfect solution. The stage is above average, at 11.5"x11.5"- so only about an inch would be cropped from a 15" diagonal lcd. I am hoping to get an order for one of thse soon. i just can't wait. only thing i'll have to do myself s take apart the lcd and slap it on the stage. ofcourse, that ain't easy if the ribbon's gotta be extended, but i think i can manage.... wish me luck. 🙂
🙁I've gotten over my borken LCD,took me a few days, and thinking OHP again, dunno why. I found the perfect ohp- it already has a built in Metal halide bulb at 575W!! It's a doule connection lamp, with 1000 hour life- plus its bulbous- point source- here's the link to bulb specs- http://www.osram.com.tw/pdf/service_corner/technicalinfo/575WGSQe.pdf
This ohp outputs 7300 lumens with this bulb. Lets say I use a new lcd which i will have to buy again
, and ususally about 10% of that light makes it through- well, this would leave me at 730 lumens!!! That's pretty damn sweet, and on top of that, the optics would already be perfect, so will the light distribution!! This almost kills the DIY part of the whole project, but damn, that's a perfect solution. The stage is above average, at 11.5"x11.5"- so only about an inch would be cropped from a 15" diagonal lcd. I am hoping to get an order for one of thse soon. i just can't wait. only thing i'll have to do myself s take apart the lcd and slap it on the stage. ofcourse, that ain't easy if the ribbon's gotta be extended, but i think i can manage.... wish me luck. 🙂
do you know how much those bulbs cost? they cost nearly the same as my Sharp 1200 (only 1-2 dollar differece)
these HMI bulbs cost more than a 1000 watt bulbs and ballast and last HALF as long....but as long you like it 😀 😀 lol
is this OHP the ELMO a305sd? i hope your getting a good price for it i see them all the time for 200+
Good luck
Jimmy
these HMI bulbs cost more than a 1000 watt bulbs and ballast and last HALF as long....but as long you like it 😀 😀 lol
is this OHP the ELMO a305sd? i hope your getting a good price for it i see them all the time for 200+
Good luck
Jimmy
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