Mean 12" TC based subwoofer. Thoughts for HT use?

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#21
duanebrow said:
I just did a model with of a TL in Hornresp. f3 ~ 21 hz Total box size 2.4 cf. I think you would need to mount it "butt up", as the box is that small.

Basic Details:
S1= 350 sq cm (this is the closed end)
S3= 150 sq mm (open end)
Total length= 282 cm
Sub goes as close to the closed end as you can get.
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I'm intrigued with the idea of T-line, are you sure 150 sq mm? that's like the size of a nickel or so right?

Moonfly said:
Footprint will still be the same because your cabinet still needs to be wide enough and tall enough for an 18 inch basket, and you will need a little clearance behind the pr for the drivers motor. This is the way I would go with a pr design though. Whether you need a HPF or not will really boil down to how low you can get your tune. For modern HT use, if your tuned higher than 15hz and listen at anything like moderate levels or more, you'll probably be best to implement a HPF.

Variable tuning with a pr is really just about altering the wieght of the pr. Some companies produce pr's that have a threaded bar in the center onto which a set of washers can be placed and bolted into position. If you measure your added mass then you can marry a specific weight to a specific tune once you measure the subs response. More weight results in a lower tune, but is more likely to push the pr to its excursion limits, so your looking for a balance.
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Threaded rod or bolt was what I was thinking, though what to use for weights? Like I said, I'll have to look around. Quick and dirty I could just glue some large deep sea fishing weights around the cone at regular intervals,, or use lead flashing in similar fashion. My 18" basket isn't terribly deep provided I don't have a lot sticking out the back so I think if I had enough footprint to fire the 12" out one side, the 18" out another I could load it into a corner with passive and active driver loading into a wall. Footprint would be say 14 X 20 inches which is a slight space saving over a 20X20 I'd need to fire PR down.. I'm sure it would be more effective, but cosmetically I'd love to have the active driver up and the PR down. Perhaps even polish up the motor and inverse mount the active driver.
 
#22
Hi hispls,

Post #21: "...cosmetically I'd love to have the active driver up and the PR down. Perhaps even polish up the motor and inverse mount the active driver."

Mounting the active driver with the magnet down below the box (or up?), and using two 12" PRs left and right to give you a smaller footprint would be another interesting way of building this.

Regards,
 
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