Hello, I do have the unit open. It looks like the bottom is riveted like the tube connections but the cans don't readily come out. They seem to be connected to the mounting plates. I read somewhere about twist locks but there are multiple wires connected on the bottom side. Maybe I'm not pulling hard enough.
This is what the connections look like from the bottom.
It's best if you get some new bakelite mountings for the can, and just drill out the rivets, after unsoldering the wires.
I heat the tabs up, extract as much solder as possible, then flatten and straighten them with pliers.
Heat the terminals, use X-acto knife to unfold the leads wrapped around them, remove leads. You can heat the tabs as you twist and pull on the can shell, and it will come off neatly with very little damage to the phenolic insulator.
Taking a photo before you R&R is a good record of the wiring. Good luck!
Heat the terminals, use X-acto knife to unfold the leads wrapped around them, remove leads. You can heat the tabs as you twist and pull on the can shell, and it will come off neatly with very little damage to the phenolic insulator.
Taking a photo before you R&R is a good record of the wiring. Good luck!
I am recapping a Bogen AP 35 amp and want to know if the 2 metal housed capacitors
in the photo need to be replaced. If they do, how do I remove them?
Here are some replacement mounting plates. https://www.rfparts.com/capacitors/capacitors-electrolytic/capacitors-twistmount.html
Another method if you don't need to re-use the old cap is to twist the ground lug(s) in a L/R circular motion with a plier 5 to 10 times until it breaks and then the cap will free itself easily. Getting the ground lugs perfectly flat, straight and clean is not easy, especially if they were soldered before and there's allways the risk to break the phenolic insulator if you use too much force when pulling the cap out. It's better and safer to break off the lugs.
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